Pump with Manual Lever

PostPost by: vincereynard » Mon Sep 04, 2017 2:15 pm

I've been chatting to the chap in Slovakia that made TOAD's fuel pump. He very decently sent me some spare cover washers and filters to replace the set ruined by the usual suspects.

Anyway he maintains that it would be quite easy for him to make a pump with an external manual lever.

Therefore the rubber bulb / additional electric pump to prime the carbs would not be necessary.

I told him I would ask about to gauge interest.

So----- is there?
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PostPost by: davidc » Mon Sep 04, 2017 2:43 pm

would this be a replacement for original mechanical fuel pump, just with manual primer built in?

if so depending on cost that would be of interest to me.

don't want to go electric and not mad on idea of bulb in boot space.
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PostPost by: nmauduit » Mon Sep 04, 2017 3:33 pm

The principle is interesting, but in practice with the carbs above it seems to me easier to pour a bit of fuel directly in the bowls that having to plunge into the darkness for reaching the lever...
Last edited by nmauduit on Tue Sep 05, 2017 7:41 am, edited 1 time in total.
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PostPost by: vincereynard » Mon Sep 04, 2017 3:53 pm

davidc wrote:would this be a replacement for original mechanical fuel pump, just with manual primer built in?

if so depending on cost that would be of interest to me.

don't want to go electric and not mad on idea of bulb in boot space.


A straight replacement. No glass bowl.

nmauduit wrote:The principle is interesting, but in practice with the carbs above it seems to me easier to poor a bit of fuel directly in the bowls that having to plunge into the darkness for reaching the lever...

I agree, it is very awkward.

My idea was to have a wire with a hook on one end and a loop on the other.

There is a small hole in the end of the manual lever. The wire slips down in the space between 3 /4 inlet manifold. Engages the lever and you can pump remotely.

I've seen a similar arrangement on a tractor where the pump is inaccessible.
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PostPost by: RichardHawkins » Mon Sep 04, 2017 8:43 pm

Vince,

I am old enough to have owned a car with such a fuel pump, and it was useful. The car was a pre war Hillman, and there was loads of space unde the bonnet, making the pump easily accessible, unlike our Elans. I have decided on the electric pump option.

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PostPost by: HAIRY » Mon Sep 04, 2017 10:52 pm

Am I right in understanding a fuel pump with a manual lever would overcome the problem of starting a twin cam when it was so hot that it was starved of fuel due to evaporation? If that was the case I would be interested in a couple of fuel pumps with manual levers.
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PostPost by: ericbushby » Tue Sep 05, 2017 8:29 am

Good morning Hairy.
As I understand it, the main reason that a hot engine will not start is because the evaporating fuel has filled the airbox and filter with petrol vapour. This is also what causes the petrol smell in the garage for a few hours.
Neat petrol vapour will not burn, only a mixture of fuel vapour and oxygen (air) will burn.
That is why we press the accelerator to the floor when starting from hot, in order to pump the vapour through the engine waiting for the air to arrive.
Also, during that time the pump will replenish the carburettor bowls, but that on it`s own would not be sufficient without purging the intake tract of neat petrol vapour.
I have not tested this theory.
I wonder if someone with trumpets but no airbox or remote filter could comment.
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PostPost by: vincereynard » Tue Sep 05, 2017 11:26 am

HAIRY wrote:Am I right in understanding a fuel pump with a manual lever would overcome the problem of starting a twin cam when it was so hot that it was starved of fuel due to evaporation? If that was the case I would be interested in a couple of fuel pumps with manual levers.


The manual lever is mainly to assist in cold starts where the car has been left for a while so that the carbs etc are empty.
I've no idea about a hot start. It may depend on how long it has been left. Does the fuel evaporate into the airbox like Eric suggests? And / Or evaporate from the carbs leaving them empty?

Toad hasn't staggered far enough for me to tell you yet!
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PostPost by: john.p.clegg » Tue Sep 05, 2017 12:22 pm

My two-penneth ( for what it's worth ) , fit a facet , hidden if you want , ( and pressure regulator ) , instead of having to fiddle about under the bonnet/boot when you want the car to start....

...or am I missing something ?

John :wink:
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PostPost by: Orsom Weels » Tue Sep 05, 2017 3:04 pm

Sorry John, but on this occasion I'm not sure I can agree. After watching an XR3i suffer an under bonnet fire a while ago, where the resultant melting wiring caused the fuel pump to suddenly become live & pump the contents of the fuel tank from it's safe & out of the way place at the back of the car to the by now nearly gone out fire at the front, rekindling it into an inferno & destroying the whole car, I'm a bit nervous of adding this complication to a fibreglass Lotus :shock:
A mechanical pump in good condition with both valves seating & sealing correctly will not allow fuel to drain back, & should be capable of re-filling the float bowls of a pair of Webbers/Dellorto's to the point where the engine will start in very short order. If you have to crank endlessly to get fuel up, there is something wrong with either the pump or the fuel lines.

Just my humble opinion :wink:

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PostPost by: prezoom » Tue Sep 05, 2017 3:12 pm

Not missing a thing John. The last thing I need are dirty hands when I decide to jump in the car for a drive. A flick of the remote switch, and wait for the sound to change as the float bowl fill. A 5 to 10 second delay. That priming Facet saved my bacon last year when the mechanical pump failed while coming home. Worried about fuel entering the engine, but a quick check upon arriving home, 30 minutes later, revealed no fuel had contaminated the oil.
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PostPost by: Grizzly » Tue Sep 05, 2017 3:38 pm

Have to agree with Tim, my 2 seater had quite poor cold starting so i recently fitted a new mechanical pump and if i crank it after a month lay up it will start on the third revolution. My +2 never had a starting issue and i suspect thats because the Tank is high up rather than under the floor in a 2 seater.

Changing the subject slightly, i think every Elan should have at least a 2kg fire extinguisher.... I've had one very near miss in my +2, i was lucky enough to stop right outside a shop who's owner came running out to save the day. To this day that feeling of helplessness as you see the smoke has meant i have made sure i don't find myself in that position again. (sorry for the thread detour)
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PostPost by: billwill » Tue Sep 05, 2017 10:37 pm

john.p.clegg wrote:My two-penneth ( for what it's worth ) , fit a facet , hidden if you want , ( and pressure regulator ) , instead of having to fiddle about under the bonnet/boot when you want the car to start....

...or am I missing something ?

John :wink:



>...or am I missing something ?

Yes an inertia switch 8)
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PostPost by: john.p.clegg » Tue Sep 05, 2017 11:25 pm

Bill
Had one but had to remove it due to cornering G force.

John :wink:
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