fuel check valve

PostPost by: h20hamelan » Fri Mar 15, 2013 3:46 pm

I am thinking of best placement for a fuel check valve.
Guess after the mechanical pump but I am not sure if that will disrupt the exact flow required.
So I may end up putting it before the pump!

any thoughts comments suggestions etc... appreciated !

kind regards all
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PostPost by: billwill » Fri Mar 15, 2013 5:57 pm

It seems to be an unusual thing to want to do. How were you going to activate it?
Is it an Elan or is is a Plus2 ?

On an Elan the easiest place would be where the fuel tank joins to the fuel pipe in the boot, same place as it is easiest to fit an electric fuel pump.
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PostPost by: h20hamelan » Sat Mar 16, 2013 1:00 am

Unusual how

What I understand about check valves is that they hold pressure so it does not reverse back to tank
I also understand there will be evaporation from the fuel line, so nothing will be perfect

Does a fuel check valve not hold pressure ?


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PostPost by: billwill » Sat Mar 16, 2013 1:22 am

Oh, that kind of valve. I see.

I bought one a few weeks ago to use as a non-return valve on my vacuum system. It was designed for fuel (probably diesel) so should be fine for your purpose.

Image

http://www.burtonpower.com/catalogsearc ... turn+valve

I got mine at a local motor parts factors
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PostPost by: h20hamelan » Sat Mar 16, 2013 1:33 am

cool
thanks
why do people not use these
they tend to put a electric pump and maybe a regulator

I guess the oil leak problem is still there, but what else is new
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PostPost by: john.p.clegg » Sat Mar 16, 2013 7:43 am

For how long to you expect it to hold what pressure and where?

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PostPost by: andyhodg » Sat Mar 16, 2013 7:44 am

Hi

If you are retaining the mechanical fuel pump there are two check valves within the pump that will prevent flow from the carbs back to the tank. What are you trying to achieve by fitting an additional check valve in the line?

All the best

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PostPost by: h20hamelan » Sat Mar 16, 2013 3:28 pm

thanks

I loose pressure in three-four days. more than one 8second crank. (if it has been sitting for a month it can take 10 8-sec cranks) guess things get lubricated which is good but i suspect they get lubricated if running too.
probably more frustrating than anything, and I would swap out pump if valves dried and worn out after 44 years?
so this was my thought, a $10 fix

If anybody has solutions, I don't see fuel. or smell it. I don't plug the roll-over vents. and I do have a modern fuel-cap-vent installed in the filler-cap.

I see people have put in electric, and the hand-opperated prime mechanical unit...


the 1969 + 2 does not suffer from lack of fuel it seems
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PostPost by: rgh0 » Sat Mar 16, 2013 11:17 pm

I think what you are loosing is the fuel evaporating out of the fuel bowls in the carbs. The engine then needs to crank over to refill the carbs. i dont believe adding extra check valvles into the system will make much difference unless the valves in the pump are passing in which case you probably should replace the pump. An electric fuel pump is the easy fix

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PostPost by: h20hamelan » Sat Mar 16, 2013 11:41 pm

Float bowl
Makes sense
It seems like an awful lot of cranking for a bowl.

Though I agree an electric pump would solve all

Thanks
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PostPost by: Jeff@Jae » Mon Mar 18, 2013 3:55 pm

Webers do tend to evaporate all the fuel out of them after a week or two and hence the long cranking time on a mechanical fuel pump to refill the float bowls. I solved it with a light weight gear reduction starter on my S2 but will be converting to an electric fuel pump (Facet Posi Flow) and an impact cut off switch in the very near future.
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PostPost by: h20hamelan » Fri Mar 22, 2013 5:25 pm

thanks

is a "electric fuel pump (Facet Posi Flow) and an impact cut off switch" if continuing to run the mechanical pump.

i was thinking of having a switch for priming the carb.

but maybe the "electric fuel pump (Facet Posi Flow) and an impact cut off switch" is a better option while removing the mechanical.
outside of oil leaks. any other benefits?

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PostPost by: billwill » Fri Mar 22, 2013 9:03 pm

The simplest solution is that devised by Alex. You fit a primer rubber-bulb pump (from an outboard-motor fuel system) between the tank and the long pipe in the boot. Leave the mech fuel pump as is.

A few squeezes on the bulb primes the carbs if they have been left long enough to evaporate.
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PostPost by: alfert » Mon Apr 01, 2013 1:31 pm

I installed the fuel bulb and it works great. A few squeezes and the fuel bowls are full... took a few minutes to install and the problem is gone.
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PostPost by: h20hamelan » Sat Apr 06, 2013 5:08 pm

hey
thanks

does the fuel evaporate or dribble into engine in the stromberg carbs?

I hate to think it is evaporation (should not that quick) but would prefer to think of loss. I may try a new carb kit seals etc. but wonder if a dab or two of fuel tank glue or epoxy would be a better fix

and would a bulb suffice in the engine as I park reverse under an overhang so I could not access the boot

regards

james s
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