installation of cast exhaust manifold on Federal S4
5 posts
• Page 1 of 1
I am having difficulty getting the cast iron exhaust manifold and Y-downpipes to fit between the engine and the frame flange which bolts to the engine mount. I have the downpipe connected to the manifold. I have the manifold studs in the head. I have removed the LH engine mount and loosened the RH one, supporting the engine with a board on a floor jack. I can remove the RH mount completely, but the fuel pump is already pushed hard against the RH footwell.
Do I first need to disassemble the downpipe connection by removing the cap-screws? I managed to somehow get the engine out while leaving that connection intact, Or is there some other way to wiggle the manifold back onto the head?
0005K
Dick
Do I first need to disassemble the downpipe connection by removing the cap-screws? I managed to somehow get the engine out while leaving that connection intact, Or is there some other way to wiggle the manifold back onto the head?
0005K
Dick
- 0005K
- Second Gear
- Posts: 81
- Joined: 27 Mar 2011
Can't exactly remember how but you shouldn't have to separate the downpipe. Are you feeding the manifold from the top or the bottom.
I think from the bottom works better. But it has been a long time since I used the cast manifold.
I will say the TTR extra large bore manifold(s) are a real bastard.
I think from the bottom works better. But it has been a long time since I used the cast manifold.
I will say the TTR extra large bore manifold(s) are a real bastard.
'69 Elan S4 SE
Street 181 BHP
Original owner
Street 181 BHP
Original owner
- 1owner69Elan
- Fourth Gear
- Posts: 846
- Joined: 16 Jun 2015
Thanks for the feedback. I'm not sure that the cap-screws on the down-pipe would want to come out easily.....
I think I'll try totally removing the RH engine mount also, and raising the engine more - before trying the bottom-load approach. Not much room for bottom-load unless I raise the front end,which means engine mounts back in to raise the car - and then remove LH mount again.
I'll let you know what finally works.
0005K
Dick
I think I'll try totally removing the RH engine mount also, and raising the engine more - before trying the bottom-load approach. Not much room for bottom-load unless I raise the front end,which means engine mounts back in to raise the car - and then remove LH mount again.
I'll let you know what finally works.
0005K
Dick
- 0005K
- Second Gear
- Posts: 81
- Joined: 27 Mar 2011
Finally got exhaust manifold and down-pipe installed as one-piece
Raised front end at front beam.
Supported engine with a floor-jack (trolley-jack) under engine sump with a wide board to spread the load.
Removed BOTH engine mounts
Removed clutch slave cylinder for clearance and to prevent damage to hydraulic line
Removed fuel pump so it doesn't crash into RH foot well.
Pivoted engine and trans towards right to gain clearance to LH frame flange - This is where it needs clearance
Raised engine up by floor jack on sump, adding blocks to prevent engine dropping if hydraulic jack let go.
Loaded manifold from the bottom with y-pipe pointing towards right, and rolled it up into place.
Lowered engine to loosely install exhaust manifold with new brass nuts and bronze lock-washers
Replaced all the parts I took off, with some new bolts and nuts, and I will attempt to torque all to spec tomorrow....
There may be some over-kill here. It it fought me for quite a while, and that is how I finally won.
0005K
Dick
Raised front end at front beam.
Supported engine with a floor-jack (trolley-jack) under engine sump with a wide board to spread the load.
Removed BOTH engine mounts
Removed clutch slave cylinder for clearance and to prevent damage to hydraulic line
Removed fuel pump so it doesn't crash into RH foot well.
Pivoted engine and trans towards right to gain clearance to LH frame flange - This is where it needs clearance
Raised engine up by floor jack on sump, adding blocks to prevent engine dropping if hydraulic jack let go.
Loaded manifold from the bottom with y-pipe pointing towards right, and rolled it up into place.
Lowered engine to loosely install exhaust manifold with new brass nuts and bronze lock-washers
Replaced all the parts I took off, with some new bolts and nuts, and I will attempt to torque all to spec tomorrow....
There may be some over-kill here. It it fought me for quite a while, and that is how I finally won.
0005K
Dick
- 0005K
- Second Gear
- Posts: 81
- Joined: 27 Mar 2011
5 posts
• Page 1 of 1
Total Online:
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 22 guests