Lotus Elan

Heater core +2

PostPost by: HCA » Tue Apr 07, 2020 4:32 pm

Waiting for some parts today I started another job, replacing a dodgy wiper wheel box.

Under all the horsehair, I found the boxes no problem, and then thought, I might as well replace the heater core and motor, or at least have a look at them. This is for tomorrow. Will someone who has done this job please tell me if fortune will be on my side in that the holes are large enough to pull the two hoses through with the core?

Thanks
Hal

Btw, I have just drawn a doll on my post-it pad and sticking needles in it, hoping the chap who installed the dashboards in 1973 is still with us and can feel every pin! What possessed them to make a simple job impossible by glueing the top of the dashboard to the crash pad...? Absolute madness
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PostPost by: JonB » Tue Apr 07, 2020 4:39 pm

Hi Hal

If by "the two hoses" you mean the rubber hoses, I suspect you will have difficulty pulling them trough the holes. Won't hurt to try... unless you break the solder on the pipes. So probably best to remove them first. The heater box is a difficult part to remove but with patience it will come out. To pull the core you need to disassemble it and the trickiest part of that is removing the levers for the heater flaps without breaking them. If you do break them (the small one in particular) it's £50 from SJS to replace. Crazy. Here's my account: viewtopic.php?f=38&t=45199

Also, once you have the heater box apart you should check and replace the foam attached to the flaps.

Cheers
JonB

PS, Crashpad is attached with a double sided sticky tape on my car, but when I reassembled it I just put cloth tape on the top edge of the wood to stop it squeaking, then made sure the crashpad return was clamped by the screws that secure the dash (top edge). I had to glass in a couple of new tabs too.
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PostPost by: john.p.clegg » Tue Apr 07, 2020 4:46 pm

.." you should check and replace the foam attached to the flaps. "

and the rubber seals...

John ;-)
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PostPost by: JonB » Tue Apr 07, 2020 4:52 pm

Yeah, those too! :oops:
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PostPost by: HCA » Tue Apr 07, 2020 6:20 pm

Thanks for coming back! So it looks like tomorrow will be another day of wailing and gnashing of teeth! I was hoping the whole lot would just draw out!

Yes, I will check everything and probably renew the seals, core and motor as I do not want to do this one again! In the same vein, I will maybe renew the whole wiper system rather than the one box that is loose.

Thge reason then for glueing the dash to the crash pad is dues to the two creaking? Surely there has to be some other way?
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PostPost by: h20hamelan » Tue Apr 07, 2020 6:21 pm

Like many things, not for everyone.
I installed a heater bypass switch. So when it gets cooler out, or its raining. I open the switch under bonnet.
More disgust, I shelved the copper heater core. Because its not that cold out. And used a coil of rubber heater hose, packed fairly tight.
So outside of the new motor (which better last longer than me!), I hope to never need to go through this again.
I also ran new thicker positive and negative wire, and a relay. Like many, nothing better to do with ones life.
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PostPost by: wotsisname » Wed Apr 08, 2020 2:23 pm

If it helps.. you should be able to remove the heater core without taking the levers off the rods.. you drill out the rivets on the other side of the box... you can do most of the other work on the heater box at the same time if you are reluctant to remove the lever.. with a bit of fiddling and masking tape you can paint the box, etc
1968 Elan plus 2 - project
2007 Elise S2 [modified with a Hethel 70th sticker (yellow)]
2000 Elise S1 - Sold
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PostPost by: HCA » Sun Apr 12, 2020 9:07 am

Thanks again for the tips. I have not taken the heater out yet as I have so many little jobs stuck for parts, the place is becoming a bit of a mess, so I might wait a week or so.

But I got to thinking and reading in the archives about airconditioning. I remember Jon, before I got my car, you mentioned how hot it gets in the cabin and a good idea to isolate the heater, emphasid by h2o above. Just how hot is hot? If one were not to drive the car in say anything below 7 or 8 degrees C, would a heater be necessary even?

I once airconditioned an MGBGT by using the space vacated by the heater I threw out and it was very successful. The same car had heated seats and a heated front screen. Can one buy heated front screens for a +2??
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PostPost by: HCA » Sun Apr 12, 2020 9:15 am

I see on Ricky Evans' website, that it is possible to get a heated front screen. Encouraging! So leaves the question of how much heat permeates from the front - enough for a cool autumn day??
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PostPost by: HCA » Sun Apr 12, 2020 3:11 pm

Chewed the idea over down at the car just now, and decided to give the airconditioning a miss!

One question though - a couple of mentions of installing an isolation valve under the bonnet. Does anyone know for sure if the heating system was not designed as part of of the cooling system, ie, it was never intended to be shut off?
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PostPost by: mbell » Sun Apr 12, 2020 3:54 pm

The elan heater temp control works via a valve. So likely ok and I have one on my car with no issue.

The best solution is a combined heater ac like vintage air unit.
'73 +2 130/5 RHD, now on the road and very slowly rolling though a "restoration"
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PostPost by: JonB » Sun Apr 12, 2020 4:01 pm

I fitted a small black plastic valve to my heater circuit. It's connected to the pipe coming out of the thermostat housing.

IMG_6387.jpg and
Sorry if it's rotated. Looks OK on my computer.


It's a godsend when the heater is knackered and you need to cool down in the car. Been on there for two years. No problems detected, and I've got the original radiator and fan. As you can see, it is very discrete.
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PostPost by: JonB » Sun Apr 12, 2020 4:04 pm

HCA wrote:I see on Ricky Evans' website, that it is possible to get a heated front screen. Encouraging! So leaves the question of how much heat permeates from the front - enough for a cool autumn day??


That's for defrosting the screen in Winter, not heating the cabin.
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PostPost by: HCA » Sun Apr 12, 2020 4:13 pm

I only asked about the isolation as I remember back in those days, some cars heaters could not be switched off as it upset the engine cooling - I do not know which cars or the reasons, but I can see that the twin cam should be ok as it just has two take off points and the heater is not a bridge to any two parts.

Yes Jon, the reason for the heated screen is for demist if I removed the heater. I successfully did this on an MGB and relied on a small flap down in the footwell for a bit of heat - problem though was it allowed more smell in than heat :D

Maybe a project for later on, but for now not only has my pot been hit by the unforeseens like drive shafts, overall it is going to take a while to build another pot if the virus situation continues to hit the enomy.
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PostPost by: JonB » Sun Apr 12, 2020 4:18 pm

I found the heated screen on my Ford doesn't help that much with demisting - it's best use case is softening winter frost ready for the wipers. YMMV - and you'll need a fat alternator too. The Ford item has 2x40A fuses.

I wouldn't remove the heater if I were you. It's not too hard to overhaul and not expensive either, providing your core is OK. I'd check it before buying a new one. And I'd definitely prioritise the CV joints.
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