Removing the distributor

[mcole01]

Hello everyone,

I've tried to remove the distributor without any success. The Workshop manual is quite succinct in how it's done:

1. Remove the distributor cap - done
2. Disconnect the low tension lead - done
3. Unscrew the bolt retaining the distributor clamp on the engine - done
4. Carefully withdraw the distributor - no can do.

Any help with where I go from here much appreciated.

Mike

[bitsobrits]

If you can rotate the body of the distributor, you should be able to remove it. I have used a wooden pry bar (actually a hammer handle!) to gently get one started that hadn't been out for many years.

Do note the approximate position of the rotor and the body of the distributor before removal so you can get it close when re-installing, being mindful that the helical drive gear will rotate the shaft a bit on insertion.

[512BB]

Even with the pinchbolt slackened right off, the clamp round the dissy body can still be tight. So just undo the set screw / bolt that holds the clamp in place and remove the dissy and clamp as a unit. The dissy can still be tight in the block if a new or over size O ring that controls oil leakage has been fitted to the dissy body. Try twisting the body of the dissy backward and forward whilst applying upward pressure, and out it will pop.

As noted, if you do not intend to completely reset the timing, you should observe the position of the rotor arm before removal, and mesh the gear on the dissy on replacement, so that the rotor arm goes back to its original position.

It should be noted that there are two types of dissy clamp, and the above description is for the original style clamp, as that is most likely what you have.

Leslie

[tonyabacus]

I second the above, the bolt that secures the clamp can hold the distributor, so undoing it a couple of turns should free it off. However if it has been tightened up like that, then when the dizzy is out, check around the clamping surface of the dizzy as it may have been cracked.

Before refitting the dizzy, put the clamp on and check to see it is not distorted and is flat against the dizzy body.
When you reinstall, fit the clamp to the engine but don't tighten the bolt, insert the dizzy and settle the body down in the clamp, lightly tighten the clamp screw just enough to centralise the clamp and then do up the bolt in the block. This should ensure the dizzy can be rotated when the clamp is loose and that the clamp will be gripping the body evenly all round.
Tony

[mcole01]

Thanks for the helpful suggestions about removing the distributor. I removed the bolt from the clamp and the clamp is loose around the distributor. I have begun to achieve a little rotational movement and I think I might be able to use a CV joint slide hammer to bring it out.

Mike

[h20hamelan]

could consider soaking base in penetrating solution for a day. light alloy your dealing with

[512BB]

Mike, You do not need a slide hammer of any description. Just remove the little 1/2" long bolt that holds the clamp to the block and keep twisting the distributor back and forth, exerting upward pressure at the same time and it will come out. You will damage something using a slide hammer.

Leslie

[promotor]

Thanks for the helpful suggestions about removing the distributor. I removed the bolt from the clamp and the clamp is loose around the distributor. I have begun to achieve a little rotational movement and I think I might be able to use a CV joint slide hammer to bring it out.

Mike

Have you removed BOTH bolts?

[2cams70]

After removing the clamp bolt you need to get a flat bladed screwdriver in where the bolt passes through and where the clamp is split in order to gently prise the clamp further open. This will relieve the residual spring pressure on the distributor body. Whatever you do don’t use a slide hammer.