Carb stud removal/fitting

[RichardS]

What is the correct way to remove and refit the carb studs?

My thoughts are to put a couple of nuts on and back the stud off and on this way. Do you need to Loctite them in?

Richard

[twincamman]

put the nuts as close as possible to the head ---we don't want to twist the stud off instead of turning it out do we?--proceed with care ----ed

[jkolb]

Agree with TwinCam Man. If you think you are ever going to do this again, I would recommend installing helicoils in the head. Probably more important on the exhaust side as they give you a little leeway on torquing. Twink heads are really soft.

Jerry

[RichardS]

Thanks Ed and Jerry for the swift replies.

I was going to replace my grubby studs with some nice shiny new ones! But, having read your comments - is it best to leave well alone??!!


Richard

[twincamman]

welll ----if it aint broke-don't fix it ----but if you helicoil them you can use cap head bolts on the headers and safety wire the cap heads and look real racy -- --ed

[CBUEB1771]

My thoughts are to put a couple of nuts on and back the stud off and on this way. Do you need to Loctite them in?

While I don't entirely disagree with Ed and Jerry, this is not a tricky job. I just replaced my carburetor studs about a month ago using the two-nut method you propose. Be careful, certainly, but if you know enough to know the two-nut method you probably won't go wrong. Loctite (blue) is a good idea.

[rgh0]

You can buy a couple of styles of stud extractors from tool shops. The 2 types I have seen are:

1. A large diameter single cam type that fits a large range of stud size grips at only 2 points between the cam and tool body and need a big clearance area around the stud due to the size of the body.

2. A smaller diameter extractor that uses 3 rolling pins on ramps to grip the stud at three points. It looks a lot like a spark plug socket in size and will handle a smaller range of diameters but all the twink studs are the same diameter so you only need 1.

Both use a half inch socket drive - I use the second type. You can get all the studs (carb,exhaust, cam caps) out of a twink head in about 5 minutes with one of these.

cheers
Rohan

[RichardS]

Rohan

I have found the type of stud remover you mention. Draper do them in various sizes - 6mm, 8mm.10mm or 12mm.

Which size would I need?

Thanks

Richard

[CBUEB1771]

Which size would I need?

The carburetor and exhaust manifold studs are both 5/16 inch diameter, or just under 8 mm. The stud extractor tools will generally accommodate a range of diameters.

[RichardS]

Thanks Russ, 8mm it is then! Richard

[alexblack13]

Richard,
Removing these studs is not a problem (normally!) Use the two nut system and lock them well together. Then using the nut closest to the head unscrew anti clock. This has the effect of tightning the nut used against it's locker. Don't over torque. If the stud does not move with moderate force, stop. Think again. Do I need to do this.

Carefull

TIP... Put something in / over the inlet ports to block them off prior to any work as soon as you take the carbs off. This prevents any foreign bod's ending up in your engine. ) I just use some masking tape or duct tape. Try that 1st...


When fitting new ones don't thread them all the way in tight. Use a little locktite on pre cleaned studs and threads. Allow this to set. This makes sure you have enough threaded area to properly seat the lock nuts. Min 1.5 threads protruding. Check the manual for the gap on the thackery washers. Don't whack them all the way up. Carbs must 'float' on (I think) 40 thou (1mm) gap on the thakery washers (spelling!)


Alex B....

[RichardS]

I bought one of these stud extractores from Amazon http://www.amazon.co.uk/exec/obidos/ASIN/B0002GUNHW Haven't used it on the carb studs yet but it was handy for gripping the clutch slave cylinder rod while I removed the adjusting nut this morning. Removing the slave cylinder was a job I had been putting off but the circlip came out fairly easily and it was soon out and on the bench!

Richard