Full Throttle Stumble
15 posts
• Page 1 of 1
HI guys
I just got my S2 back from having its valve guides replaced and it runs really well as long as I don't give it full throttle from around 3000 rpm's or so. It stumbles pretty badly and then rights itself and pulls up to red line. I noticed this as soon as i got it back and so re-balanced and tuned the carbs. I'm certainly not a Weber expert, but I have been tuning these carbs for 53 years and have always had good luck. I have an electric fuel pump set at 2 psi. I'm kind of stumped. Also, it might be my imagination, but it seemed ok with the air box removed. Probably just my imagination. Thanks.
Frank
I just got my S2 back from having its valve guides replaced and it runs really well as long as I don't give it full throttle from around 3000 rpm's or so. It stumbles pretty badly and then rights itself and pulls up to red line. I noticed this as soon as i got it back and so re-balanced and tuned the carbs. I'm certainly not a Weber expert, but I have been tuning these carbs for 53 years and have always had good luck. I have an electric fuel pump set at 2 psi. I'm kind of stumped. Also, it might be my imagination, but it seemed ok with the air box removed. Probably just my imagination. Thanks.
Frank
66 S2 26/5194
LP4711LA-B
LP4711LA-B
-
ftsoft - Second Gear
- Posts: 174
- Joined: 15 Sep 2009
Could the floats have been banged around a bit and fuel level no longer correct? Or crud in the fuel left as sediment in the internal filter or float valve restricting fuel intake? I'd also look at ignition/timing.
Henry
69 Elan S4
65 Seven S2
69 Elan S4
65 Seven S2
- SENC
- Coveted Fifth Gear
- Posts: 1018
- Joined: 30 Dec 2015
ftsoft wrote: I was looking for something that might have changed because of removing the head and reinstalling. What would the symptoms of carbs not tightened correctly be?
You'd get an air leak, which would like cause a lean mixture which might be enough yo cause a stumble. Not sure how likely a air leak at higher rpm and opening throttle would be. Worth checking the carbs are mounted correctly.
'73 +2 130/5 RHD, now on the road and very slowly rolling though a "restoration"
- mbell
- Coveted Fifth Gear
- Posts: 2643
- Joined: 07 Jun 2013
off the wall suggestion... are the vacuum take offs leaking or have any muck in them [I am assuming the set up to be pretty much the same as the +2]..
1968 Elan plus 2 - project
2007 Elise S2 [modified with a Hethel 70th sticker (yellow)]
2000 Elise S1 - Sold
2007 Elise S2 [modified with a Hethel 70th sticker (yellow)]
2000 Elise S1 - Sold
- wotsisname
- Third Gear
- Posts: 452
- Joined: 24 Jun 2015
My recent experience with similar symptoms, was an airleak from cracked misab gasket.
-
LaikaTheDog - Third Gear
- Posts: 306
- Joined: 29 Oct 2003
yes, those are the rings that go between webers (and dellorttos?) and the inlet manifold to reduce vibration in the carb.
-
LaikaTheDog - Third Gear
- Posts: 306
- Joined: 29 Oct 2003
It should be noted that the Lotus/Weber setup does not use this type of plate.
If you have the correct carb manifold interface you will have a metal plate with grooves on both faces that accept free ‘O’ rings, 4 plates 8 ‘O’ rings in total.
If you have the correct carb manifold interface you will have a metal plate with grooves on both faces that accept free ‘O’ rings, 4 plates 8 ‘O’ rings in total.
- Craven
- Coveted Fifth Gear
- Posts: 1624
- Joined: 14 Sep 2013
“ If you have the correct carb manifold interface you will have a metal plate with grooves on both faces”
When you say “correct” do you mean “as originally built” or do you mean “works properly?”. If the latter, what is wrong with the above and other common methods used to reduce vibration?
When you say “correct” do you mean “as originally built” or do you mean “works properly?”. If the latter, what is wrong with the above and other common methods used to reduce vibration?
- awatkins
- Second Gear
- Posts: 88
- Joined: 23 Sep 2015
Reference to poster S2, has/had this type as original equipment, in my experience the only sure way, when used, again with original type thackery washers and locknuts, to ensure a good seal and correct compliance.
Nothing in my reply suggests alternative are not suitable but I have used most and have after a period gone back to original equipment arrangement.
Nothing in my reply suggests alternative are not suitable but I have used most and have after a period gone back to original equipment arrangement.
- Craven
- Coveted Fifth Gear
- Posts: 1624
- Joined: 14 Sep 2013
15 posts
• Page 1 of 1
Total Online:
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 18 guests