Lotus Elan

Evans coolant

PostPost by: 2cams70 » Sun Nov 24, 2019 1:39 am

I work for a vehicle manufacturer and we generally use Fuchs products exclusively as a substitute if the lubricant or coolant specified by the parent company is something obscure or difficult to source locally. As Rohan says though the brand is one thing but it must also be the right formulation for the specific application!

I forgot to add that the brand Nulon as referred to by Rohan is now owned by Fuchs.
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PostPost by: fatboyoz » Sun Nov 24, 2019 6:51 am

Hi Rohan,
Can you please indicate which Nulon products are IAT.
Thanks,
Colin.









quote="rgh0"]
USA64 wrote:
change the coolant regularly, as the chemical protection from corrosion tend to be consumed over time...

Now that we have that settled (change my mind, esp. Rohan and his soft head :lol: ), does anyone have an opinion on regular vs extended life?


If you have the original style copper and solder radiator then conventional "IAT" inorganic acid technology antifreeze should be used as it protects these metals better. It normally has a recommended life of 2 years though I use a long life version from Nulon in Australia which lasts 4 years. The extended life "OAT" organic acid technology and "HOAT" hybrid organic acid technology was developed when cars went to Aluminium radiators and can be used if you have converted to a modern aluminium radiator. These have a normal life of 4 or 5 years though again long life versions exist and i use one from Nulon with an 8 year recommended life.

cheers
Rohan[/quote]
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PostPost by: 661 » Sun Nov 24, 2019 11:01 am

rgh0 wrote:If you have the original style copper and solder radiator then conventional "IAT" inorganic acid technology antifreeze should be used as it protects these metals better. It normally has a recommended life of 2 years though I use a long life version from Nulon in Australia which lasts 4 years. The extended life "OAT" organic acid technology and "HOAT" hybrid organic acid technology was developed when cars went to Aluminium radiators and can be used if you have converted to a modern aluminium radiator. These have a normal life of 4 or 5 years though again long life versions exist and i use one from Nulon with an 8 year recommended life.

cheers
Rohan

Most of us have aluminium heads and traditional radiators , so a mix of both metals and we use IAT. I believe you are saying OAT may have superior protection properties in the all aluminium set up but equally you are not saying that IAT would be detrimental, ie it would still be OK to use? Have I assumed that correctly?
IAT and OAT are a bad mix and I'd rather just have one type in the garage if possible and I'm happy to change regularly.
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PostPost by: 2cams70 » Sun Nov 24, 2019 1:14 pm

I would suggest sending an email to Fuchs directly and seeking their advice also. Coolants are a bit of a black art. Just because it lasts a long time does not mean it offers better corrosion protection especially in a 50 year old car. A traditional coolant changed regularly that contains a good anti-corrosion additive package may be a better solution if corrosion minimization is the intended objective. There's different grades of aluminium too. You can't assume that the aluminium used in the head of a 50 year old car is the same as a modern one.
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PostPost by: rgh0 » Tue Nov 26, 2019 9:59 am

fatboyoz wrote:Hi Rohan,
Can you please indicate which Nulon products are IAT.
Thanks,
Colin.


The Nulon none extended life ( 2 year life) green coolant was IAT. I dont think this is available anymore. The new extended life green coolant is HOAT and is supposed to be good for copper and brass and solder and compatible with the older IAT coolant and what I am using now on my Elan and PLus 2 and also the Esprit which has an aluminium radiator but has always used conventional green IAT . The Nulon Red coolant is OAT and what I use on my Landcruiser and sons Golf R32 which have always used this type of coolant. Nulon have a new yellow coolant also !!! not used or researched it yet but I see no need to change from what I am currently using.

This is a good review from a few years ago of all the complexity of coolant these days. If you read it you will see it talks about jelling problems if mixing coolant types which was an issue discussed a while ago here in a different thread!

http://donsnotes.com/home_garden/auto/antifreeze.html

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PostPost by: bill griffiths » Fri Jan 03, 2020 3:09 am

A friend from the UK arrived here early last year with his '70s sports car to run once more in the annual Targa Tasmania event.
He goes regularly to such events worldwide and uses Evans exclusively.
He told me that the fact that Evans fluid is not as good a conductor of heat as is plain water had never to his watchful and expert eye caused any discernable increase in engine temperature.
He told me that Evans does not wear out and that the virtual lack of pressure in the cooling system including of course hoses, gaskets and radiators extends the life of those components.
He also told me that Evans is an excellent corrosion inhibitor.
I had become increasingly concerned at the profusion of claims made for the 57 varieties of anti freeze, anti boil, corrosion inhibitors, red, green and probably mellow yellow, and so I made some enquiries of several manufacturers.
They advertised for example that their products were suitable for "classic " and "older" cars.
When I asked for details, I was told that these new, long (or shortish) lasting products were indeed just perfect for vehicles built as long ago (wait for it!) as the '90s.
But not suitable for the cars I then named!
I did my own research. Discovered that there were detractors, conspiracy theorists, costs analysts and expert views probably able to prove links with global warming.
My view after that research was that my friend's experience was probably accurate and so I purchased some.
I currently have converted one of my AMV8's, my Talbot 110, my MGB and now my rebuilt Plus 2. I can now confirm, first hand, those benefits.
I agree with whoever claimed to dislike engine temperatures climbing much above 100C but if it happens, (and I see no logic in simply ignoring 30C or 40C higher instead of having, long before, turned the ignition switch anti clockwise!) it is extremely comforting to know that whilst there is no fault thus demonstrated in Mr Evans product, neither is there unwanted pressure nor calamity at hand!
I hold no brief for Evans products.
Regards,
Bill
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