Replacement radiator options

[Richardsona39]

Our 71 Plus 2 S130 is getting a thorough going over and the engine is mostly apart at this point. The radiator is pretty clogged and doesn't look in good shape. RD Enterprises nearby me in Pennsylvania sells a couple of radiators:
- High performance radiator for $900
- Replica 26R radiator for $1,000, which also requires a header tank ($315) and various other bits to adapt it.

We're not planning on tracking our car, it's just for tootling around, so I'm wondering if these are overkill options, or if there's something less expensive that will work. I did a forum search but didn't turn up any specific recommendations that I could see. Any pointers on what type to get, and sources (preferably in USA)?

Here's a pic of the old one when it was still in place (didn't grab a pic of it while it was out unfortunately)

Thanks!

[mbell]

The radiators are modified triumph spitfire. New spitfire radiators can be found reasonably priced then any decent radiator shop can modify them (rotate inlet and outlets) to suit. These can be found in original style or aluminum.

Most people end up with wider one, narrower one had enough capacity when in good condition and less hot climates. Wider one has much more capacity and is available new.

https://mossmotors.com/radiator-21-wide ... soc=106232
https://mossmotors.com/radiator-21-wide ... soc=106233

I run wide spitfire + two fans and it copes fine with Texas climate, even idling in the summer.

A buy and bolt on solution is Coolexpert setup from the UK.
https://www.coolexperts.co.uk/product/l ... struction/

[snowyelan]

I bought mine off ebay a few years back, $60Usd for an alloy spitfire one. Had a local welder rotate the inlet 180, left the outlet as it was, $20Cad. Not perfect, but better than what I had. This gets you close. I still need to add the temperature sensor fitting. I added a rad cap adapter to the top hose to aid with filling and purging air, not strictly necessary. The hoses and brackets needed changing in my case. HTH.

[Richardsona39]

Thanks Mbell, those all look like good solutions. The shop we're working with deals with Spitfires frequently, so this should be familiar for them. I'm in Maryland so it's not as hot as Texas in the summer, but a 2nd fan probably not a bad idea. And definitely going for the wide boi.

[h20hamelan]

DNA Motoring RA-TRIUM64-2 2-Row Full Aluminum Radiator,Metallic

About $140 USA it looks like, I am considering this one.

[alan.barker]

Hi Richardsona,
I suggest a wide Triumph Spitfire Rad but not an alloy one. If you ever have a leak with an alloy Rad you will find it difficult to fix.
Also give the Heater Rad a good flush out.
Plus flush the Block and check Core Plugs while Engine is out of car. When changing Core Plugs lots of debris can be flushed out.
Alan

[gherlt]

How about having rebuild the old one ?
Rebuilders clean header and bottom, and weld new and more lines inbetween.
The more rows the more heat transfer capacity you have.
You should only assure that they have the result (high) pressure tested.
Pricing is usually more or less the same as new (normal) replacement readiators.
If you do not race, I suppose that should be enough.
I drive my car (S3) in high temperatures in Spain with the engine mounted fan only.

[lowflyer]

+1 for re-coring an old radiator.

I had my original Marston radiator re-cored with a new higher efficiency core for significantly less. I'm in the UK so our costs will vary but I guess I paid less than £300 (~$400) a few months ago. I wasn't looking to save money, it was just that I wanted the original look and really only the core was damaged.

Maybe seek out the local radiator guy.

[JimE]

Re-core the original radiator and it will work fine. Jim

[stugilmour]

I also had the stock narrow radiator recored locally and it was excellent with an essentially stock Stromberg TC. It worked fine, even in the desert heat for the Las Vegas LOG all those years ago. It even worked OK for a track day at Sebring, but that was right before Hurricane Sandy, so hardly a high heat day.

Since then I have added considerably more engine power, and I am considering mounting an aluminum radiator I got from RD Enterprises years ago. For the original poster, the main reason I didn’t mount this unit was it fouls the front brake booster in the Plus 2 Federal stock setup. I guess this is why others are posting getting the top left inlet nipple moved.

Can some of the other Plus 2 owners please post some detailed pictures of their aluminum radiator mounting solutions, particularly with the brake booster mounted? I think I have figured out mounting plates that will connect to the stock narrow radiator body attachment. However I am not sure how to modify the inlet nozzle to clear the brake booster and not become to high for the bonnet.

I think my alloy radiator is similar to this one Ray shows on the Plus 2 parts page.

Elan 26R Alloy Radiator

Picture of the alloy radiator on offer from RD Enterprises

6BB36414-1F08-4C12-887E-F9A2FEBEF796.jpeg (34.25 KiB) Viewed 1026 times

This is a faithful replica of the lightweight 26R radiator and can be fitted to any Elan or Elan Plus 2. Three row crossflow design requires swirl tank (no cap on radiator itself). Dimensions 22" wide x 12" tall x 2" thick, weight 6.5 lbs.

Ref. 26R-K-0002 Alloy Radiator $995.00
(see header tank and hoses below)

[h20hamelan]

Stu, I suspect yours (TTR RD) have side tanks. So where your inlet is, is different than most of the “Spitfire” rads.
I had my +2 recorded, and has been fine (not lots of km though). Like Stu, my new +2 hoping to have a Duratec (Larger and higher hp), likely will need more cooling. It is going to a brother who may or may not keep a keen eye on gauges. So I will be adding lights and buzzers for low pressure in oil and coolant.
My S4 is a stock small “Spitfire”, and for the driving I am doing in the foreseeable future, fine for now. And cheap $80 (i see have gone up to $250). The re-core was $240. The aluminum at $220 seems just as repairable as any braze welding with flux on any other metal. Time will tell.

Stu, the “Spitfire” rads entrance is angled incorrectly for the Twink, hits the front engine cover. So they need to be redirected. Maybe easier on brass or steel, but likely not.

Hope someone has your TTR setup, and will chime in.

Chinese DNA amazon $220

Coolexperts

Moss, same as BPNW and Four Seasons

[The Veg]

For those of you who have a wide radiator in a Plus 2, did it leave enough space for the air intake duct from the nose?

[mbell]

Yes it's tight going past the radiator thou. I run a k and n come filter, which I positioned to make sure it worked.

The hose does get compressed a bit when the bonnet is opened.

[tonyabacus]

Your local radiator restorer should be able to re-core your existing rad with an upgraded core with greater efficiency, that way you don't have to worry about how it all goes back in the car as it uses the original fitment. Others have commented that in hotter States than you they have no issues so an upgraded core should do what you need.

[skyarch]

The thing is that in the US the radiator shop is a thing of the past. One of the few around here had the owner retire last year.
Finding a good repair shop is a challenge, especially one that's familiar with any European car.
The same goes for fuel tank repair. Remove and replace is the mantra!