Throttle Return Spring fitting

PostPost by: robertverhey » Wed Apr 04, 2012 11:25 am

Hi

Yes a bit blurry but they're close to 40 thou.....but only fitted temporarily, until I bite the bullet and separate body and chassis....soon!
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PostPost by: simonknee » Wed Apr 04, 2012 11:58 am

What I did in my lunch break...

Needle file and dremel on the linkage.
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PostPost by: nebogipfel » Wed Apr 04, 2012 5:47 pm

simonknee wrote:What I did in my lunch break...

Needle file and dremel on the linkage.



Glad you're sorted.

I had a look at mine today and I clearly didn't take much out of the hole. The spring was a Weber one supplies by the lovely Susan Miller. I suspect there may be slight batch variations with the springs which seems to be the case for lots of classic parts these days
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PostPost by: Henry VIIII » Wed Apr 04, 2012 11:26 pm

simonknee wrote:Robert,

The other reason for an extra spring is that your dpo had trouble getting the linkage back to idle when off throttle. I'd remove it and make sure that everything still works OK. It could be that the original spring is no longer what it was. It could be a sticking throttle cable. Possibly the carb linkage is somewhat worn doesn't settle back nicely.

I'd only worry about the throttle cable but that is a part that definitely needs replacing when worn. Perhaps since it rubs on the underside of the bonnet it seems to wear pretty fast in my experience.

Alternatively the dpo might have had the main spring pop out at sometime so was a little paranoid!



I now use teflon lined bicycle brake cable for my throttle.
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PostPost by: prezoom » Thu Apr 05, 2012 3:26 pm

Like Henry, I use a bike brake cable. On LHD cars, a cable from tandem bike is long enough to cut to length. I buy bulk sheath, sheath ends and a "noodle" from a front V-brake to bend the cable towards the carbs from the foot box. The sheath and the noodle are teflon lined, which makes for a smooth operation.

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PostPost by: simonknee » Fri Apr 06, 2012 9:22 am

All fitted up last night and suffering terrible stiction at the pedal.

Took the carb lock nut back one flat. No better
3in1 down the new throttle cable. A bit better.
Could be the that my return spring is a bit tight in it's newly enlarged hole but the light was failing so that's what I'm off to check now.

It may well be the new throttle cable so it might be a teflon bike one for me too (I like that idea anyway).

More fiddling today will reveal the problem (I hope).
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PostPost by: Robbie693 » Fri Apr 06, 2012 12:53 pm

When I had a new cable fitted by PM a couple of years ago it came back very stiff and reluctant to return to idle. Surprisingly a squirt of GT85 was all it needed to restore normal operation, and I've not had to do it since.

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PostPost by: simonknee » Fri Apr 06, 2012 1:25 pm

Yup all the stiction was in the new cable. However it is only apparent when under tension. So I cleaned it out with carb cleaner since any old grease could be very sticky. Then I packed it (best I could) with a grease I normally use on the front forks of my mountain bike. This grease is specifically to eliminate sticking since that is the bane of front forks.

It feels much better now. About to take a run into town so we'll see how it goes.
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PostPost by: simonknee » Fri Apr 06, 2012 4:46 pm

Smooth as silk thanks to:
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PostPost by: gwnorth68 » Wed Apr 11, 2012 3:10 am

I had same problem: used it as excuse to buy right angle head for Dremel grinder and was able to open up the too-small hole with a drill without removing Webers. No problem since. An have found many uses for the Dremel tool.
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PostPost by: twincamman » Wed Apr 11, 2012 11:26 am

Don't use grease on the throttle cable ....use ATF works a treat ....ed
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PostPost by: simonknee » Sat Apr 14, 2012 9:44 am

Obviously ATF works or you wouldn't use it.
Is there a technical reason why you went for this?

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