Coolant drain tap on cylinder block
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Thanks guys. I will look there and see what I have.
How about getting a screwdriver to the hose clamps connecting the heater hoses to the heater core at the engine firewall?
Is there a trick I am overlooking? I can't figure out how the installer got even a stubby screw driver to the clamps.
How about getting a screwdriver to the hose clamps connecting the heater hoses to the heater core at the engine firewall?
Is there a trick I am overlooking? I can't figure out how the installer got even a stubby screw driver to the clamps.
- Fourducs
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Fourducs wrote:Thanks guys. I will look there and see what I have.
How about getting a screwdriver to the hose clamps connecting the heater hoses to the heater core at the engine firewall?
Is there a trick I am overlooking? I can't figure out how the installer got even a stubby screw driver to the clamps.
There's a special tool for that sort of thing. It's a long bendy (spring) rod with a handle on one end and a small socket wrench on the active end. About 15 inches long.
Hose clamp screws have both a slot for a screwdriver and a hexagonal shape for a box spanner.
Like this but longer. I have one, but can't recall where I got it from.
If there isn't clearance for one of those, you may be able to use a small ring spanner on the hex head.
Bill Williams
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Look for a hex head pipe plug below the #4 exhaust port near just above the crankcase skirt. The plug is a 1/4" NPT, tapered thread.
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StressCraxx - Coveted Fifth Gear
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If that plug is steel and hasn't been removed recently it's almost guaranteed that it will be virtually impossible to remove. You will need a tight fitting socket. If you round off the hex you are done for. Press it onto the bolt whilst turning so it doesn't tilt and slip rounding off the head of the bolt whilst doing so
If a quality 14mm socket fits instead of a 9/16" one use it. It will be an ever so slightly tighter fit than a 9/16" one.
If it's brass you are in luck and it should be easy to remove - early plugs are brass later ones are steel.
If a quality 14mm socket fits instead of a 9/16" one use it. It will be an ever so slightly tighter fit than a 9/16" one.
If it's brass you are in luck and it should be easy to remove - early plugs are brass later ones are steel.
1970 Ford Escort Twin Cam
1972 Ford Escort GT1600 Twin Cam
1980 Ford Escort 2.0 Ghia
Peugeot 505 GTI Wagons (5spdx1) (Autox1)
2022 Ford Fiesta ST.
1972 Ford Escort GT1600 Twin Cam
1980 Ford Escort 2.0 Ghia
Peugeot 505 GTI Wagons (5spdx1) (Autox1)
2022 Ford Fiesta ST.
- 2cams70
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Thanks. Mine does appear to be brass.
Any advice on how to loosen the heater hoses from the heater core nozzles they fit on? I have the clamps off, but find the work space to be so tight I cannot get anything to the end of the hose to pry it loose.
Any advice on how to loosen the heater hoses from the heater core nozzles they fit on? I have the clamps off, but find the work space to be so tight I cannot get anything to the end of the hose to pry it loose.
- Fourducs
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Don’t try and force it too much. If really tight just cut it lengthwise where it sits over the heater tube (not too deep so as to avoid scoring the tube). Give it a sideways wriggle and it should split and come off. You’ll need to replace the hose of course. It’s far, far better to do that than keep trying to force it. If you force it you risk damaging the heater core and causing an internal leak - been there done that.
1970 Ford Escort Twin Cam
1972 Ford Escort GT1600 Twin Cam
1980 Ford Escort 2.0 Ghia
Peugeot 505 GTI Wagons (5spdx1) (Autox1)
2022 Ford Fiesta ST.
1972 Ford Escort GT1600 Twin Cam
1980 Ford Escort 2.0 Ghia
Peugeot 505 GTI Wagons (5spdx1) (Autox1)
2022 Ford Fiesta ST.
- 2cams70
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In lieu of opening the drain on the engine block I have been told that jacking up the rear of the car is one way to help drain the block.
Of course I have also had the suggestion of pulling the thermostat and using water from a hose to flush the block or somehow using compressed air to blow out the old coolant.
Considering the old coolant was only several years old and looks good I am inclined to jack up the rear, drain what I can, put in fresh coolant and continue down the road. Any thoughts on that?
Of course I have also had the suggestion of pulling the thermostat and using water from a hose to flush the block or somehow using compressed air to blow out the old coolant.
Considering the old coolant was only several years old and looks good I am inclined to jack up the rear, drain what I can, put in fresh coolant and continue down the road. Any thoughts on that?
- Fourducs
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Flushing with a hose down the thermostat opening is a good plan of action.
It's up to you but you really should remove the block drain plug. You will be amazed at how much crud accumulates there in that lower corner. You'll need to poke up the hole with a screwdriver and clear as much crud as you can. Also recommended to flush the block in reverse with a high pressure hose - both up the cylinder block drain opening and through the timing cover radiator lower radiator hose opening.
If your block drain plug is brass you are in luck as it should come out easily.
It's up to you but you really should remove the block drain plug. You will be amazed at how much crud accumulates there in that lower corner. You'll need to poke up the hole with a screwdriver and clear as much crud as you can. Also recommended to flush the block in reverse with a high pressure hose - both up the cylinder block drain opening and through the timing cover radiator lower radiator hose opening.
If your block drain plug is brass you are in luck as it should come out easily.
1970 Ford Escort Twin Cam
1972 Ford Escort GT1600 Twin Cam
1980 Ford Escort 2.0 Ghia
Peugeot 505 GTI Wagons (5spdx1) (Autox1)
2022 Ford Fiesta ST.
1972 Ford Escort GT1600 Twin Cam
1980 Ford Escort 2.0 Ghia
Peugeot 505 GTI Wagons (5spdx1) (Autox1)
2022 Ford Fiesta ST.
- 2cams70
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