Fuel line routing

[bluesbrother30]

I am in the process of installing my fuel lines and would like some group input. Lets start with the hard line. I have used a "stick" of 5/16 steel brake line. I have run the hard line through the chassis using rubber grommets as it passes through the two bulkheads. Up front, the hard line stops about 12 inches short of the mechanical fuel pump. I have used "Gates Barricade" fuel line to connect the hard line to the fuel pump over that 12 inch span with small flares on the end of the hard line with hose clamps to hold in place. At the rear, if I end the hard lind just above the diff, will it be acceptable to run the Gates line up through the body work to the fuel tank boss. That line could be as long as 24 inches. Of course will us a grommet where it passes through the fiberglass. Comments welcome. Will be test fitting the body this weekend and want to make sure this all comes together

mike

[alan.barker]

hi Mike,
on my 1972 Elan Sprint fhc in the boot i have fitted a fuel primer bulb in the flexible line (used on outboard motors). That way when i havn't used the car for a few weeks, i can squeeze the primer bulb to fill the carbs. It saves the starter and starter ring.
Alan B

[bluesbrother30]

So, I know my post on the fuel line routing was not very provocative. But.........can one of our experienced members give me a "yup, you got it" or "dumb shit, that wont work" for various reasons. I am assembling my car from a "basket case(s)" so I have nothing installed or experience to go by.

Mike

[oldelanman]

Hi Mike,
My car has 1/4" OD nylon pipe running all the way from the fuel tank to the pump, it runs through the chassis and is clipped at two points - one to the horseshoe crossmember over the gearbox and one approx halfway along the backbone. At the back it runs over the diff crossmember and into the boot where it's joined to the tank stub by a 3" length of 1/4" ID stainless steel braided pipe. At the front it was originally fitted direct to the glass bowl fuel pump with a nut and olive but since I have currently got a later pump fitted I've used a 3" length of 1/4" ID rubber fuel line to make the connection. If you have the original tank and pump your 5/16" line will be too large and will need reducing at either end.

Hope this helps.

[cliveyboy]

Mike
Sounds like you got it right.
I did something similar.
Rubber hose from fuel tank to metal fuel line which runs length of the car.
Metal pipe stops just in side engine bay and rubber hose is used to connect to fuel pump to allow for
engine movement.
Clive

[cal44]

Mike,

I haven't done mine yet but in general will do as are planning. Been doing early Ford Mustangs forever and, gas tank nipple to rubber hose to steel fuel line to rubber hose to fuel pump.

Worked for Shelby...................

Mike

[alexblack13]

Alan B gave you some very good advice too. If your car sits for any length of time between usage I would also recommend this mod. It will save you a lot of hassle with flattened battery's and worn out starter and ring.

The description on your fuel line install sounds about right. It will work just fine at that. I personally am not too keen on rubber connected to nylon and 'secured' with worm drive clips, but that's just me. I much prefer using proper fittings to secure to the tank 'stub' and also into the pump.

Think about that outboard primer Alan suggested. That DOES work and can be hidden under the boot floor if you like.

Good luck with the job anyway.

Alex B....

[builder618]

a small electric fuel pump in the boot, pressure not to exceed 2-3 psi takes care of fuel delivery without priming with the ball.

[bluesbrother30]

Thats what I needed............thanks to all.

ms

[alexblack13]

a small electric fuel pump in the boot, pressure not to exceed 2-3 psi takes care of fuel delivery without priming with the ball.

Remember... This is something you should only need to use if the car is sitting for more that a couple of weeks. I have only used it during the winter layup. The hand pump costs about a tenner to fit and has NO electrical content whatsoever. Simple to use when you need it and don't touch when you don't. NO noise either.

WHY go to the trouble of wiring in an electric pump? Cost? Noise? wiring? WHY ???

Don't try and tell me they are cheap and quiet. My mate has one fitted and its driving him nuts. And it cost a few bob too. So, If you are going that route (which works fine and again saves motors and starter ring trouble) make sure you use a good quality and quiet pump or you will regret it.

BUT.... To each their own...JMHO ... But I have been there !

Alex B ....

[bluesbrother30]

Alex............

I am staying away for additional electrical equipment on my car. No electric fuel pump, no radio.........trying to keep it simple. I have a brand new harness and hate the thought of splicing in here and there. I have never heard of a "fuel primer bulb". I don't do motor boats. So, if the car has been sitting for a bit, you use the pump to get fuel up to the carbs?? Then when you start it is easier on the starter/ring gear??

ms

[ardee_selby]

I have never heard of a "fuel primer bulb". I don't do motor boats. So, if the car has been sitting for a bit, you use the pump to get fuel up to the carbs?? Then when you start it is easier on the starter/ring gear??

ms

Pic of example installation: download/file.php?id=6101

From thread: elan-f14/primer-pump-t18000-15.html

"Easier" in terms of reducing duration of start cycle.

Richard

[alexblack13]

There you go! Thanks Richard...

MS .. Exactly!!

The bulb primer only need used when the car has been left standing for in excess of 10 days or so. One just presses it a few times to fill the carbs up and your car should start 1st touch with very few turns of the motor. Mine does anyway. Almost instant most times. I have it fitted under the floor in the spare wheel well. Its never touched during the summer time as the car is in use then. If you don't leave the car sitting for ages (Like me during winter) then you don't need anything.


http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FUEL-PRIMER-B ... 53ea6184fc

Buy online.. Anything from ?2.99 up to around ? 10 .... Your choice! Simple and it works.... As Richard points out, easier starting due to reduced turning over of the engine just to fill up your carbs.

Have fun!!

[bast0n]

Very interesting.

I find that if I leave my car for any long length of time it seems to make no difference. A couple of churns and away we spluttering go until all the carburettors are equally full - then sweetness and light. The accelerator pumps are all the priming needed.

Where does the petrol go if all is sealed in tight?

No need for a primer pump is my simple view.


David

Anarchy Elan S3

[lotocone]

I like the bulb primer idea Alex. My Webers go dry in 2-3 weeks from evaporation. I've cranked the engine for a long time to get fuel into the carbs, or poured a little fuel directly into them. The bulb primer beats both of those methods.