Engine removal
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A quick question, do I need to remove the starter motor to remove the engine & gearbox. It's been many years since I last took the engine out & my memory isn't as good as it used to be. For some reason I seem to remember that I had to remove the starter motor, but of course don't want to if I don't have to.
Keith Marshall
69 S4 SE DHC RHD Original owner
69 S4 SE DHC RHD Original owner
- saildrive2001
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I am going to remove the engine & gearbox as one unit.
Keith Marshall
69 S4 SE DHC RHD Original owner
69 S4 SE DHC RHD Original owner
- saildrive2001
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- Joined: 29 Oct 2003
Oh sorry, ...I missed the bit that you were talking about taking the engine and gearbox out together!
In that case you might just get it clear without taking the starter off. But why make an extra struggle? it is only a couple of 9/16th's spanner size bolts anyway.
You do realise though that It is much easier to take the engine out and then take the gearbox out separately?
Alan.
In that case you might just get it clear without taking the starter off. But why make an extra struggle? it is only a couple of 9/16th's spanner size bolts anyway.
You do realise though that It is much easier to take the engine out and then take the gearbox out separately?
Alan.
Alan
'71 +2 S130/ 5speed Type9.
'71 +2 S130/ 5speed Type9.
- alanr
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I find it enough of a challenge to align & rejoin the engine & gearbox outside the car, I can't really see how to do it in the car. I know several people on this forum feel that removing them separately is easier.
Keith Marshall
69 S4 SE DHC RHD Original owner
69 S4 SE DHC RHD Original owner
- saildrive2001
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- Joined: 29 Oct 2003
How is removing engine separate, then installing the matted pair together?
Born, and brought home from the hospital (no seat belt (wtf)) in a baby!
Find out where the limits are, and start from there
Love your Mother
Earth
Find out where the limits are, and start from there
Love your Mother
Earth
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h20hamelan - Coveted Fifth Gear
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- Joined: 25 Sep 2010
I've always removed & reinstalled the engine & gearbox together, about 3 or 4 times in all, over 54 years.
You need a very high lift point because the pair end up nearly vertical before you can lift the tail to clear the front fibre-glass.
Don't forget to drain the gearbox of oil because otherwise it will pour out of the propshaft hole. & probably you should drain the engine of oil too.
You need a very high lift point because the pair end up nearly vertical before you can lift the tail to clear the front fibre-glass.
Don't forget to drain the gearbox of oil because otherwise it will pour out of the propshaft hole. & probably you should drain the engine of oil too.
Bill Williams
36/6725 S3 Coupe OGU108E Yellow over Black.
36/6725 S3 Coupe OGU108E Yellow over Black.
- billwill
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Hi
I did that job 4 months ago and took the engine out first. I took off the carbs the alternator and the starter Motor it gives you more room to work.you can the remove the gearbox after draining the oil.
As someone said earlier to take them out as a whole you need a very high room and lift almost vertical.
Replacing the engine is not hard put two 2inch long 3/8 unc I think studs in the back two engine threads below the head and make sure you have aligned the clutch(If you have dismantled that) and lift the gear box slightly you should be ok
Good luck
g
I did that job 4 months ago and took the engine out first. I took off the carbs the alternator and the starter Motor it gives you more room to work.you can the remove the gearbox after draining the oil.
As someone said earlier to take them out as a whole you need a very high room and lift almost vertical.
Replacing the engine is not hard put two 2inch long 3/8 unc I think studs in the back two engine threads below the head and make sure you have aligned the clutch(If you have dismantled that) and lift the gear box slightly you should be ok
Good luck
g
- MACCA.GLM
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Just removed the engine & gearbox as one unit. Needed to remove the starter motor & the clutch slave cyl.
The reason for removal was to find out why there was noise when I depressed the clutch. The clutch release bearing is toast, totally seized & after only around 12,000 miles since I rebuilt the whole car. It looks like it might have lightly scored the triangular part that it bears against. Need to decide whether it needs to be refaced & how to get it done.
The reason for removal was to find out why there was noise when I depressed the clutch. The clutch release bearing is toast, totally seized & after only around 12,000 miles since I rebuilt the whole car. It looks like it might have lightly scored the triangular part that it bears against. Need to decide whether it needs to be refaced & how to get it done.
Keith Marshall
69 S4 SE DHC RHD Original owner
69 S4 SE DHC RHD Original owner
- saildrive2001
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- Joined: 29 Oct 2003
Funny you should mention clutch release bearing as that was the reason I had my engine out at only 6000 miles.
I get the feeling the quality of the bearings are sub Standard.My bearing had almost welded to the clutch .I did find a genuine Borg and beck complete clutch on line for £165 quid a bargain as the dealers I contacted were looking for around £500 and not a Borg and Beck the best.
I Just hope the quality is ok on the bearing as its not something you can change easy as you are finding out.
Good luck
Regards
G
I get the feeling the quality of the bearings are sub Standard.My bearing had almost welded to the clutch .I did find a genuine Borg and beck complete clutch on line for £165 quid a bargain as the dealers I contacted were looking for around £500 and not a Borg and Beck the best.
I Just hope the quality is ok on the bearing as its not something you can change easy as you are finding out.
Good luck
Regards
G
- MACCA.GLM
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I live in Canada so that does add a further complexity. The platen (triangular piece) only has a shallow wear in it so might be able to be machined flat.
Keith Marshall
69 S4 SE DHC RHD Original owner
69 S4 SE DHC RHD Original owner
- saildrive2001
- Fourth Gear
- Posts: 556
- Joined: 29 Oct 2003
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