Lotus Elan

water pump removal

PostPost by: alan.barker » Fri Jun 05, 2020 9:27 am

Be careful there's a lot of bent sandwich plates around :roll:
Alan
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PostPost by: 2cams70 » Fri Jun 05, 2020 9:40 am

alan.barker wrote:Impossible to remove single bolt before the front cover has been removed complet with the Pump :wink: :wink:
The bolt is exposed after removal of the front cover
Alan


There should be just enough room to get in there with a ring spanner to remove this and the jackshaft sprocket bolts once the sump is off if all else fails and you need to remove front cover and backplate together.
Last edited by 2cams70 on Fri Jun 05, 2020 9:48 am, edited 1 time in total.
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PostPost by: HCA » Fri Jun 05, 2020 9:44 am

Thanks Guys! You have cemented my case for spending the extra to fit a cartridge type.. :D :D
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PostPost by: 2cams70 » Fri Jun 05, 2020 9:49 am

HCA wrote:Thanks Guys! You have cemented my case for spending the extra to fit a cartridge type.. :D :D


You'll be pleased to know that they can corrode in place too!!
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PostPost by: rgh0 » Fri Jun 05, 2020 10:15 am

2cams70 wrote:
HCA wrote:Thanks Guys! You have cemented my case for spending the extra to fit a cartridge type.. :D :D


You'll be pleased to know that they can corrode in place too!!


Jacking bolt holes though generally allow removal even if corroded and stuck

cheers
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PostPost by: 2cams70 » Fri Jun 05, 2020 10:31 am

rgh0 wrote:Jacking bolt holes though generally allow removal even if corroded and stuck


To be fair it generally doesn't happen much these days in cherished classics being properly maintained and with the proper coolant. Most corrosion is carryover damage from the bad old days when these types of cars were in the banger class owned by people who couldn't afford the maintenance.
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PostPost by: elanner » Fri Jun 05, 2020 10:37 am

alan.barker wrote:Be careful there's a lot of bent sandwich plates around :roll:
Alan


Brian Buckland's book describes a clever way, with pictures, to lever the front cover off without bending the backplate. Using a G clamp across #1 cylinder bore (protecting it with a wooden half moon) and the top of the back plate, and a pair of Mole grips to hold the bottom of the plate to the block.

So you can lever the front cover off without pulling against the single bolt in the back plate.

Never tried it myself.

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PostPost by: alan.barker » Fri Jun 05, 2020 10:40 am

+1
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PostPost by: Foxie » Fri Jun 05, 2020 2:38 pm

2cams70 wrote:
HCA wrote:This is the best advert I have seen to date making the case to ensure I install a cartridge system on my engine rebuild next year


Don't be jumping for joy too much on that one! Beware they usually aren't just plug and play for first time fitment. There's a lot of fettling to be done to make them fit and traps to be careful of (shouldn't be that way but unfortunately that's the reality more often than not with non OEM parts). The first time fitment is more not less difficult than just replacing the original. Once successfully fitted however you should be on a roll.


As The Good Soldier Svejk would say, I humbly beg to report that I have fitted two cartridge water pumps, and had absolutely no problems.

Also removed and refitted them for engine rebuilds. No problems.

:) :)
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PostPost by: 2cams70 » Fri Jun 05, 2020 2:45 pm

Foxie wrote:As The Good Soldier Svejk would say, I humbly beg to report that I have fitted two cartridge water pumps, and had absolutely no problems.

Also removed and refitted them for engine rebuilds. No problems.



Aaahem - you should count yourself lucky in that case!!

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PostPost by: alan.barker » Fri Jun 05, 2020 2:52 pm

Many years ago i fitted a "AKS" water pump module with no problems and it had Jacking screw holes.
But if i had had problems i would have said like the old "madame de fer" "i want my money back" :mrgreen:
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PostPost by: 2cams70 » Fri Jun 05, 2020 2:59 pm

alan.barker wrote:Many years ago i fitted a "AKS" water pump module with no problems and it had Jacking screw holes.
But if i had had problems i would have said like the old "madame de fer" "i want my money back" :mrgreen:
Alan


Yes try getting your money back from Burtons. That was a task harder than the whole project of fitting the pump!
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PostPost by: Sheldo » Sat Jun 06, 2020 1:47 am

Had the same issue a couple weeks ago. I had to take the bolts out of the keeper for the Jack shaft. I was able to get a punch in and bend the tabs holding the bolts in place. Take those out and the bolt holding the backplate. It is a tight fit. Then take it to a press.
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PostPost by: englishmaninwales » Sat Jun 06, 2020 6:58 am

Foxie wrote:
2cams70 wrote:
HCA wrote:This is the best advert I have seen to date making the case to ensure I install a cartridge system on my engine rebuild next year


Don't be jumping for joy too much on that one! Beware they usually aren't just plug and play for first time fitment. There's a lot of fettling to be done to make them fit and traps to be careful of (shouldn't be that way but unfortunately that's the reality more often than not with non OEM parts). The first time fitment is more not less difficult than just replacing the original. Once successfully fitted however you should be on a roll.


As The Good Soldier Svejk would say, I humbly beg to report that I have fitted two cartridge water pumps, and had absolutely no problems.

Also removed and refitted them for engine rebuilds. No problems.

:) :)


Hmmmm....I think you have been lucky. My Burton supplied assembly had a poorly centred casting core for the coolant passage in the front cover. The result was the timing chain contacted the casting. Luckily this was apparent on trial assembly, and easily resolved by fettling. The fixing bolts required some work to clear the pulley flange.
All pretty simple stuff, but an irritation.
As said, once fitted, has been trouble free for 5 years and 15k miles.
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PostPost by: Mrozik » Sat Jun 06, 2020 12:39 pm

Pleased to confirm that by removing the sprocket and the single bot I how have the assembly off :D

What's the best way to separate the two plates now?

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