Crank pulley removal

[stugilmour]

I am trying to figure out what I will need to install a QED pulley / trigger wheel on my TC. Engine build includes a Burton tall block front cover for their cassette water pump and the popular NipponDenso alternator bracket. Engine is presently installed in a Plus 2 with a Spyder frame. I haven’t received any of my QED parts yet, which includes the front pulley and a CPS bracket that attaches to three of the sump fasteners.

Will I need some kind of puller to remove the pulley? I am assuming I will first have to remove the radiator and slightly raise the engine after removing the Spyder engine mount arm bolts.

I assume I position the stock pulley timing notch at TDC and “simply” replace it with the QED item. Will the pulley easily go on and of the key as I fiddle with things to properly grind off one of the trigger teeth?

Hopefully the QED pulley won’t require a belt change. Not sure yet if belt installation will be harder with the trigger teeth on the front of the pulley. What with the aftermarket alternator my belt is already extremely difficult to fit, and the next longest size causes the alternator to foul the Plus 2 steering shaft.

I am probably guilty of over thinking things, but it looks pretty tight down there. As I will be doing oil and coolant service at the same time I am hoping to have everything to hand before I start.

Thanks in advance.

[MACCA.GLM]

Hi
you should not need a puller to remove engine pulley if its been fitted correctly

Cheers

g

[stugilmour]

Excellent. Thanks for getting back. Will post results when the stuff arrives.

Stu

[512BB]

'you should not need a puller to remove engine pulley if its been fitted correctly'

Well, I would certainly be interested to learn how you remove the front crankshaft pulley without using a puller.

Leslie

[MACCA.GLM]

Should not be interference
Should be transition. Unless it’s rusted on it should come off without major force as mine did 12 months ago

Regards
G

[2cams70]

The pulley should be a sliding fit. At most it will just require a small amount of persuasion with two screwdrivers as leverage on opposite sides of the pulley. Make sure you tighten the bolt using a torque wrench set to the correct figure. I have found this bolt to have come loose in the past despite being tightened to the correct torque. Since then I’ve always also put a drop of medium strength Loctite on the threads.

[JonB]

I had to use a puller on mine. But then, it’s probably not been off since it was built.

[512BB]

Quite why you would want to try to remove a front pulley using anything other than the correct tool for the job just beats me, especially on a now rare, original cast pulley, the rims of which are fragile and easily chipped.

Personally I would only use a 3 leg puller, but each to their own. I have found that a front pulley that has been in place for many years, and or many thousands of miles, will generally not just pop off without some persuasion.

Use the correct tools for a specific job people, you know it makes sense.

Leslie

[Donels]

Agreed. I needed a puller to get mine off.

[alan.barker]

Never used a Puller and you shouldn't need one. As said sliding fit no taper.
Alan

[Quart Meg Miles]

Stu is hoping not to remove the engine, pullers are no good for in situ removals. Leverage behind the rim is preferred and I don't think his engine is a virgin so it probably isn't too tight.

[Craven]

Use caution pulling on a thin rim of cast material.

[smo17003]

Use caution pulling on a thin rim of cast material.

Exactly this. I would also caution against using a hydraulic puller; you can't "feel" the force that you're winding in.

Using the puller as per Leslie's example, if the pulley starts to move with just gentle force, all good. If not, back it off and insert some strips of flat steel between the jaws and the pulley rim. That should help spread the load across more of the pulley rim.

I don't recall seeing Ford pulleys with them, but I've certainly seen some crank pulleys that have a couple of threaded holes so that you can screw in a correct puller tool.

[2cams70]

If it is slightly stuck you should still not require a puller. Two screwdrivers either side or taps on alternate sides with a plastic hammer. You may need to rotate the engine for access for alternate taps. Don’t try to pry or tap it from just one side. It may cock to one side and jam if you do. You can use a puller of course if you’ve got access but you shouldn’t need to.

[rgh0]

if the pulley does not come off by hand ( which is usually does on most engines) or using some gentle leverage behind it with a screw driver then i use a bearing splitter rather than a 3 jaw puller to avoid damaging the thin rear rim of the standard cast iron pully. i have a number of cast iron pulley removed from engines that have a chunk out of the rear due to 3 jaw pullers or leveraging to hard with a screw driver near the edge.

Normally only need a puller on an old engine where it has corroded on to the crank nose

cheers
Rohan