Evans waterless coolant..
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Hi, I got a simple question. Is **Evans waterless coolant** ok to use on my Elan S2.. My car runs great just in super hot, humid days temp goes up a bit..no overheating but close it heavy traffic. Does this stuff lower the temperature?
Thanks,
Lou
Thanks,
Lou
Louis Lottner
Elan S2 1965 #26-4840
Colin Chapman’s immortal words ‘Simplify, then add lightness’
Elan S2 1965 #26-4840
Colin Chapman’s immortal words ‘Simplify, then add lightness’
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loueelotus - Second Gear
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Evans does not have the same thermal conductivity as high as water, so your engine will run 10-15 degrees hotter than normal.
There is no cure for Lotus, only treatment.
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StressCraxx - Coveted Fifth Gear
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There's quite a few threads on here about it. Suggest searching and reading as will get the same responses here anyway.
If you want a quick way to scare your self off the idea lol at viewtopic.php?f=39&t=45603
If you want a quick way to scare your self off the idea lol at viewtopic.php?f=39&t=45603
'73 +2 130/5 RHD, now on the road and very slowly rolling though a "restoration"
- mbell
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Lou,
your bet on Evans is a bet on a promise of an easy solution. Even if it works for you, your cooling system still has the heat problem, it does not go away with Evans. It still will get hot, but not boil.
Evans is not "curing", it is "symptom curing", like pain killers or cortisone.
If your engine is getting hot only in slow traffic (which is pretty normal), supposing that all the rest is working fine (thermostat, water pump) you just need to upgrade the heat transfer capacity of your radiator.
Take the radiator out and have it recored with more rows/tubs (or buy a better one) or put a small fan (no need for a big one) on the radiator (switched on with either thermostat or manually).
I am not sure what Evans costs these days, but recoring or a installing a fan are quite good value for money.
Regards
Guillermo
your bet on Evans is a bet on a promise of an easy solution. Even if it works for you, your cooling system still has the heat problem, it does not go away with Evans. It still will get hot, but not boil.
Evans is not "curing", it is "symptom curing", like pain killers or cortisone.
If your engine is getting hot only in slow traffic (which is pretty normal), supposing that all the rest is working fine (thermostat, water pump) you just need to upgrade the heat transfer capacity of your radiator.
Take the radiator out and have it recored with more rows/tubs (or buy a better one) or put a small fan (no need for a big one) on the radiator (switched on with either thermostat or manually).
I am not sure what Evans costs these days, but recoring or a installing a fan are quite good value for money.
Regards
Guillermo
1964 S1 (all bits at home now)
1967 S3 DHC
1969 S4 FHC
https://theelanman.com for details on Brian Bucklands book.
https://shop.lotus-books.com for more Lotus related books.
We ship worldwide. PM/Email me.
1967 S3 DHC
1969 S4 FHC
https://theelanman.com for details on Brian Bucklands book.
https://shop.lotus-books.com for more Lotus related books.
We ship worldwide. PM/Email me.
- gherlt
- Third Gear
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If you are running the correct coolant NOT EVANS, the correct pressure rating radiator cap and your coolant is at the correct level not boiling, leaking or escaping excessively from the overflow pipe you can stop worrying.
Only pay attention to the temperature gauge if you notice an unusual change. Just relax otherwise. Modern cars seldom have coolant temperature gauges for good reason.
Only pay attention to the temperature gauge if you notice an unusual change. Just relax otherwise. Modern cars seldom have coolant temperature gauges for good reason.
1970 Ford Escort Twin Cam
1972 Ford Escort GT1600 Twin Cam
1980 Ford Escort 2.0 Ghia
Peugeot 505 GTI Wagons (5spdx1) (Autox1)
2022 Ford Fiesta ST.
1972 Ford Escort GT1600 Twin Cam
1980 Ford Escort 2.0 Ghia
Peugeot 505 GTI Wagons (5spdx1) (Autox1)
2022 Ford Fiesta ST.
- 2cams70
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If you are not in the habit of descaling your cooling system every 2-3 coolant changes, might be good practice. Your in Canuckleland, and GM sells a superior flush, expensive, but good.
I am in the habit of adding a cooling system lubricant, not sure if or how much it helps. I figure with the twin cam pump, it cant hurt.
Can you add a fan, or shut your car off at lights more than 7 seconds?
I am in the habit of adding a cooling system lubricant, not sure if or how much it helps. I figure with the twin cam pump, it cant hurt.
Can you add a fan, or shut your car off at lights more than 7 seconds?
Born, and brought home from the hospital (no seat belt (wtf)) in a baby!
Find out where the limits are, and start from there
Love your Mother
Earth
Find out where the limits are, and start from there
Love your Mother
Earth
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h20hamelan - Coveted Fifth Gear
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My S3 (wide) radiator was rebuilt a couple of years ago with a more modern, wider core. I use de-ionised water with a good anti-freeze and change it every 2 years. It never gets anywhere near too hot, even in the hottest days here in the UK. That's just with the standard metal fan.
Current :- Elan S3 DHC SE S/S 1968,
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- elans3
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It’s actually the radiator cap and not the radiator that limits the maximum design coolant temperature.
1970 Ford Escort Twin Cam
1972 Ford Escort GT1600 Twin Cam
1980 Ford Escort 2.0 Ghia
Peugeot 505 GTI Wagons (5spdx1) (Autox1)
2022 Ford Fiesta ST.
1972 Ford Escort GT1600 Twin Cam
1980 Ford Escort 2.0 Ghia
Peugeot 505 GTI Wagons (5spdx1) (Autox1)
2022 Ford Fiesta ST.
- 2cams70
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Donnels,
When I started my engine overhaul, I thought I would descale the engine. I bought some proprietary descaler, a washing machine pump a cheap plastic kettle and rigged up a heated re circulation system for the engine. This did not do much to remove scale. Having dismantled the engine I took one of the core plug screws from the head, and looked inside as best i could. The head seemed clean. The block was very different. I removed all the core plugs, behind them was a solid wall of rust coloured scale. I dug out as much muck as I could access from the core plugs, the holes where the block water jacket passes to the head and where the pump fits into the block. I borrowed a pressure washer and used that through all the openings in the block which seemed to move more muck than my other methods, I thought the block looked pretty clean after that. With hindsight I think the descaler took the easy route though the engine not touching most of the scale.
If your engine is basically clean with a flow through all areas then I would expect descaler to work, but if you have blockages I don’t think descaler will help.
I had my radiator recored by Cool Experts Nottingham.
Hope this helps,
Richard Hawkins
When I started my engine overhaul, I thought I would descale the engine. I bought some proprietary descaler, a washing machine pump a cheap plastic kettle and rigged up a heated re circulation system for the engine. This did not do much to remove scale. Having dismantled the engine I took one of the core plug screws from the head, and looked inside as best i could. The head seemed clean. The block was very different. I removed all the core plugs, behind them was a solid wall of rust coloured scale. I dug out as much muck as I could access from the core plugs, the holes where the block water jacket passes to the head and where the pump fits into the block. I borrowed a pressure washer and used that through all the openings in the block which seemed to move more muck than my other methods, I thought the block looked pretty clean after that. With hindsight I think the descaler took the easy route though the engine not touching most of the scale.
If your engine is basically clean with a flow through all areas then I would expect descaler to work, but if you have blockages I don’t think descaler will help.
I had my radiator recored by Cool Experts Nottingham.
Hope this helps,
Richard Hawkins
- RichardHawkins
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