Body Area Under Fuel Tank

[TeeJay]

I would be very grateful if anyone could upload a photo of the body area under the tank.

Also as this area is very thin, would it benefit from strengthening with glass matt and tissue

Any idea what the round cut-out by the rubber cap is

I assume that the cut outs allow access to the Diff mounts

I was fitting the new roof lining and reminded myself that I needed to update the fuel tank breathing to that as recommended by Club Lotus.
So I pulled back the felt to find a bodge job, an alum plate pop riveted to the body, no wonder the foot wells used to fill up with water. What with this and several other open holes around the floor areas.

Thanks for any comments.

[jono]

the round cut out is the tank drain down point.

The other cut outs do allow access to the diff mounts.

The third hole appears to be an owner modification

Jon

[jono]

..some pics of mine - I did some glass work around there too as you will see.

Jon

[TeeJay]

Jon, many thanks for your fast reply, comments and photos.

From your photos, it appears that the Diff access holes should be round.

The 3rd hole, yes is another PO mod, this is where the fuel feed pipe is attached. Again I note yours is round.

As I understand, thick (rubber?) gaskets are fitted over the Diff mounts, so they are between the chassis and body to seal out the weather.

Also I much appreciate your photo showing your excellent fuel tank breather system, very similar to what I intend doing.

Could I ask where you got your under felt from. Was it a kit

Your car is getting a A1 rebuild, its looking great.

Thanks again.

[jono]

Trevor,

I think the diff mount access holes are correct on yours - elliptical (mine were as well) which mirrors the shape of the diff mount. I glassed mine in and left only the bolt holes as having fitted TTR diff mounts I am not expecting to have to replace them anytime soon but wanted to be able to get access to the diff bolts in case I ever wished to change the diff back to a 3.77. I also wanted to minimise any holes which could let water in - I stuck some self adhesive foam over the holes before fitting the tank which is an Andy Wiltshire, prepared for a future FI conversion (internal swirl pot and treun pipe boss fitted) if I decide to do that.

I also made up glands where the tank outlet and drain points poke through.

The felt is just bought off the roll from Woolies and I cut it myself. You need quite a lot to do the car properly, probably 6 linear metres at a guess (1.2m wide roll). I also gave the shell 2 coats of Upol Gravitex before fitting the felt. It's time consuming but quite satisfying - you can but a felt kit from Sue Miller which is ready cut if you prefer. Buy a pack of 6 box cutters from Poundland (for a quid!) - cut the felt against a sheet of old ply or similar. I made a hole punch for putting holes where seat belt mounts etc go through.

Been through exactly what you are doing and I have loads of pics so ask if you need anymore.

Cheers

Jon

[TeeJay]

Jon Thanks for your comments, it's a great help when someone has completed the work and recorded the progress with photos.
I seem to be following your progress. You have previously given advice when I was re veneering my dash.

I did check the rolling chassis for the diff mounts and as you said they are elliptical, The rolling chassis has been complete over 2 years now, the body is taking a lot longer than I first thought, but it takes what it takes. I have 3 small project going on with the body. i.e. Relining the roof, renewing all the wiring harnesses and waiting to fit the dash after a re veneer and rewire.

I think I will go with your suggestion of a under felt kit and carpet set from Sue, I need to move my project along. I do admire your work ethos and would have preferred to cut all the felt myself, but as I said need to move forward. Wish I had done all this prior to the complete strip and respray of the body. Trying my hardest not to damage it as I work inside by using the various Supertex Car Covers.

Are you near to completing your restoration.
Thanks again

[jono]

Hi Trevor,

I'm about to commence the headlining so perhaps you can give me some guidance on that job - I approach it with some trepidation

My interior is now away for a complete re trim in black hide (you only live once!) and once I get it back I can really push on through the home straight. As you say, the chassis and mechanicals happen very quickly in relative terms, it's the body and fitting out which take the time. Getting the doors to hang well took me ages - eventually junked the nylon hinge bushes and had some turned up in phosphor bronze - they now work a treat and shut with a nice satisfying clunk

I am currently stalled with a very intractable electrical problem - new loom all fitted, dash wired etc. but we have a fault as soon as we energise the front loom - the front side light are permanently on. Buggered if I can find the problem - really annoying as it has stalled progress.

If you have not done so I recommend to change your dash Lucar terminals to flag connectors - I spent a lot of time doing this and separating the new dash loom into separate legs - now the dash fits up to the mounting points without any interference - there's sod all room behind there I posted pics on here somewhere of the finished article.

I've recently bought a 1964 Cooper S 'replicar' - that's deflecting my attention from the Lotus just now but it had to be done

Keep the faith!

Jon

[TeeJay]

Hi Jon.
Many thanks for your comments.

With reference to the Roof Relining.

After removing my old lining which was in good condition but stained, I removed the 4 lining tubes which were in good condition with only very small bits of rust on 2 tubes. These were treated and painted with metal paint.
Each tube was marked up to ensure it was refitted in the same position, but I think they are all the same, so possibly not important.

After fitting the tubes back into the new lining, I tightened all the tube pegs in position on one door side with the other side loose on the screws. Working from the side of the loose tube pegs, one tube was put onto the fixed side peg, then the loose peg and tube were pushed backwards until the peg entered the tube, then the screw tightened. This was repeated on the other tubes starting from the rear working to the front.

I purchased several boxes of Foldback Clips and temporally fitted the lining to the body. Fixed the front first, then the rear then the 2 sides. Over several warm days, (yes we did have some) I gently re stretched the front, removing one clip stretching and putting the clip back, then removing the next clip stretching putting the clip back etc etc. Did the same to one side, then the other side and finally the rear.

This procedure was repeated 2/3 more times with a day or more between each stretching, until there were no creases. Don't overstretch, this would be indicated by the tube stitching being pulled.
At this point, while clipped, I folded back the lining over the clips and marked the inside to ensure no adhesive was applied past this line and that no adhesive got onto the body. I also marked the lining on the rim edge this line was a guide to pull the lining back to this position for final clipping.

This is difficult to explain, if you think of a U, this being the lining passing over the inside to the outside. Then the base of the U is marked, so this is the mark you stretch back to. Will upload some more photos tomorrow night.

At present I have only glued the front and drivers side because I then thought of the Club Lotus Fuel Tank Breathing improvements. So I left the rear and passenger side and the 2 front windscreen rails which still need to be glued.

I used Evo Stik Time Bond which allows for some repositioning, most useful when pulling to final fixing position.

Applied adhesive by brush to the front windscreen body rim and the roof lining up to the marks, waited 5 mins. Pulled lining back into the marked position starting at centre working to the corner putting the clips on progressively. Walked round the car to other side and worked again from the centre to the corner.

For the passenger side after applying the adhesive I started from the windscreen working to the rear.

Hopefully this makes some kind of sense.

I can upload more photos as required.
Trust all goes well.

[markcs]

Jon,

Am in much the same stage with my Plus 2. Grateful for details of who you are using to retrim in leather as I am planning on doing the same.

many thanks

Mark

[TeeJay]

Jon.
Its true a picture illustrates things much more than all those words.
I removed a clip and remarked for the photo in red, but you can see the original yellow marks.
Also not mentioned previously was the tape, these were used also as alignment marks.

It really was much easier to do the job than explain it.
Have fun.

[jono]

Trevor,

Many thanks indeed for such a full account ....and the photos!

I feel emboldened to tackle the job now (so long as I can keep off the Mini!)

Cheers

Jon