sheared carb mounting stud

PostPost by: alexblack13 » Thu Jan 07, 2010 4:35 pm

Sorry, Posted above just behind (and did not see) Graham's post. All V good advice.

I too recommend using pro' service if not confident. Under no circumstances should you try this in situ...

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PostPost by: GrUmPyBoDgEr » Thu Jan 07, 2010 4:51 pm

Oh come on Guys, this is not a difficult job.
Even if the drilling goes Tits up the Flange can still be easily rescued.
Seems like Handbags at Dawn then Alex :lol:

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PostPost by: alexblack13 » Thu Jan 07, 2010 4:58 pm

It should not be difficult John, Tricky yes! difficult no. Having said that. Exprnce counts.

I still recom' he sends it out to a pro' company.As someone said he has some comeback then.

Lots of people doubling up on advice though.

Happy days.. I carry a brick in my handbag. :roll:

Don't tell me you are cross dressing now John. :roll:


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PostPost by: GrUmPyBoDgEr » Thu Jan 07, 2010 5:02 pm

alexblack13 wrote:It should not be difficult John, Tricky yes! difficult no. Having said that. Exprnce counts.

I still recom' he sends it out to a pro' company.As someone said he has some comeback then.

Lots of people doubling up on advice though.

Happy days.. I carry a brick in my handbag. :roll:

Don't tell me you are cross dressing now John. :roll:


Alex.... 8)


Now? been doin' it for years m'dear, still have problems with the Heels though :lol: :lol: :lol:
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PostPost by: alexblack13 » Thu Jan 07, 2010 7:04 pm

We better not go there again John. Mind what happened last time? :lol: :lol:

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PostPost by: CBUEB1771 » Thu Jan 07, 2010 7:11 pm

D.J.Pelly wrote:Now? been doin' it for years m'dear, still have problems with the Heels though


I always change to sensible shoes when drilling a stud out.
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PostPost by: GrUmPyBoDgEr » Thu Jan 07, 2010 7:23 pm

alexblack13 wrote:We better not go there again John. Mind what happened last time? :lol: :lol:

Alex :wink:


If they 'aint got a sense of humour they'll soon give up Elan ownership.
Anyway,no harm in taking a topic from the mad to the ridiculous is there :lol:
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PostPost by: GrUmPyBoDgEr » Thu Jan 07, 2010 7:40 pm

CBUEB1771 wrote:
D.J.Pelly wrote:Now? been doin' it for years m'dear, still have problems with the Heels though


I always change to sensible shoes when drilling a stud out.


Oooh I'm soooo envious of you; me, well just call me a Slave of Fashion :lol:
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PostPost by: alexblack13 » Thu Jan 07, 2010 10:41 pm

CBUEB1771 wrote:
D.J.Pelly wrote:Now? been doin' it for years m'dear, still have problems with the Heels though


I always change to sensible shoes when drilling a stud out.


Oh God!! :lol: :lol: :lol: Stop it! Have pity on a man in pain here. Im am sore laughing..

you will get yer wrist slapped.

Alex.. :lol: :lol: :lol:
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PostPost by: leifanten » Fri Jan 08, 2010 2:34 am

You two get a room! :lol: :lol:
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PostPost by: Dag-Navit » Sat Jan 09, 2010 3:29 pm

Right then ladies this is where im at: reservoir fashioned around offending stud to form a pool of pen' oil which i'm topping up each morning and evening. When the body comes off i will try to remove with a hand drill as described above ( i have experience with easy-outs so know the potential for a shitzu) I will center and drill and see how it goes, hopefully the stud will ive up the struggle before the need for an easy out , but doubtfull. the only other thoughti ave is to take the advice from further up and make a jig that locates the drill dead center of the casting hole (visualizing a short tube on the face of a flat steel plate that will guide the bit and prevent drift)
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PostPost by: paddy » Sat Jan 09, 2010 4:22 pm

I successfully drilled out a stud from an alloy head (on an Audi, not the twink) with this kind of jig. A 20mm square steel bar, drilled so that it could be securely fixed to two of the remaining studs, and with a hole as a guide for the drill. As Alex says, make sure the dril is ultra-sharp and do not apply any pressure, just let it cut by itself. I was able to progressively drill to a size that was close to the internal thread diameter and then the remaining parts of the stud just gave up and the hole could be cleaned up with a tap.

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PostPost by: Rob_LaMoreaux » Mon Jan 11, 2010 3:41 pm

At least with the Carb mounting studs there is a good chance that when you try to drill it out it will back out through the flange. I had one on my Stromberg engine break and when I went to drill it out to use an ez-out it just screwed itself the rest of the way through the flange and fell out. Unfortunately I was a little careless on it and damaged the threads in the flange a little, but that too was not big deal. I just added some loctite and a nut on the backside of the flange. It is still there today although the stromberge engine is out of the car due to oil pick up problems. The flange on the weber head also will allow the stud to pass through so I would try to drill a smaller hole into the stud, then tap the hole and run a screw into the bolt that can be used to screw it all the way through the flange.

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PostPost by: GrUmPyBoDgEr » Mon Jan 11, 2010 4:30 pm

Rob_LaMoreaux wrote:At least with the Carb mounting studs there is a good chance that when you try to drill it out it will back out through the flange. I had one on my Stromberg engine break and when I went to drill it out to use an ez-out it just screwed itself the rest of the way through the flange and fell out. Unfortunately I was a little careless on it and damaged the threads in the flange a little, but that too was not big deal. I just added some loctite and a nut on the backside of the flange. It is still there today although the stromberge engine is out of the car due to oil pick up problems. The flange on the weber head also will allow the stud to pass through so I would try to drill a smaller hole into the stud, then tap the hole and run a screw into the bolt that can be used to screw it all the way through the flange.

Rob


Thanks for adding your own experience Rob.
It backs up nicely what I was saying.
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PostPost by: stugilmour » Tue Jan 12, 2010 7:01 am

I had one of the exhaust studs break off a while ago. Used a new product (at least to me at any rate) called "Loctite Freeze and Release". You spray it straight at the offending stud, and the freezing action helps break the bond on the threads. Worked very well with an Easy Out. Very little torque was required, no where near breaking the Easy Out. Lucked out for sure, but a really neat product. Good luck with the drilling part and let us know how it goes.

http://loctitefreezeandrelease.com/
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