engine damage finally repaired

PostPost by: checkrail » Mon Jan 15, 2024 2:36 pm

i've just about repaired and replaced where necessary on my engine, but of course now it will not fire.
The cams are in the correct position with the sprocket marks as near as damn it level the rotor arm points to no.one terminal, but i wish i didn't have electronic ignition so i could time the dizzy easily, i slowly twisted it left and right but nothing , if no.1 plug is laid on the cam cover bolt there is a healthy spark when the engine is turned over.
The plugs smell of petrol but i gave them a slight blast before i fitted them, also the engine is well earhed
On a positive note i was pleased how well the engine turned over by hand with the new components

I just had a nasty feeling that it wasn't going to start regards John
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PostPost by: Craven » Mon Jan 15, 2024 2:49 pm

Usual one here is you are not on #1’s compression stroke. Cam lobes on #4 facing each other.
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PostPost by: Hawksfield » Mon Jan 15, 2024 8:21 pm

John
If your cams are correct you can swing the dizzy around the No1 plug cap contact. And get a spark you will hear the crack. Be sure the carbon bush is till in place they can get nocked out when fitting the cap
Your nearly there.
John
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PostPost by: checkrail » Tue Jan 16, 2024 8:31 am

Yes the cams are correct on the firing stroke, will try swinging the dizzy

John
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PostPost by: mark030358 » Tue Jan 16, 2024 9:31 am

You should get a spark rotating the dizzy, even if it’s an electronic unit. I can for sure on mine.

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PostPost by: 2cams70 » Tue Jan 16, 2024 9:40 am

Be sure to rotate the distributor in the correct direction if you are attempting to time ignition statically. Distributor cam rotates anti clockwise so you should be rotating it clockwise when you get the spark.
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PostPost by: checkrail » Tue Jan 16, 2024 3:02 pm

There is no sign of a spark in any position, I've checked all the wires and terminals

John
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PostPost by: h20hamelan » Tue Jan 16, 2024 3:16 pm

Is everything set correctly as per manual (s)?
Your coil has the correct + -
Measured 12+v at coil

Maybe you removed a ground from the coil, going to engine. Or…?
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PostPost by: Craven » Tue Jan 16, 2024 3:20 pm

Personally I have had little success in static timing with these internal distributor units. Precise timing is not needed to get running + or - 10 deg of TDC will run OK. Not mixed up your firing order have you.
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PostPost by: checkrail » Tue Jan 16, 2024 5:05 pm

The plug leads are numbered and still attached to the cap

John
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PostPost by: Hawksfield » Tue Jan 16, 2024 6:17 pm

John
Looking back at your original statement you said you had spark at No1 when you turned it over.
To me that says you are firing at the wrong dizzy position.

Set the engine at round ten degrees BTDC firing No1. No4 cams facing each other.
Then trace the No1 lead from plug to the cap position to determine if your dizzy is actually firing at the correct position. you may have to correct it.
If its correct, you slightly swing the dizzy you should here it crack when it fires in the ACW direction.
Good luck
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PostPost by: rgh0 » Tue Jan 16, 2024 11:00 pm

Some of the electronic units will not swith on and trigger unless a minimum rpm is reached. I understand this is to prevent them over heating if the engine stops in the wrong place and the ignition is left on.
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PostPost by: 2cams70 » Wed Jan 17, 2024 9:19 am

Hawksfield wrote:f its correct, you slightly swing the dizzy you should here it crack when it fires in the ACW direction.


Distributor should be rotated clockwise whilst static timing because rotor rotates anticlockwise.
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PostPost by: checkrail » Wed Jan 17, 2024 12:01 pm

Another problem now, when i rotate the the engine on the crank bolt there is a loud rattle from the timing chain.
As well as the new chain it has new tensioner pad and sprocket bolt, I cannot see anything wrong,adjusting the tension makes no difference, the chain is not touching the edge of the new QED timing cover.
Why is it suddenly doing this

Thanks John
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PostPost by: JonB » Wed Jan 17, 2024 12:50 pm

From the timing chain, are you sure? Assuming you set the tension properly… maybe the slipper (pad) fell off the tensioner arm?
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