Fidanza Aluminum Flywheel and stalling or Donuts & stalling?

PostPost by: billmoore42 » Fri Feb 25, 2022 12:17 am

I have a 67 FHC with a 3.77 differential and the later 4 speed transmission with the lower first gear. This I purchased from a previous owner who put in a 1700 cc block (with standard head and webers) and also put in a Fidnaza aluminum flywheel.

To start the car off from a traffic light, I have always had to feather the clutch and burn it a bit to prevent stalling. My question is:

Is this due to the lightweight flywheel only, or do my Rotoflex couplings also contribute to having a little trouble getting away from a light?

I have heard a car with Rotoflex is a bit harder to drive than one with a driveshaft conversion, and was wondering if a driveshaft conversion to CV joints would help with my takeoff from the lights, while leaving the Fidnaza flywheel in place.

Thanks for any insight!
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PostPost by: 2cams70 » Fri Feb 25, 2022 12:52 am

Aluminium flywheels should be recycled into aluminium cans
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PostPost by: rgh0 » Fri Feb 25, 2022 12:59 am

You need to look at a range of issues before concluding what the problem is. Rotoflexes are only a potential issue if you have to feather the clutch due to surge in the drive train when taking off. Even then the surge may be due to other factors such as the engine and gearbox mounts

It also unlikely that an aluminium flywheel alone would be the problem especially with a 1700cc engine 3.77 diff and semi close gearbox, though the flywheel may be a part contributor if other issues present

i.e. Other issues to consider

The carb tune at low throttle openings
What sort of cam is fitted
What compression ratio
The ignition timing curve
What sort of clutch plate and pressure plate assembly and is it still in good condition

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PostPost by: billmoore42 » Fri Feb 25, 2022 1:15 am

Rohan and 2Cams:

Thanks for the comments. The car has quite a bit of power, solid motor mounts, and I believe a standard cam. So it looks like I might gain a little by converting from donuts to CV driveshafts as far as driveability.

The problem is, I drive it to work twice a week, and have about 16 stoplights on my way.

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PostPost by: alan.barker » Fri Feb 25, 2022 1:55 am

Are the Doughnuts the original type or the later sprint type with the interlleaves.
The sprint type are less elastic.
It could also be the Flywheel needs to be resurfaced.
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PostPost by: Billmack » Fri Feb 25, 2022 2:49 am

Sounds like flywheel to me. Problem with rotoflex is more like car sorta bunny hops when you try to take off as the rubber stretches and snaps back.
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PostPost by: 2cams70 » Fri Feb 25, 2022 3:46 am

As well as taking the Aluminium flywheel to the metal recyclers I'd recommend getting rid of the solid engine mounts pronto unless you have some teeth fillings you would like to remove!
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PostPost by: billmoore42 » Fri Feb 25, 2022 4:27 am

Thanks, I have rubber engine mounts but it sounds like the aluminum flywheel is the root cause of the problem. I think this would not be a problem if were retired and just drove on the abundant canyon roads around here, but driving through the city to work can be tiresome, and also can occasionally induce a bit of paranoia, as my car is so small compared to the Challengers and SUVs that are so prevalent here.

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PostPost by: Davidb » Tue Mar 15, 2022 12:25 am

Sorry to be late coming to this discussion.
I have to say I disagree with most of the previous comments. I have a 1720cc Elan with a Fidanza aluminium flywheel, 3:55 diff and close ratio box and I have absolutely zero problems as you have described! I do however, have sliding spline driveshafts-no rubber for this ducky!
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Last edited by Davidb on Tue Mar 15, 2022 4:34 am, edited 1 time in total.
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PostPost by: bitsobrits » Tue Mar 15, 2022 2:05 am

Also coming in late, but I've run an aluminum flywheel for the last 30+ years in my S1 Elan with no issues similar to yours. 3.55 rear end, semi-close gearbox, 185/60 tires and 1720cc. I've run an aluminum flywheel in most of my sports cars over the years with no issues, including my current E-type Jag (18 years and counting).
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PostPost by: prezoom » Tue Mar 15, 2022 3:00 pm

I have a Fidanza aluminum flywheel in my Plus2, equipped with a 2L Zetec, close ratio trans, and a 3.55 diff. No problems what so ever after 3 years of operation. If you let the clutch out without giving it some gas, it is a bit dicey, however a small increase in rpm will get it moving without issues.
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PostPost by: Slowtus » Tue Mar 15, 2022 6:37 pm

Getting the Elan off the line has always been a 'process' - not a massive process but still a process and once learned, makes the 'launch' easy.

First learned on in an S2 while driving in London.

First time I got behind the wheel of a Plus 2 with a 2.0L Zetec with 170+hp and equally good torque I almost stalled/kangarooed it.

Once I made the mostly mental adjustment it was just like driving any other (rotoflex) Elan.
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PostPost by: billmoore42 » Tue Mar 15, 2022 7:09 pm

Thanks for all the comments, it appears aluminum flywheels are a subject of some debate. It sounds like switching out my Rotoflex (a shame, as they are in perfect shape and only 2 years old) with driveshafts will at least help a bit with the start from the traffic light.
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PostPost by: gjz30075 » Tue Mar 15, 2022 8:37 pm

billmoore42 wrote: It sounds like switching out my Rotoflex (a shame, as they are in perfect shape and only 2 years old)


Probably at the end of their life already :)
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