Fuel line thread sizes please
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I've conceded it's impossible (with shell on) to thread the standard black plastic front to rear fuel pipe through correct top hole in backbone.
So after a suggestion on here I'm going to run a length of 5/16" or 1/4" Kunifer steel pipe through chassis and where it exits front and rear it will be connected to Aeroquip braided hose through to tank and AC fuel pump.
My local motorsport/fuel systems man wants to supply the correct bits obviously so I need the sizes of the inlet to the glass domed AC pump (I guess 1/2 unf) and the size and thread of the male (on the banjo) out of tank (this is smaller diameter and finer) Car is '68 +2 I've checked manual and can't see the sizes.
Thanks,
Kenny
So after a suggestion on here I'm going to run a length of 5/16" or 1/4" Kunifer steel pipe through chassis and where it exits front and rear it will be connected to Aeroquip braided hose through to tank and AC fuel pump.
My local motorsport/fuel systems man wants to supply the correct bits obviously so I need the sizes of the inlet to the glass domed AC pump (I guess 1/2 unf) and the size and thread of the male (on the banjo) out of tank (this is smaller diameter and finer) Car is '68 +2 I've checked manual and can't see the sizes.
Thanks,
Kenny
- kenny
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Ok. I hope I've sorted the problem of trying to fit a standard Lotus fuel line through the body, I'm not!!!!
I've just purchased the bits required which I think will work as my alternative but comments are welcome whether good or bad.
I'm using 5/16" Kunifer runnining the length of chassis and swaged out on ends a couple of inches past where it exits. For the tank end I've had a length of aeroquip steel braided hose made up with the 1/4 BSP self sealing female for the tank crimped on, the other end to be jubilee clipped over swage.
At the carb end its similar, Aeroquip over the swaged kunifer before it enters the engine bay and atatched to standard fitting on pump.
I am just figuring the best way to secure the assembley in a couple of places, is it possible there is a built in clip in the new chassis accessible through a grommet, I ask this as previous guy has premeturely sound deadened and carpeted tunnel and it seems a pity to destroy it for no reason. I think it would be OK just to secure it near the tank and a clip where it enters engine bay as I can't see steel pipe moving much in the backbone.
Thanks,
Kenny
I've just purchased the bits required which I think will work as my alternative but comments are welcome whether good or bad.
I'm using 5/16" Kunifer runnining the length of chassis and swaged out on ends a couple of inches past where it exits. For the tank end I've had a length of aeroquip steel braided hose made up with the 1/4 BSP self sealing female for the tank crimped on, the other end to be jubilee clipped over swage.
At the carb end its similar, Aeroquip over the swaged kunifer before it enters the engine bay and atatched to standard fitting on pump.
I am just figuring the best way to secure the assembley in a couple of places, is it possible there is a built in clip in the new chassis accessible through a grommet, I ask this as previous guy has premeturely sound deadened and carpeted tunnel and it seems a pity to destroy it for no reason. I think it would be OK just to secure it near the tank and a clip where it enters engine bay as I can't see steel pipe moving much in the backbone.
Thanks,
Kenny
- kenny
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Kenny
1 If you can thread a steel pipe through the tunnel you could use this(or even a length of stiff wire) to draw the correct pipe through,or am I missing something?
2 I am sure some smartarse will chip in about harmonics of a three? foot length of steel tube running through the backbone?
John
1 If you can thread a steel pipe through the tunnel you could use this(or even a length of stiff wire) to draw the correct pipe through,or am I missing something?
2 I am sure some smartarse will chip in about harmonics of a three? foot length of steel tube running through the backbone?
John
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john.p.clegg - Coveted Fifth Gear
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Good points John. I haven't yet tried to get the steel pipe through, but it looks a darn sight easier than trying to thread bendy plastic tube with the body on. You are right to ask about why not pull the plastic through with the steel pipe, but my reasoning for this is that if I cant secure it inside the backbone then I'd rather have rigid tube clamped either end, it won't go anywhere then or chaffe itself.................................ok, ok, ok I'll admit it, I just want braided fuel line entering the engine bay
Kenny
PS If anyone mentions harmonics I will keep a straight face I promise
Kenny
PS If anyone mentions harmonics I will keep a straight face I promise
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john.p.clegg wrote: I am sure some smartarse will chip in about harmonics of a three? foot length of steel tube:
Well if they were I doubt they will now
a
.......and anyway! what about all that extra weight
Last edited by types26/36 on Thu Dec 07, 2006 3:58 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Brian
64 S2 Roadster
72 Sprint FHC
64 S2 Roadster
72 Sprint FHC
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types26/36 - Coveted Fifth Gear
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kenny wrote:...ok, ok, ok I'll admit it, I just want braided fuel line entering the engine bay
Kenny,
I can assure you that unless you plan on running the car without carburetors, your braided fuel line entering the fuel pump will be almost impossible to see from up top. Standard rubber fuel hose clamped between a 5 foot piece of brake pipe from the tank and a short piece of brake pipe (before it becomes visable as it comes out from under the chassis) which in turn goes into the fuel pump works and looks just fine. But if you just have to have some Aeroquip in your car, well, it's your car!
Frank Howard
'71 S4 SE
Minnesota
'71 S4 SE
Minnesota
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I know where your coming from Frank. I did put a "wink" at the end of my statement re. the Aeroquip.
As I could only order the braid in 1 metre lengths there will be enough spare to do the lot, seems daft to splash out on extra rubber tubing.
All the best ,
Kenny
As I could only order the braid in 1 metre lengths there will be enough spare to do the lot, seems daft to splash out on extra rubber tubing.
All the best ,
Kenny
- kenny
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- Joined: 17 Nov 2006
john.p.clegg wrote:Kenny
1 If you can thread a steel pipe through the tunnel you could use this(or even a length of stiff wire) to draw the correct pipe through,or am I missing something?
2 I am sure some smartarse will chip in about harmonics of a three? foot length of steel tube running through the backbone?
John
Not a smartarse response, just one of experience. Decades and more than 100,000 miles ago I put a 3/8" OD stainless steel tube in the tunnel of my +2S for the fuel line. I used a bulkhead fitting at the back end and a simple rubber grommet at the front. That way chassis flexure (negligible, true) couldn't put tensile or compressive loads on the tube. I added Swagelok compression-to-AN flare adapters on both ends and then ran 5/16" Aeroquip hose to the tank and mecahnical fuel pump. I don't recall if the fuel pump thread is 1/4 BSP or 1/2-20 UNF. I have never had a problem with the dreaded harmonics. But there is almost enough information here for someone to go to town. Simple beam, rigid support at one end, simple support at the other.
Russ Newton
Elan +2S (1971)
Elite S2 (1962)
Elan +2S (1971)
Elite S2 (1962)
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CBUEB1771 - Coveted Fifth Gear
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