Routing rubber fuel hose to rear
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I am running a new steel fuel line through the spine, with rubber fuel hose from there to the fuel pump and tank in the boot. There is clearance between the top of the chassis bridge (into which the diff is mounted) and the bodywork for the original plastic line, but is there enough for 1/4" fuel hose (1/2" OD)? It will squish down a little, I guess, without pinching off the flow or distorting the bodywork in that area. One option is to provide a channel in which the hose can run by gluing strips of wood either side. Is there room around the diff to go under the bridge instead of over it? Other options?
Thanks in advance.
Thanks in advance.
Andrew Bodge
'66 Elan S2 26/4869
I love the sound of a torque wrench in the morning. Sounds like... progress.
'66 Elan S2 26/4869
I love the sound of a torque wrench in the morning. Sounds like... progress.
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RotoFlexible - Fourth Gear
- Posts: 621
- Joined: 01 Sep 2005
I ran a new copper line and cut a channel through the fibre glass above the diff to give clearence. I then fibreglassed a tunnel over it. I think that a 1/4" rubber pipe will get pinched but personnaly would always use metal with rubber for the end joints to tank and pump
John
John
- JATLAN4
- First Gear
- Posts: 17
- Joined: 02 Apr 2007
You should be able to run the steel line through a slot in the padding that goes on top of the chassis bridge above the diff between the chassis and the body. Once past the chassis then you can connect the rubber line for the short run into the trunk (boot) to the fuel tank. Put a rubber grommet or other protection on the hole in the body to stop the rubber line wearing on the edges with vibration
When replacing the original plastic line with steel make sure it is well support especially at its ends and not subject to vibration that may lead to fatigue cracking. Use the mounting of your steel brake lines as guide to how it should be done
cheers
Rohan
When replacing the original plastic line with steel make sure it is well support especially at its ends and not subject to vibration that may lead to fatigue cracking. Use the mounting of your steel brake lines as guide to how it should be done
cheers
Rohan
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rgh0 - Coveted Fifth Gear
- Posts: 8413
- Joined: 22 Sep 2003
Thanks, Rohan. The plan was to run rubber from just aft of the spine to the boot, but I am having second thoughts. There was no padding on that area of the chassis - just the seals around the diff mounts, which I will replace with closed cell foam - but perhaps I can run the foam all the way across the bridge and channel the line through it as you suggest. The steel line is hard mounted to a bulkhead in the engine bay and supported by grommets where it enters and exits the spine. It's not close enough to the side of the spine to clip it in the middle unless I bend it slightly.
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Andrew Bodge
'66 Elan S2 26/4869
I love the sound of a torque wrench in the morning. Sounds like... progress.
'66 Elan S2 26/4869
I love the sound of a torque wrench in the morning. Sounds like... progress.
-
RotoFlexible - Fourth Gear
- Posts: 621
- Joined: 01 Sep 2005
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