"Interesting" water leak....
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I noticed some water under my Plus 2s the other day. It was dripping off the bottom of the bell housing where it meets the engine. Initially i thought the heater hose that runs across the back of the engine to the thermostat housing (and in fact after removing it it was damaged - a tiny pin prick hole where the pipe was chaffing on the back of the block), but having replaced it, the leak was still present.
To investigate further, I removed the cover plate on the front of the the bell housing. It turns out that the water is dripping from the bottom of the "lip" of the sum where it forms the crank seal. Most of it is dripping straight down and then coming out of the bell housing between it and the cover, but some has obviously been running down the flywheel itself - i have a nice rusty streak across it. This makes me think the water must be coming from above it (and pretty much line with the center of the flywheel).
So the question is, where is the water coming from? I'm "hoping" it's just the rear core plug leaking (but why??) rather than a crack in the block. But before i whip the engine out, any other theories? Also, since the manual implies i can separate the engine from the gear box which the box in-situe (in order to take the engine out on its own), anyone care to comment on the chances of changing that core plug without taking the engine all the way out?
Thanks in advance
To investigate further, I removed the cover plate on the front of the the bell housing. It turns out that the water is dripping from the bottom of the "lip" of the sum where it forms the crank seal. Most of it is dripping straight down and then coming out of the bell housing between it and the cover, but some has obviously been running down the flywheel itself - i have a nice rusty streak across it. This makes me think the water must be coming from above it (and pretty much line with the center of the flywheel).
So the question is, where is the water coming from? I'm "hoping" it's just the rear core plug leaking (but why??) rather than a crack in the block. But before i whip the engine out, any other theories? Also, since the manual implies i can separate the engine from the gear box which the box in-situe (in order to take the engine out on its own), anyone care to comment on the chances of changing that core plug without taking the engine all the way out?
Thanks in advance
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sdenny - First Gear
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- Joined: 17 Nov 2016
Looks like Engine out.
I think i would replace all core Plugs. I suggest you use the special Loctite for Core Plugs.
Also while Core Plugs are out give inside the Block a good wash/flush out.
If one Core Plug is rusted so will the others be.
Alan
I think i would replace all core Plugs. I suggest you use the special Loctite for Core Plugs.
Also while Core Plugs are out give inside the Block a good wash/flush out.
If one Core Plug is rusted so will the others be.
Alan
Alan.b Brittany 1972 elan sprint fhc Lagoon Blue 0460E
- alan.barker
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Alan,
Thanks for the reply. I'm hoping the plug is not rusted through. The car was only restored 2 1/2 years ago... (and although i didn't do it, i would be 99.9% certain the previous owner would have done it. Certainly the plugs i can see look new. If it is the plug and it's just "leaking" (for whatever reason), any idea on the change of not having to lift the engine out of the car? (ie just splitting the box/block and moving the block forward?)
Thanks
Thanks for the reply. I'm hoping the plug is not rusted through. The car was only restored 2 1/2 years ago... (and although i didn't do it, i would be 99.9% certain the previous owner would have done it. Certainly the plugs i can see look new. If it is the plug and it's just "leaking" (for whatever reason), any idea on the change of not having to lift the engine out of the car? (ie just splitting the box/block and moving the block forward?)
Thanks
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sdenny - First Gear
- Posts: 21
- Joined: 17 Nov 2016
Once you have split the Engine and Gearbox a half hour more and it's out.
Just tie the Exhaust Manifold to one side so it's not in the way.
For sure use the Loctite for Core Plugs so there is no risk of a leak. Belt and Braces but i've learned the hard way. Do it once and do it right.
Alan
Just tie the Exhaust Manifold to one side so it's not in the way.
For sure use the Loctite for Core Plugs so there is no risk of a leak. Belt and Braces but i've learned the hard way. Do it once and do it right.
Alan
Alan.b Brittany 1972 elan sprint fhc Lagoon Blue 0460E
- alan.barker
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I recently stripped my engine for examination to see if an overhaul was required. Core plugs looked fine on the outside but took one out to check. A good check, they were very badly corroded inside and were not far from failing. All replaced in about 30 mins. Don’t go on external appearance and they’re easy to do.
Elan +2
Elise mk 1
Elise mk 1
- Donels
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The core plugs have to be driven into place. I used a large punch and a hammer, I have read some people have used a socket of the correct size. Either way you need room or awing a hammer, so I think the engine will have to come out.
Richard Hawkins
Richard Hawkins
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You can do the engine side ones is situate with a plug fitting tool, the rear one requires gearbox removing for access.
If your pulling engine worth doing them and likely washing out a good amount of casting sand and sludge that's in there.
If your pulling engine worth doing them and likely washing out a good amount of casting sand and sludge that's in there.
'73 +2 130/5 RHD, now on the road and very slowly rolling though a "restoration"
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