Engine Re Build
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I am in the process of rebuilding the bottom end of the T/C engine, and the manuals make reference to the spigot bearing within the big end of the rear crank.
I cannot find it and nor did it appear when dismantling- I have the 6 bolt crank and can anyone help clarify this part and how it is set into the crank.
I have lightly honed the bores and reassembled the pistons with new rings, and the crank turns over smoothly with some resistance by hand- can anyone give guidnace as to the extent or resistance expected-presume as long it turns over smoothly with no scraping sounds or marks on the bores -all is well.
Also does anyone know of any reasonable engine engineers within and around the Bedfordshire area of United Kingdom?-other than QED who seem over the top for T/C head reconditioning
Any advise or comments on others experience appreciated.
Regards
nico
I cannot find it and nor did it appear when dismantling- I have the 6 bolt crank and can anyone help clarify this part and how it is set into the crank.
I have lightly honed the bores and reassembled the pistons with new rings, and the crank turns over smoothly with some resistance by hand- can anyone give guidnace as to the extent or resistance expected-presume as long it turns over smoothly with no scraping sounds or marks on the bores -all is well.
Also does anyone know of any reasonable engine engineers within and around the Bedfordshire area of United Kingdom?-other than QED who seem over the top for T/C head reconditioning
Any advise or comments on others experience appreciated.
Regards
nico
- nico506
- Second Gear
- Posts: 105
- Joined: 12 Sep 2003
Nico,
The spigot bearing is in the end of the crank, in the centre of the flywheel mounting flange. It supports the front of the first motion shaft (thats the one that comes out of the gearbox) On a 6 bolt crankshaft it is a needle roller bearing, it can be difficult to get out as you normally destroy it removing it. The needle bearings are enclosed in a thin outer case and I have ended up chiseling out the case.I have even resorted to heating with a welding tourch. In the 4 bolt crank it is a bush and this can be removed by filling with grease and hitting a wooden drift of the same bore to force it out, I have found this method not to work with the needle bearing, proberbly there is a special tool but I have'nt seen one.
Engine turning over by hand sounds fine but you will get some resistance with the pistons and rings fitted.
rgds Brian
The spigot bearing is in the end of the crank, in the centre of the flywheel mounting flange. It supports the front of the first motion shaft (thats the one that comes out of the gearbox) On a 6 bolt crankshaft it is a needle roller bearing, it can be difficult to get out as you normally destroy it removing it. The needle bearings are enclosed in a thin outer case and I have ended up chiseling out the case.I have even resorted to heating with a welding tourch. In the 4 bolt crank it is a bush and this can be removed by filling with grease and hitting a wooden drift of the same bore to force it out, I have found this method not to work with the needle bearing, proberbly there is a special tool but I have'nt seen one.
Engine turning over by hand sounds fine but you will get some resistance with the pistons and rings fitted.
rgds Brian
Brian
64 S2 Roadster
72 Sprint FHC
64 S2 Roadster
72 Sprint FHC
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types26/36 - Coveted Fifth Gear
- Posts: 3406
- Joined: 11 Sep 2003
These guys are in Hinkley <a href='http://www.wilcoxengines.demon.co.uk/default.htm' target='_blank'>http://www.wilcoxengines.demon.co.uk/default.htm</a>
Depends what services you require? Looks like you have the bottom end sorted, if it is some head work I know a good place in Northampton.
Depends what services you require? Looks like you have the bottom end sorted, if it is some head work I know a good place in Northampton.
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steveww - Coveted Fifth Gear
- Posts: 1259
- Joined: 18 Sep 2003
Re: Rotational resistance of new/rebuilt piston-crank assembly.
In David Vizard's book "Tuning Twin Cam Fords", it is recommended that the crank should rotate with a torque not exceeding 8 ft-lb. The torque is applied with a torque wrench on the crank pulley bolt. It is indicated that if the assembly job has been done really well, the torque will be as low as 4 ft-lb.
David - 72 Sprint DHC
In David Vizard's book "Tuning Twin Cam Fords", it is recommended that the crank should rotate with a torque not exceeding 8 ft-lb. The torque is applied with a torque wrench on the crank pulley bolt. It is indicated that if the assembly job has been done really well, the torque will be as low as 4 ft-lb.
David - 72 Sprint DHC
- dlbarnes1
- Second Gear
- Posts: 71
- Joined: 22 Sep 2003
Hi,
John Smurfwait (J & S Motorsport) did the head on my twin cam. Good price and I am very pleased with the performance. I, as you, did the bottom end myself, J & S did the head and supplied a high pressure oil pump and they also timed the head onto the block after I had fitted it.
If you want the phone number, let me know and I will sort it out.
Regards,
Nick
1969 Elan 2+2 S
John Smurfwait (J & S Motorsport) did the head on my twin cam. Good price and I am very pleased with the performance. I, as you, did the bottom end myself, J & S did the head and supplied a high pressure oil pump and they also timed the head onto the block after I had fitted it.
If you want the phone number, let me know and I will sort it out.
Regards,
Nick
1969 Elan 2+2 S
- Nick Godfrey
- First Gear
- Posts: 21
- Joined: 12 Sep 2003
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