Twin cam leaking

[Jens Jeppsson]

How do you do fellow oil wasters!

I have an Elan +2 in custody since 2004 when my father passed and since then it's been leaking oil, 20 years ago it wasn't bad but now it feels like oil is running straight through... My plan is to lift out the enginge and change front/rear main seals (and all the other gaskets that follows with that), oil pan gasket (engine is a big valve engine so I suppose it doesn't have rope seals?), cam cover gasket. Is there any other points where you could suspect oil leaks from? Really tried to look for the source without success and I'm not too keen on getting under the car with a running engine with the car on jackstands. Changed the clutch slave cylinder a couple of years back so I know that's not a culprit anymore Will also change engine mounts and some other parts while at it. I think the waterpump was changed not long before my father passed since I know he had the engine out checking pistons, rings repainting block and more.

The car hasn't been driven that much for the last 20 years and is stored in a heated garage so it really is in an overall good state, of course there are more things that will need attention. Resto was made between 89 to 91 if I remember correctly. When the car was bought back in 1989 the car had only ran about 65000km in total and less than 10000km since it last had a full engine overhaul (Cosworth pistons, race spec camshafts and propably much much more), it's not the original engine though.

Sincerely Jens

[Andy8421]

To borrow a much overused expression, "They all do that, Sir"

A common source of leaks is the rubber drain / breather tube that runs between the head and the block on the left of the carbs.

You mention you father had the head off. Its quite easy to make a mistake in the installation of this pipe when you put the head back on, and it can leak badly.

[JonB]

Clean the engine and run it for a while. You’ll be able to see where oil is leaking form.

[512BB]

If you are taking the engine out, you should take the opportunity to replace ALL gaskets, bungs, core plugs etc. and the water pump, if it was last changed about 20 years ago. Whilst the bearing may still be in good order, the seal COULD begin to leak at any time after that period of time, and sods law says that if you do not replace it, as soon as the engine goes back in, it will leak.

I would also compression test the engine hot before dismantling, just to see if all is okay prior to strip down.

You should read up on what modern sealants are now used to build these engines.

Leslie

[Jens Jeppsson]

To borrow a much overused expression, "They all do that, Sir"

A common source of leaks is the rubber drain / breather tube that runs between the head and the block on the left of the carbs.

You mention you father had the head off. Its quite easy to make a mistake in the installation of this pipe when you put the head back on, and it can leak badly.

Thanks for the suggestion! I might have to check that out, is it possible to remove and replace the breather tube without lifting the head?

[Jens Jeppsson]

Clean the engine and run it for a while. You’ll be able to see where oil is leaking form.

Thanks for giving me advice. I have done that a couple of times but I have not been able to locate the source. Alas it was a couple of years ago I last did it. It really looks like someone sprayed the enginevwith oil underneath. Come to think of it there could be more oil on the right side of the engine/ beneath the carbs which ouod suggest a fault breather tube.

Thnks again!

[Jens Jeppsson]

If you are taking the engine out, you should take the opportunity to replace ALL gaskets, bungs, core plugs etc. and the water pump, if it was last changed about 20 years ago. Whilst the bearing may still be in good order, the seal COULD begin to leak at any time after that period of time, and sods law says that if you do not replace it, as soon as the engine goes back in, it will leak.

I would also compression test the engine hot before dismantling, just to see if all is okay prior to strip down.

You should read up on what modern sealants are now used to build these engines.

Leslie

yeaaah... It would be according to all known laws of everything if the seal at the pump starts leaking after I put it back without changing the waterpump. Food for thought.

I believe compression is in order but will do a compression test.

Will ask my son, who's been working at a car mechanic for the past 5 months, he might know otherwise I'm convinced his boss knows what sealants to use.

Big thanks!

[Andy8421]

Thanks for the suggestion! I might have to check that out, is it possible to remove and replace the breather tube without lifting the head?

Jens,

The breather/drain and its replacement with or without the head is the subject of many threads on here. I find using Google to search is the best way to find stuff. Just as an example:

https://lotuselan.net/forums/viewtopic.php?f=39&t=40605&start=

Good luck.

[2cams70]

I’m going to disagree with everyone here and say you really need to try harder to identify the source of the leak. Get under the car. Put it on ramps if you don’t feel secure getting underneath. You could probably get a pair for 40GBP. If the engine has only done 10,000kms since a full rebuild it’s nuts pulling it all apart again. 20 years in a heated garage isn’t going to hurt it that much. Run it for a while to assess exactly what it needs before pulling it down if that is what you wish to do. You might change your mind if it’s just an easy to fix leak. Of course give it a full service - oil, clearances, plugs, points, etc. before doing so and monitor it very carefully.

I'd be way more concerned about the condition of the brakes than the engine if the car had been sitting for 20 years. Brake fluid sitting around absorbing moisture doesn't do brake cylinders any good.

[Jens Jeppsson]

I’m going to disagree with everyone here and say you really need to try harder to identify the source of the leak. Get under the car. Put it on ramps if you don’t feel secure getting underneath. You could probably get a pair for 40GBP. If the engine has only done 10,000kms since a full rebuild it’s nuts pulling it all apart again. 20 years in a heated garage isn’t going to hurt it that much. Run it for a while to assess exactly what it needs before pulling it down if that is what you wish to do. You might change your mind if it’s just an easy to fix leak. Of course give it a full service - oil, clearances, plugs, points, etc. before doing so and monitor it very carefully.

I'd be way more concerned about the condition of the brakes than the engine if the car had been sitting for 20 years. Brake fluid sitting around absorbing moisture doesn't do brake cylinders any good.

Thanks for your input. I might be able to borrow a greasepit, would be easy to get under with engine running. I thought it would be easier spotting an oil leak with the engine out, guess I was wrong

Brakes will get an overhaul, new seals and pistons for the rear calipers while I think the front calipers are in better nick. The car has been driven very little over the last 20 years, a couple of times every summer. I have fixed whatever needed to be fixed when I've noticed a problem, overhauled the carbs last summer and put in a new starter motor, stuff like that.

Thanks again

[Jens Jeppsson]

Thanks for the suggestion! I might have to check that out, is it possible to remove and replace the breather tube without lifting the head?

Jens,

The breather/drain and its replacement with or without the head is the subject of many threads on here. I find using Google to search is the best way to find stuff. Just as an example:

https://lotuselan.net/forums/viewtopic.php?f=39&t=40605&start=

Good luck.

Thank you very much Andy!