servicing my Webers - problem #2

[Johnfm]

I am now beginning to understand why people send components away for repair and servicing.

Having now decided to keep the old bearings in (as the spindle refuses to budge), I rebuilt the carbs last night.

I got to the very last piece of the puzzle - the final idle mixture screw.

For some reason, it has destroyed itself in the duct, the end having twisted off and is blocking the idle duct.



Looks like I need to drill it out. Anyone had to do this before?

*Bangs head against wall.....

[robertverhey]

I replaced my spindles and bearings once because there was air leaking past the bearings, making it impossible to get a good idle.

From memory there was a very small roll pin that needs to be removed (behind that annoying cover you had trouble removing, once that was out the spindle and bearings could be removed...but not without some resistance! Sure enough, the old spindles were "stepped". The new bearings from memory were a new design with built in seal to stop air escaping past the race.

So probably worth persevering if you can do it without causing damage to the expensive weber bodies.

Re the idle mixture screw, it's made of steel and the body it's threaded into is made of relatively soft alloy....so proceed with caution!

Is there any of the screw still protruding? If so I'd apply some heat and then give it a twist with some grips, or carefully hacksaw a slot into the top for a screwdriver blade to grab in....or carefully weld a piece of steel (nail or similar) onto the top to help turn it.....

That's three ideas if it's protruding. If it's broken off below the surface.....hmm that's tricky. A photo might help some ideas form.....

Robert

[twincamman]

Wellll. I spent two years fiddelling around A set of used bargain carbs I changed jets and springs Emulsion tubes and timing and adjusting and built aluminum bits and pieces to keep hot air off Here and there....I put springs to pull and push .I put up with the car not starting or starting and not running correctly fouled plugs etc etc untill in the end I sent 1000 bucks to Dave bean and bought new ones ......the best buy in the auto world ...put them on started it up and have been a much happier person for it .no more therapy or drugs needed .....Ed

[AHM]

I replaced my spindles and bearings once because there was air leaking past the bearings, making it impossible to get a good idle.

Agree, but it is the little leather washer that is the important bit.

For some reason, it has destroyed itself in the duct, the end having twisted off and is blocking the idle duct.

Can you get at it from the other side by the butterfly with a dentists pick? also there is a cross drilling - would removing the lead bung help?

[RichardHawkins]

John,

Join sidedraft central, and seek advice from Keith Franck. He is knowledgable helpful, and may have come across your problem before.

Richard Hawkins

[Johnfm]

I am on side draft.

The needle isn't protruding through the hole. I have a dentists pick - but a watchmaker's punch failed to do it, so not sure a dentist's pick will do it.

0.7mm drill is my last resort.

[twincamman]

Wellll if it's just stuck n the hole a shop Vac tapered down to suck it out or compressed air to blow it out???Perhaps small piece of mechanics wire bent 90. Degrees and needle nose pliers inserted in the intake with the venturie removed. ?It may have caused the jet seat to be deformed and need reseating ..really some times you just have to bite the bullet and send it out to the experts before you make it unusable ...some jobs are beyond we mere mortals ,I know because I have reduced some very expensive parts to junk trying to be super fix it man ...and yes the leather washers are needed and important for a good seal around the shaft ball bearings along with the little metal surrounds .otherwise you will be reading chicken entrails conducting voo doo ceremonies' and praying to heathen Gods and carol shellby and using language not suited for a half a mile from a church or school to get them to work......ed

[Johnfm]

Yep, I think this will need to go for professional repair.

More delays. Very frustrating.

[twincamman]

Smart call they will do it in a flash and cheaply too I bet

[Johnfm]

Found a local engineer who lives 2 miles from my place.

Has a good reputation for race prepping cars, has full laser alignment setup for doign alignment etc.

Perfect. He says he will sort it out - compared to other issues and problems he has seen, this isn't a biggie.

I hope so - I cannot wait to get this started up, tuned and get Keith's tupes and jets etc installed.

[Johnfm]

Sadly, the twisted off bit of the idle mixture screw will not separate from the tapered idle duct. Tried a number of things - so now need a new 40 DCOE 2 body.

But since the 40 DCOE2 isn't the correct carb anyway, I shoudl probably get 18s or 151s, no?