Radiator size
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My 68 +2 radiator is striking the bonnet, even without the radiator cap being on.
I've inserted new heat insulation material that is only 10mm thick and it hits that with the bonnet down.
The radiator has been recored by the PO and it looks like the top and bottom tank have been retained but a different core and side frames. The overflow hose comes out the front of the filler neck, but there are holders for a hose on the side frames as well, so this makes me think the side frames aren't original.
The radiator measures approx 540mm wide and 350 high at the widest and tallest points, as far as I can tell. It also looks to be the early wide type radiator.
I can't drop it down any further as it sits 10mm above the fibreglass now.
Before I get it recored to a smaller size, what is the standard size (HxW) for an early wide style radiator?
I've inserted new heat insulation material that is only 10mm thick and it hits that with the bonnet down.
The radiator has been recored by the PO and it looks like the top and bottom tank have been retained but a different core and side frames. The overflow hose comes out the front of the filler neck, but there are holders for a hose on the side frames as well, so this makes me think the side frames aren't original.
The radiator measures approx 540mm wide and 350 high at the widest and tallest points, as far as I can tell. It also looks to be the early wide type radiator.
I can't drop it down any further as it sits 10mm above the fibreglass now.
Before I get it recored to a smaller size, what is the standard size (HxW) for an early wide style radiator?
- Bud5000
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I've looked at the parts manual in the cooling section and the picture (P/N A026K0001) of the radiator matches mine.
So now I'm even more confused as to why it would be taller.
So now I'm even more confused as to why it would be taller.
- Bud5000
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I only know about the 2 seater, but on that the clearance is much less than 10mm, why would you leave a gap?
I would start with removing the insulation where the cap sits, and see if the rest of the radiator clears.
I would start with removing the insulation where the cap sits, and see if the rest of the radiator clears.
- David1953
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With the radiator cap on, it had already worn through the old original heat shield and pressed on the bonnet enough to crack the paint when the bonnet was shut. To me that doesn't seem right, even with some of the less than better Lotus deigns. It doesn't have to be a big gap, I just don't want things rubbing when that can be avoided.
- Bud5000
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Remove screws holding Rad in position.
See if Rad can be lowered. There are different height positions and choice of what holes you use. So easy to choose holes too high.
Alan
See if Rad can be lowered. There are different height positions and choice of what holes you use. So easy to choose holes too high.
Alan
Alan.b Brittany 1972 elan sprint fhc Lagoon Blue 0460E
- alan.barker
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It looks like you have spaced the radiator forward on the original brackets. That means the rad is closer to the bonnet.
The size of the radiator seems OK. The radiator cap should be as low a type as possible especially on Plus 2.
The size of the radiator seems OK. The radiator cap should be as low a type as possible especially on Plus 2.
1972 Elan Sprint FHC
- cliveyboy
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you should not have spacers between rad Flange and Support Flange
Alan
Alan
Alan.b Brittany 1972 elan sprint fhc Lagoon Blue 0460E
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As Monsieur Alan points out, your radiator appears to have spacers fitted, which has moved the rad forward, ie closer to the sloping bonnet. That is probably because you have that plastic fan blade fixed to the water pump pulley, and without the rad being moved forward, that fan blade would not have fitted.
Solution. Remove the plastic fan blade, it is not needed, provided your cooling system is in good order, and stick with the factory fan on the FRONT of the rad, then remove the spacers which will move the rad rearward, hopefully giving enough clearance for the rad cap to fit correctly without it fouling the bonnet.
Leslie
Solution. Remove the plastic fan blade, it is not needed, provided your cooling system is in good order, and stick with the factory fan on the FRONT of the rad, then remove the spacers which will move the rad rearward, hopefully giving enough clearance for the rad cap to fit correctly without it fouling the bonnet.
Leslie
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Maybe the spacers have been put in to clear what looks to me like a non-standard fan?
- Baggy2
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I'll remove the spacers and plastic fan and see how it looks then. I've know idea what the fan is off. (Normal with this car).
The electric fan also looks different to the one in the parts manual, so if anyone recognises it that would be great.
The electric fan also looks different to the one in the parts manual, so if anyone recognises it that would be great.
- Bud5000
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The fan and motor look similar but not identical to the original but the mounting backet for it appears to be home made
cheers
Rohan
cheers
Rohan
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rgh0 - Coveted Fifth Gear
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For not too much money you can get a modern generic 10" or 12" fan that fits directly to the radiator (deleting the DIY fan bracket setup that you appear to have). Or you can spend a bit more on a Revotec/Spal/Kenlowe fan. I would be inclined to remove both fans and fit one of the modern units. That should allow you to move the rad closer to the engine, and you will probably gain in cooling efficiency. There's plenty of discussion and photos on here showing radiator fan fitments.
Cheers
Mike
Cheers
Mike
Mike
1967 S3 FHC
1968 S4 FHC
1967 S3 FHC
1968 S4 FHC
- smo17003
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The orange fan is off a Spitfire I think. The other fan looks a bit like a Europa style, but heck who knows?
A new electric fan mounted on the radiator is the way to go I think. About $50 NZD for a cheap one. Then I can move the radiator to suit. It's had a new core not long ago so didn't want to start mucking around with that.
Thanks everyone for the advice, always helpful, always appreciated.
A new electric fan mounted on the radiator is the way to go I think. About $50 NZD for a cheap one. Then I can move the radiator to suit. It's had a new core not long ago so didn't want to start mucking around with that.
Thanks everyone for the advice, always helpful, always appreciated.
- Bud5000
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Removed the orange fan and checked the Ford part number. Turns out it's off a MK4 Cortina.
I trust nothing on this car.
I trust nothing on this car.
- Bud5000
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hi Bud,
i think you need to check if you have the correct Rad Cap with return Valve. Also small tube to Recouperator Bottle. Tube to bottom of Bottle and end of tube cut at 45°.
A pity this year we are visiting NZ but not Auckland this time. So not possible to pop in for a Lotus chat, never mind.
Alan
i think you need to check if you have the correct Rad Cap with return Valve. Also small tube to Recouperator Bottle. Tube to bottom of Bottle and end of tube cut at 45°.
A pity this year we are visiting NZ but not Auckland this time. So not possible to pop in for a Lotus chat, never mind.
Alan
Alan.b Brittany 1972 elan sprint fhc Lagoon Blue 0460E
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