fuel hose connections

[bloodknock]

I am just about to connect the main fuel line to the fuel tank. All is original, Plastic fuel line and all. Can someone please tell me the method for joining the plastic hose to the tank fuel tight? I want to keep it original. It looks like it was originally just a rubber hose connector, but how was it sealed?
Plus, i'm thinking of putting some closed cell foam under the tank for padding, its a new tank, the old one was corroded badly underneath. I thought this foam would not absorb moisture, and if I coat the underside of the tank liberally with waxoyle it might do the trick?
Thanks
Bob

[Galwaylotus]

Water will pool on closed cell foam as well as if it isn't there. Sealing the tank surface seems a good idea but the foam is unlikely to do what you want.

[peterexpart]

There is a large hole in the boot floor under the Tank where the Drain Plug is located this is at the lowest point of the boot floor, so providing you do not put anything absorbent under the Tank any water ingress will drain away

[rgh0]

I spaced the tank off the fibreglass with rubber washers at the 3 bolts that locate it and i also sealed these washers where they contacted the tank and the bolt holes with silicone and put a large rubber sealing grommet in the hole under the drain plug. This kept the boot and the tank normally dry and enabled any water to that did get in to be easily drained without being trapped between the floor and the tank

cheers
Rohan

[AHM]

I have done as Rohan describes.

The Tank will sweat, the boot will leak. If you put foam between the two water will get in, but it won't get out. That is not good for the glass or the tank.

My S4 had a compression fitting with olives - the tank on ebay at the moment has the same fitting.

I didn't replace the fitting - I added a disposable fuel filter which lies on its side at the front of the tank. connected by two 'pigs tails' of rubber hose and clamps. Dirty fuel has caused me a blocked fuel pump and 2 breakdowns over the years. I just spent too much time unblocking the cross drillings in the carbs..... fuel filters are a pound each.

It is the only mod. I currently have on the S3 (+ve earth, Dynamo, Mechanical fan) I will add Hazard warning light for the same reason, and same experience, which I do not wish to repeat!

[john.p.clegg]

You've started on the slippery slope,next you'll be telling us that you've got a Zetec engine lined up for fitting...

John

[AHM]

Thinking about it I'm half way down the slippery slope - I also installed electronic ignition... oh and the previous owner added an ammeter when it was new.

can I get away with radial tyres?

[rgh0]

.

My S4 had a compression fitting with olives - the tank on ebay at the moment has the same fitting.

I didn't replace the fitting - I added a disposable fuel filter which lies on its side at the front of the tank. connected by two 'pigs tails' of rubber hose and clamps.

My original S4 tank also had a compression fitting for connecting the nylon fuel line to the tank steel tube similar to the compression fitting into the mechanical fuel pump at the other end
However the parts manual shows a rubber hose connection the nylon fuel line to the steel tube coming out of the tank ??

Typical Lotus undocumented changes

cheers
Rohan

[William2]

Hi Bob,

I am a great fan of Hammerite paint and I would have given the tank 2 coats of that followed by waxoyl and I fully agree with using some thick rubber spacer washers on the 3 mounting threads as this will help not to stress the fibreglass bodywork. I have to say that I have just fitted a secondhand alloy tank. No rust problems and so light!
Another product I recommend is "Kurust" for trying to kill off rust. I have been using it for many years and it does actually work. Another benefit of Hammerite is that you can apply it on top of the Kurust as no undercoat is advised with this product.

[bloodknock]

OK. Very familiar with kurust and hammerite, and agree with your process. Im thinking, penny washer, rubber washer, GRP body, penny washer, locknut.
The tank is a NOS Lotus steel. No rust, so will trowel on the hammerite.
Still need the best solution for the pipe coupling though. Just slipping pushfit rubber hose on to join the plastic and the steel tank pipe seems a bit iffy to me. How about some sort of adhEsive or sealant?
regards
Bob

[AHM]

Yes with some RTV between the penny washer and the bodywork on the outside.

Have a trial run as all those washers are a... to line up. Also check that it still sits at a reasonable height and level.

[rgh0]

Still need the best solution for the pipe coupling though. Just slipping pushfit rubber hose on to join the plastic and the steel tank pipe seems a bit iffy to me. How about some sort of adhEsive or sealant?
regards
Bob

Hi Bob
Lotus dont show in the parts manual how the rubber hose was connected on the tank steel tube and to the plastic line. The connection is under suction from any pump so it does not have to hold much pressure but it must not leak or let air in.

Hose clamps on the rubber connector tube for both the plastic tube and the steel tube ends were probably the original Lotus installation if your tank has a plain end to its steel tube and no compression fitting. If it was anything more complicated it would have been shown in the manual and there is not much room for anything else either.

A small amount of suitable Silicone sealant could be used but be careful not to get it inside the fuel line

cheers
Rohan

[alexblack13]

Great advice all round guys...

The best solution would be a compression fitting if you dont mind the small mod'. Bearing in mind it will be hidden from view under the boot flooring.

That was my method when I fitted the small electric fuel pump recently.

Good luck. I am sure it will be bang on whatever you do.

Alex B ...

[silverlink]

I always used to worry about the tank to fuel pump connections and plastic/rubber pipe just pushed on the tank. Eventually the original tank rusted through so I bought one of the very nice Spyder Alloy ones that they were making at the time. Fortunately this came with a proper screw in union but still had plastic pipe to front of car. On deciding to do a complete restoration of my car I have thrown away as many of the plastic and rubber pipes that I can and replaced with Goodridge stainless and stainless connectors. This includes the clutch slave cylinder, oil pressure gauge and full fuel supply. Not sure if they still do them but I got all the bits needed including specially made brake pipes (with stainless connectors) from Banks Service Station in Southport.
Ian
Elan Sprint