fuel leaking from Weber front and rear trumpets

[Craven]

Never fit a head with the cam caps tightened down. Set clearances on the bench yes but never leave the valves open when fitting the head.

[MarkDa]

It is tempting to already have the pistons top & bottom ready to time camshaft when installing the head but they should be mid point 90⁰ before #1 TDC on firing cycle.
That way the head can be fitted with the cams in any position with no fear of touching.
Then both cams can be turned to TDC position again no chance of obstruction ready to finally bring #1 piston to TDC.
That way you don't push valves down on piston nor force piston up to valves.
Or as craven says fit head with valves retracted - but you still need pistons at mid point for when you tighten cams.

[alan.barker]

The most important is to find your method that works and stick to it don't change.
Alan

[MarkDa]

Agreed - I should have been less prescriptive.

[512BB]

AB wrote 'i've never done that but i very much like the idea. Before i replace Head i always put at TDC'

The simplest ideas are very often the best Alan, but I am not so sure about TDC on no.1 piston, if that is what you meant. I leave the pistons half way up / down the bores, then pop the head on, with the cams on the bench. Apart from knocking a valve head on the block if you have the cams tightened down when fitting the head, the head is that much heavier to lift into place.

With the head fitted and torqued down, I replace one camshaft at a time, which you can spin over to your hearts content as the pistons are at the half way stage, to set the final valve clearances, having got them close on the bench. But as we all know, they alter when the head is tightened down.

Note ordinary nuts on caps for a few in and out of the camshafts before fitting nylocks for final tighten up.

But as has been said, find a way that 'suits you Sir'

Leslie

[Craven]

What surprises me reading the last few posts is the apparent number of times some individuals remove and refit their cylinder heads. Once reconditioned even a twincam, better add here ‘ unless raced ‘ will run for many thousands of miles without needing to be touched, 10 years of classic car use!

[alan.barker]

I put BOTH at TDC before assemmbling.
I also use 2 Dowels made from old Head Bolts to locate Head Gasket and Head.
With Dowels contact between Valves and Block impossible.
Just a reminder when the Head is on the Bench with both Camshafts fitted be careful because you can get contact between Valves.
Alan

[512BB]

Craven wrote 'What surprises me reading the last few posts is the apparent number of times some individuals remove and refit their cylinder heads'

You appear to be assuming a lot there Craven, if you were refering to my posts and pics in this thread. The car I am working on, I bought and drove home about 14 years ago, and there it has sat, about 100 miles in total. I decided at the begining of the year to recommission it, and all I was doing was checking the valve clearances and making some adjustments.

After cleaning the carbs out and resetting some gaps, the engine runs very nicely, nothing wrong with the head gasket.

Craven also wrote 'Once reconditioned even a twincam, better add here ‘ unless raced ‘ will run for many thousands of miles without needing to be touched'

I agree with you there. Indeed, I have NEVER replaced a head gasket on a twincam, unless I was rebuilding the motor.

Nice weekend all.

Leslie

[alan.barker]

For me i only remove the Cylinder Head when needed. Always use standard Head Gasket and i have never retorqued the Head.
Alan

[Hawksfield]

Alan Barker

Same for me, never had a head gasket fail
Hope that does not tempt providence