Weber check list

[UAB807F]

I?m interested by your static timing setting : I assume the bulb must be connected to earth and on +ve from the distributor ? I don?t really understand the black wire role between coil and distributor

I just had a simple circuit of an old instrument lighting bulb with some crocodile clips on the 2 wires. One I clip onto a cam cover bolt, the other to the -ve side of the coil - ie the one that goes to the distributor. I set the pulley to TDC for #1 firing stroke & switch on the ignition and then slowly rotate the pulley with a spanner towards 12deg (? memory - check). If it's set up perfectly then the lamp will come on just as you hit 12deg. If not, leave it on 12deg & rotate the distributor until it comes on (making sure you don't move off #1 contact, it should only be a few degrees at most)

It's a while since I last did it and my memory does play tricks but I think that's about it. Once the engine starts then I usually fine tune it with a timing light as per normal. I don't know if that will work with the TTR set up but the wiring does sound similar to mine so I'd give it a whirl.

Brian

[spridget]

OK so I have to charge the battery

Brian, is your car positive earthed ? cause if you connect the bulb on the cam cover and the other on neg side of the coil, I don?t understand !
I don?t understand either why are there a +ve wire and a -ve wire from distributor to coil

Franck

[twincamman]

Ok if you have the ignition key on for 3 or more minutes Without cranking I have seen the new pertronics go for a sh,,t and never work again..sadly ...Ed

[UAB807F]

Ok if you have the ignition key on for 3 or more minutes Without cranking I have seen the new pertronics go for a sh,,t and never work again..sadly ...Ed

Geez, that's something I'd call a major design flaw, do you think it's a "feature" of all units or just a rogue one ? I recall being told not to leave the ignition on and not running, but 3 minutes isn't that long, is it ? But something I shall bear in mind from now on.

Franck, my car is negative earth, as far as I know all the Pertronix units are for neg. earth applications.

If the TTR system is the same as mine (and that's an "if" - I'm guessing ) then the red wire just needs an ignition switched 12v supply and when you switch on the ignition the +ve side of the coil that becomes live 12v. You could hide the wire & connect it to the back of the ignition switch if you wanted the engine bay to look totally original to but the coil is more convenient.

All my test lamp circuit does is replicate the old C/B points static timing circuit, in fact I'm using exactly the same bulb & crocodile clips I used then. When the points opened the current went from the coil terminal via the bulb to earth and it lights up. With them closed it went through the points to earth. I'll try and get a couple of photos of it in use & post up.

Brian

[twincamman]

This was on a f 1000 car with a z tech 2000 motor and some time during the 3minutes the unit failed while we looked for another fault...ed

[UAB807F]

Franck,
Ok, it's very crowded (and none too tidy) underneath the webers on my car where the coil is hidden away. I hope you can see from these shots how the lamp arrangement is set up. The first shows the crocodile clips connected to the coil and I've used the timing chain adjuster as the earth connection so they are all in the shot. At this point the engine is at a random setting, not at the firing point for any cylinder.



The second shot is after I'd switched on the ignition and turned it to 12deg BTDC, the firing point for #1. Very simple and depending how accurate you are at judging 12deg on the timing chest it can be spot on when you later check with a timing light. (once you get it spot on, I put a dab of paint on the 12deg mark so the next time is easier)



Brian

[UAB807F]

This was on a f 1000 car with a z tech 2000 motor and some time during the 3minutes the unit failed while we looked for another fault...ed

Boy, I bet that was frustrating ! That would be "kick the car and swear loudly" time.

Out of interest, what did you replace it with ? another pertronix or another system entirely ?

Brian

[twincamman]

I would put the old distributor back in if you know it works . Starting a car that has been dorment you need to eliminate as many problems as possible I put a 5th spark plug on the valve cover and attach it to #1spark lead to assure the distributor is correct with the wires and with the pulley at 5 degrees and #one piston at TDC turn the distributor until the plug sparks ,if all is correct you are close to start .....When you get start ,even a shudder attempt we will go from there ...also spend 30 bucks and buy a unison
..tool for the next step...ed

[twincamman]

At 3800 bucks for a nose these cars are not kick start items We'll the Pertonics rep refused to believe it was the unit even though the car started and ran with another unit .we did replace it as it was required for the class...stupid is as stupid does ..it was our fault ....ed

[spridget]

The engine has started ! In fact I have pull out the distributor which wasn?t on the right cylinder at TDC. What a pleasure to hear the TC running again !
Many thanks to all for your precious help and especially to Brian which took time to make the pictures
So now a new trouble : there is a fuel leak below the front carb, I presume it comes from the O ring plates, they seem to be in a good shape so I haven?t replaced them, may be I should ?

Ed sorry for your misadventure, what is a F 1000 car ? a formula 1000 ? like the formula junior ?

[twincamman]

it a wing car with the z tec ford twincam . far too costly for what it is --ed

[twincamman]

sorry tipo f 2000 ---go to 'STUPID MONKEY RACING ' one of the drivers on u tube some pics of the cars there Brents car is black 7 that gets collected in the start crash . --Im pretty much finished with all that now Im just going to raise the grand children --- ed

[UAB807F]

there is a fuel leak below the front carb, I presume it comes from the O ring plates, they seem to be in a good shape so I haven?t replaced them, may be I should ?

If it is just coming from a single inlet, then I would suspect the O-ring is either not tightened up correctly or has possibly slipped/misaligned in the holder. I have seen old rings swell, presumably petrol/solvent absorption, and hence difficult to locate accurately. If it's from the airbox or two inlets then I would check float height as well. Too high and it will allow flooding.

Brian

Ps - great news to hear it's on the mend.

[spridget]

OK Ed so that should be very great to drive this kind of racing car, but I understand it needs a lot of involvement !
Brian, it?s not easy to find where comes the leak but I suspect the first inlet, so I?ll take off one more time the webers (I?m gonna be as fast as for a tyres replacement on a racing track !)
The float height have previously been checked (12 mm)

To be continued !
thanks again

Franck

[spridget]

Hi

After a long time ?painting the house flaps, I assume you know the song : "you prefer to work on your cars than on house" (that?s sure !) I?m back under the bonnet of the +2.
That?s not glorious, engine starts but a few runs show the same acceleration's troubles. Now I have realized that only the cylinders 3 an 4 seem to do the job at least at idle. When I take the plug wire off, there is no sign of change on cylinder 1 and 2 ?
So I know I haven?t checked the fuel line and neither the pump. Do you think it could be a too much low fuel pressure ? Or there is a dust or something that occurs the admission
A friend of mine told me about a king filter regulator, but I assume it is needed with an electric fuel pump not with a mechanical one.
I?m a bit confused but not totally desperate ! Sure I ?ll find with your advice !

Franck