Gas tank sealing
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Well my gas tank decided to start leaking a week ago, so I pulled it and discovered it had been sealed up years ago.
It had rusted through and somebody (probably the navy boys in Panama) had cleaned it up, applied a seal coat of what looks like epoxy then fiberglassed over the whole bottom. The car sat for 20 years in garages before I bought it in 1999, and I have had it on the road since 2001 so the repair wasn't too bad.
I pulled off the fibrerglass and brazed up the holes so it holds water now without weeping, but it really should be sealed so next spring I have to do it all again. I don't have the cash at the moment to get a new tankm, and I would like to someday get a tank with a bladder for a little more safety.
So my question is has anyone used one of the gas tank sealing kits like POR-15 or Eastwood has, and have the had any problems with the fuel outlet pipe getting sealed up by the sealer?
Thanks,
Rob
It had rusted through and somebody (probably the navy boys in Panama) had cleaned it up, applied a seal coat of what looks like epoxy then fiberglassed over the whole bottom. The car sat for 20 years in garages before I bought it in 1999, and I have had it on the road since 2001 so the repair wasn't too bad.
I pulled off the fibrerglass and brazed up the holes so it holds water now without weeping, but it really should be sealed so next spring I have to do it all again. I don't have the cash at the moment to get a new tankm, and I would like to someday get a tank with a bladder for a little more safety.
So my question is has anyone used one of the gas tank sealing kits like POR-15 or Eastwood has, and have the had any problems with the fuel outlet pipe getting sealed up by the sealer?
Thanks,
Rob
- Rob_LaMoreaux
- Second Gear
- Posts: 173
- Joined: 22 Sep 2003
Rob;
I had my tank sealed at a local reputable raditor shop (Radiatorland). Came with a warranty and they used an expoy coating that does not degrade. The shop assured me this coating is used on all OEM metal tank repairs with no problems. I think it was around $75 but that was 4 yrs. ago. No tank issues since. I felt a lot more comfortable with a shop performing this work than me sloshing chemicals around in the tank.
Rgds,
Phil
I had my tank sealed at a local reputable raditor shop (Radiatorland). Came with a warranty and they used an expoy coating that does not degrade. The shop assured me this coating is used on all OEM metal tank repairs with no problems. I think it was around $75 but that was 4 yrs. ago. No tank issues since. I felt a lot more comfortable with a shop performing this work than me sloshing chemicals around in the tank.
Rgds,
Phil
Phil
1968 S4/SE FHC 36-7936
1968 S4/SE FHC 36-7936
- pamitchell
- Third Gear
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- Joined: 11 Sep 2003
Hi Rob,
I used the por-15 kit on a Europa tank once. It worked fine . I did not have any problems with the sealer clogging the pipe. Things to do - make sure you follow the directions to the letter - start with as clean a tank as you can manage. I recall forcing air through the tank to keep the passages clear - I used a tank vacume with the hose attached to outlet to supply the tank with air via the filler inlet pipe ( duct-tape to make the seal) I think you can also use compressed air back down the fuel pipe outlet to keep it clear
I used the por-15 kit on a Europa tank once. It worked fine . I did not have any problems with the sealer clogging the pipe. Things to do - make sure you follow the directions to the letter - start with as clean a tank as you can manage. I recall forcing air through the tank to keep the passages clear - I used a tank vacume with the hose attached to outlet to supply the tank with air via the filler inlet pipe ( duct-tape to make the seal) I think you can also use compressed air back down the fuel pipe outlet to keep it clear
- cabc26b
- Fourth Gear
- Posts: 903
- Joined: 21 Sep 2003
Rob
I reoaired my tank about 10 years ago using a vinyle based product - braze up obvious rust thrus, pour it in - roll it about - pour out excess. I would suggest you also refinish the exterior tank bottom with a spray bomb of rubberish undercoat as well - I think that moist air stays trapped in the void to the body envelope and exasperates the problem.
This worked fine for me.
Bill
I reoaired my tank about 10 years ago using a vinyle based product - braze up obvious rust thrus, pour it in - roll it about - pour out excess. I would suggest you also refinish the exterior tank bottom with a spray bomb of rubberish undercoat as well - I think that moist air stays trapped in the void to the body envelope and exasperates the problem.
This worked fine for me.
Bill
-
Bill - Third Gear
- Posts: 371
- Joined: 05 Oct 2003
I used the Eastwood product on my S2, and it seems to be fine. However, it's vital to let it sit for at least as long as the instructions indicate, to avoid the clogging problem
Art
Art
Art Frederick
S2 Roadster, built in 1965, registered in 1966, No. 26/4934
Nothing else of interest at present
S2 Roadster, built in 1965, registered in 1966, No. 26/4934
Nothing else of interest at present
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frearther - Third Gear
- Posts: 375
- Joined: 23 Sep 2003
Thanks. I ordered the Eastwood kit today.
I'm painting the outside of the tank with rust resistant primer and paint. I also intend to get some rubber grommets to lift the tank a bit off the boot floor to allow it to stay dry.
The previous fiberglass job on the tank actually held quite well and the only rust was near the leak. The fiberglass in that area had been damageed when the local radiator shop welded a new stud on after I broke the stud.
Before brazing the holes I washed the tank out a couple of times with soapy water making sure the water filled the tank pushing any fumes out. Then I let it set for a week before washing it again just ot make sure no more fumes were in it.
I think I might set my compressors regulator to a few psi and then hook it up to the fuel outlet while the coating dries just to make sure it doesn't get sealed up.
Thanks,
Rob
I'm painting the outside of the tank with rust resistant primer and paint. I also intend to get some rubber grommets to lift the tank a bit off the boot floor to allow it to stay dry.
The previous fiberglass job on the tank actually held quite well and the only rust was near the leak. The fiberglass in that area had been damageed when the local radiator shop welded a new stud on after I broke the stud.
Before brazing the holes I washed the tank out a couple of times with soapy water making sure the water filled the tank pushing any fumes out. Then I let it set for a week before washing it again just ot make sure no more fumes were in it.
I think I might set my compressors regulator to a few psi and then hook it up to the fuel outlet while the coating dries just to make sure it doesn't get sealed up.
Thanks,
Rob
- Rob_LaMoreaux
- Second Gear
- Posts: 173
- Joined: 22 Sep 2003
I think I might set my compressors regulator to a few psi and then hook it up to the fuel outlet while the coating dries just to make sure it doesn't get sealed up.
Sounds like a good idea. I think I used a fan thro the filler.
Art Frederick
S2 Roadster, built in 1965, registered in 1966, No. 26/4934
Nothing else of interest at present
S2 Roadster, built in 1965, registered in 1966, No. 26/4934
Nothing else of interest at present
-
frearther - Third Gear
- Posts: 375
- Joined: 23 Sep 2003
What I meant to say is that your idea is good. I think I used a fan thru the filler neck. I haven't figured out that "quote" button yet, I guess.
Art
Art
Art Frederick
S2 Roadster, built in 1965, registered in 1966, No. 26/4934
Nothing else of interest at present
S2 Roadster, built in 1965, registered in 1966, No. 26/4934
Nothing else of interest at present
-
frearther - Third Gear
- Posts: 375
- Joined: 23 Sep 2003
Many years ago (maybe 20-years) my tank leaked a little. I sanded off all exerior surfaces to bare metal and simply encapsulated the entire exterior of the tank with a carefully laid layer of glass matt and polyester resin. It never leaked and I have never had any fuel system clogging issues. Having done this, I now plan to replace the tank with a new one, preferrably one made of stainless steel or aluminum.
Bill
Bill
- bill308
- Fourth Gear
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