Weber - gas coming out of 1 throat

PostPost by: pcarew » Mon Nov 25, 2024 11:13 pm

alanr wrote:Hi Paul,
....Anyway....It seems you are getting there
.


Thanks Alan,
What if anything would you normally use on the paper gasket between the fuel pump and the Spacer block?
Paul
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PostPost by: alanr » Tue Nov 26, 2024 8:35 am

This can be an area for an oil leak!
Check if the face of the pump is perfectly flat?.....If not, carefully file the face flat.
Then I would lightly smear the gasket with RVT Silicone.

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PostPost by: pcarew » Wed Nov 27, 2024 4:50 am

New Fuel pump problem

Well this is turning into quite the Saga!

I went to test fit the refurbished AC fuel pump and the fuel pump wont fit over the studs!

Thinking it was just an angle/positioning problem, I unscrewed the studs and then checked to make sure the fit in the FP holes....they're too fat by about a 1/32 or so.

I'm guessing that when the garage changed out the Fuel Pump and fitted the replacement, they must have also changed the studs too

I'm now scratching my head trying to decide what my next step should be. Are there slimmer studs out there?

Any thoughts from the knowledgeable???

Paul
Last edited by pcarew on Wed Nov 27, 2024 9:05 am, edited 1 time in total.
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PostPost by: pcarew » Wed Nov 27, 2024 5:30 am

On checking the Workshop manual, it looks like the Fuel Pump should be attached to the Engine with Hex bolts. Mine has studs!

I guess I need to get two bolts. Any specs on the length+width? I can determine the thread, but what is the standard length for these?
The studs are 5/16" diameter which would seem a reasonable size, but they were just slightly too fat (by a hair ~ maybe a 32nd or 64th or thereabouts)

I've placed one of the studs on the assembly page here.

20241126_232050.jpg and
Fuel Pump Assembly


Thanks
Paul.
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PostPost by: SENC » Wed Nov 27, 2024 1:29 pm

pcarew wrote:On checking the Workshop manual, it looks like the Fuel Pump should be attached to the Engine with Hex bolts. Mine has studs!

I guess I need to get two bolts. Any specs on the length+width? I can determine the thread, but what is the standard length for these?
The studs are 5/16" diameter which would seem a reasonable size, but they were just slightly too fat (by a hair ~ maybe a 32nd or 64th or thereabouts)

I've placed one of the studs on the assembly page here.

20241126_232050.jpg


Thanks
Paul.


Do you have Buckland's book? As I recall there is a section with all bolt sizes, though I don't remember if this one is called out.
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PostPost by: bjw » Wed Nov 27, 2024 2:09 pm

The parts manual only lists the Ford part no.: 20406-S2 rather then the helpful Lotus code.

Googling that brings it up as 5/16"-18 x 1 1/4" (i.e. UNC)

(The S2 suffix means phosphated/oiled.)

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PostPost by: pcarew » Wed Nov 27, 2024 5:26 pm

Hello Henry and bjw,
Henry, I don't happen to have the 'Bucklands book', the workshop manual has always steered me right so far.

'bjw', thanks for the bolt details.
I wonder how important the 'phosphated/oiled' aspect is.

Paul.
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PostPost by: 2cams70 » Thu Nov 28, 2024 1:25 am

Have you measured the diameter of the stud and compared it to a bolt of correct thread? You can look up the diameter of the bolt by referencing bolt standards. The problem may also be because the mounting face of the pump has bowed significantly and someone previously has corrected the bow by machining or filing without having first tried to correct the bow as much as possible by straightening. Phosphating is that dark grey finish that the OEM bolts had. It retains oil and has a mild anti corrosion effect. Not something you need worry about however. Make sure you torque the bolts correctly. That’s how things become bent in the first place.
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PostPost by: pcarew » Thu Nov 28, 2024 4:40 pm

Thank you 2cams70,
I was able to obtain a couple of zinc coated bolts from my local car parts store.

I'll check for bowing, but it looks pretty straight to me. Good thoughts though.

Paul.
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