TC exhaust and carb studs

[jono]

Can anyone advise of a stud supplier or suppliers of complete stud kits for the above please?

The usual suspects show them as individual items but the seem to be very expensive for what they are.

There are supposed 'kits' on Ebay but one look tells you the threaded and blind portions are too long or short. I seem to recall buying studs for an A series lupmp from a specialist stud supply online who showed all the threaded lengths and lengths of the blind portions so you could make the right choice but I can seem to find them.

Cheers

Jon

[ericbushby]

Hi Jon,
Have you tried Sue Miller, she usually has everything and if not she will advise you.
For the exhaust I changed the studs for 1" UNC Allen screws. This gives a lot more clearance for fitting the exhaust pipes.
Eric in Burnley
1967 S3SE DHC

[alan.barker]

Hi Jono,
What price are we talking about.
Alan

[tonyabacus]

Hello Jon
Eric's stud change is something we used to do back in the day on the racers to give better access and a speedy manifold removal. However make sure you use an appropriate grease for aluminium/steel if you are not going to be removing the manifold regularly, otherwise over a longer period the bolts can become difficult to remove due the incompatibility of the two different metals.

Preferably use an anti seized compound rather than grease something like Permatex 80078 from memory

Perhaps Rohan may have thoughts on this if he reads your question.There is info on the internet which will explain in better detail which grease to use and the reasons why.
Tony

[alanr]

I use Alumslip but you could alternatively Ceramic Heat Paste.

Alan.

[rgh0]

I use Loctite Nikel antisieze on the exhaust hex socket head bolts i use.

cheers
Rohan

[alan.barker]

Jono,
Surely you don't need a full set of Inlet Studs and Exhaust.
Alan

[RichardHawkins]

Jono,

I have just done a google search for 5/16 UNF/UNC studs. I don’t know what thread lengths and overall length you need, but there seems to be quite a few people selling these things.

I strongly advise taking Rohan’s advice for the exhaust and changing to socket head or hex head set screws, so much easier to fit the exhaust. I was needing to repair some of the threads in my cylinder head, so fitted Helicoils and used a DuPont high temp lubricant which sounds similar to Rohan’s advice. I also used stainless set screws, as stainless is not just corrosion resistant it is also heat resistant. If I remember what my metallurgy lecturer said correctly, metallurgists were designing heat resistant steels and discovered they were also corrosion resistant.

Hope this helps,

Richard Hawkins

[alan.barker]

For the Exhaust Manifold i always adjust the distance/pitch between Stud holes before fitting to the Engine. This prevents straining/grunting/groaning and forcing Screws or Studs into badly aligned holes which is what damages the threads in the Cylinderhead.
As for choosing to fit Studs or Screws that's a personal choice.
Alan

[RichardHawkins]

Jono,

I have looked up the lubricant I am using for my exhaust manifold bolts. I bought it in 2016, and my notes say it is Univar SC Reference1342 Dow Molycote P37. Cost was £36.

I said previously that it was a DuPont product, I shall try to remember to check the name on the tub.

Richard Hawkins

[alan.barker]

I find "Copperslip" grease ok
Alan

[jono]

Many thanks for all the suggestions chaps.

I've managed to find the 'best fit' studs from various online suppliers - finding ones with the correct plain shank dimension was tricky but they should be okay.

I'm doing a standard resto (Plus 2) so will stick with studs for the exhaust - it's a bit of a fiddle but I've usually managed to fit the manifold with this arrangement with a bit of jiggling, and the the odd swear word!

Thanks again for all the comments.

Jon

[alan.barker]

+1 Jono.
Nice clean threads in the Head.
Manifold Stud holes adjusted before fitting.
Put Manifold in place.
Take Studs with a little copperslip on thread, slip Gasket between Manifold Flange and Head.
Screw Studs in with your Fingers.
Next Spring Washers and brass Nuts assemble +tighten.
Alan