Elan S4(Strombergs) starts for a minute then fades

PostPost by: stebbs » Thu Sep 24, 2020 11:45 pm

I can look again but at one point I disconnected the fuel line and let it pump into a jar. Looked pretty efficient to me. I've plugged off the vacuum connection and also plugged up the hose to the light opening mechanism. I checked the firing order and that is correct.I was pretty careful to get the cams and sprocket wheels in the right position. I had replaced the valves too so maybe there is some issue there. It's really tough to define the issue. I'm now looking for a tow dolly so I can take it to someone who may have other ideas as I'm starting to run out of them myself.
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PostPost by: bitsobrits » Fri Sep 25, 2020 1:56 am

You've tried another coil? Is there a ballast resistor fitted in series with the coil wiring?
Steve

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Elan S3 1967 FHC pre airflow

Formerly:
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Elan S3 1967 FHC airflow
Elan S4 1969 FHC
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PostPost by: stebbs » Fri Sep 25, 2020 3:11 am

No, it doesn’t keep running. I can maybe get the choke in and it revs up but sounds pretty rough with a bit of backfiring then dies no matter what I do. Can’t tell you the exact revs as that’s another thing not working
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PostPost by: h20hamelan » Fri Sep 25, 2020 3:52 am

stebbs wrote:I can look again but at one point I disconnected the fuel line and let it pump into a jar. Looked pretty efficient to me. I've plugged off the vacuum connection and also plugged up the hose to the light opening mechanism. I checked the firing order and that is correct.I was pretty careful to get the cams and sprocket wheels in the right position. I had replaced the valves too so maybe there is some issue there. It's really tough to define the issue. I'm now looking for a tow dolly so I can take it to someone who may have other ideas as I'm starting to run out of them myself.



they need to flow a certain amount, at a certain pressure. through specified diameter hose.
reductions, or expansions hinder this I would say.

Low flow or high flow. it needs to be close. watching it come out is not quantitative
same for spark, if its low. it may not be enough.

Both should be easy enough to do. Measure volume of fuel, over specified time. As for spark, can you purchase a spark plug gap tool. $20
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PostPost by: h20hamelan » Fri Sep 25, 2020 3:58 am

i would start with the best coil money can buy, along with cap, rotor, & points. and set static timing over, and over again-to be sure
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PostPost by: derek uk » Fri Sep 25, 2020 9:12 am

"Can’t tell you the exact revs as that’s another thing not working"
Some rev counters work by being part of the low tension circuit, the small wire on the distributer. If the rev counter isn't working properly it may be due to bad contacts/connections or a faulty wire. The coil connections may also be reversed. A bad low tension wire will cause the engine to ether show no sign of life or run badly. A bad condenser will also do the same thing. New ones aren't always any good so you sometimes replace good with bad when chasing a fault like this. A loose connection at the distributor or the coil can cause this sort of fault. Just remaking/re crimping the connector can cure the problem but the the loose connection sometimes not easily spotted.

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PostPost by: oldelanman » Fri Sep 25, 2020 10:02 am

derek uk wrote:"Can’t tell you the exact revs as that’s another thing not working"
Some rev counters work by being part of the low tension circuit, the small wire on the distributer. If the rev counter isn't working properly it may be due to bad contacts/connections or a faulty wire.
Derek UK

Has anyone suggested checking the anti-theft switch (if the car still has one fitted) ? It's often responsible for poor starting and running issues and being hidden away is easily overlooked when checking for bad connections etc.
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