Lotus Elan

Elan engine removal time

PostPost by: RichardS » Sat Jan 27, 2018 6:21 pm

I now have rather more time for Elan matters (down to part time work) and have started on the list of things that need doing.

Reverse gear has jumped out for as long as I can remember and whereas I am used to holding the gearstick in position it does make reversing awkward at times so it was time to remove the gearbox for an overhaul.

Spent a couple of mornings disconnecting and draining. Then called on a friend to help with the final removal. It then took most of the day on Wednesday to get the engine and gearbox out. The engine crane we had borrowed did not reach far enough so resorted to block and tackle. We took our time and removed the engine first, then the gearbox, without damage to ourselves or the engine! I will take the gearbox over to Alan and Mark Voigts next week for their verdict.

There was no rush so a leisurely pace was enjoyable. But I was wondering how quickly one could get the engine out of an Elan from draining the radiator to on the floor if in a hurry? (Out of interest rather than a challenge!)

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PostPost by: Concrete-crusher » Sat Jan 27, 2018 8:01 pm

once everythings disconnected it took about 20 mins with a lift to split engine from gearbox and lift clear.

tomorrow I'm putting my engine back , i also found the lift arm too short so have extended it with some box section.

here you can see theres plenty of height and reach. I will let you know how long it takes

img_0985.jpg and
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PostPost by: el-saturn » Mon Jan 29, 2018 9:37 am

my best (removal) ALONE (just with my elephant) was 2,5 hrs - and 4hrs back in incl. cleaning, new gaskets etc.. and checking which takes longer! sandy
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PostPost by: RichardS » Mon Jan 29, 2018 1:40 pm

Sandy
Respect!
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PostPost by: JonB » Mon Jan 29, 2018 2:04 pm

That picture makes the engine look bigger than the car. I had to do a double take!
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PostPost by: ericbushby » Mon Jan 29, 2018 5:19 pm

Brian Buckland says it can be taken out in two hours, but he doesn`t say how long it took him the first time.
It took me two days first time and not much quicker the second time. That is with a chain block from the roof.
It took three of us all day and a lot of bacon butties to put it back in last time. That did not include fitting and connecting up some of the bits and pieces. Mind you we are all over 70 if that makes a difference.
I suggest you do it slowly and methodically and have a brew when it is all going wrong.
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PostPost by: Concrete-crusher » Tue Jan 30, 2018 7:37 am

Well Sunday was simply the reverse of removal as the manual say :D

I took a video , actually positioning and fitting the engine to the gearbox only took a few minutes but the last 20mm of fit took over 2 hours , I needed to turn the bolts both sides bit by bit to pull it in.

https://youtu.be/9DIpLhDUztg

I did fit a new spigot bearing , maybe that was tight , or maybe reading above it?s normal for the last bit to take some time.

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PostPost by: Certified Lotus » Sat Feb 10, 2018 12:13 pm

Steve, when I installed a new pilot bearing (spigot bearing) I test fitted it on the transmission main shaft before inserting into the crank. The bearing was too tight around the trans shaft and needed to be opened up a few thousand. There are two types of bearings, one is a bronze sleeve the other is a roller bearing. Which did you have?

Nice video!
Last edited by Certified Lotus on Sun Feb 11, 2018 11:45 am, edited 1 time in total.
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PostPost by: nmauduit » Sat Feb 10, 2018 12:43 pm

Certified Lotus wrote: The bearing was too tight around the trans shaft and needed to be opened up a few thousand. There are two types of bearings, one is a copper sleeve the other is a roller bearing. Which did you have?


the difference between the 2 is larger than a few thou:
the 4 bolt crank side is usually 17mm spigot (40mm crank hole for the bronze bushing) vs. 15mm for the 6 bolt version (21mm crank hole for the needle bearing)
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PostPost by: Certified Lotus » Sat Feb 10, 2018 1:12 pm

nmauduit wrote:
Certified Lotus wrote: The bearing was too tight around the trans shaft and needed to be opened up a few thousand. There are two types of bearings, one is a copper sleeve the other is a roller bearing. Which did you have?


the difference between the 2 is larger than a few thou:
the 4 bolt crank side is usually 17mm spigot (40mm crank hole for the bronze bushing) vs. 15mm for the 6 bolt version (21mm crank hole for the needle bearing)


I think you are reading my response differently than I intended. Yes, I am aware the two bearings are very different sizes, I was just asking which one he used as the bronze one can be easily opened up. Not so with the needle bearing.
Last edited by Certified Lotus on Sun Feb 11, 2018 11:45 am, edited 1 time in total.
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PostPost by: gjz30075 » Sat Feb 10, 2018 5:03 pm

Very understanding wife/daughter helping out?
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PostPost by: nmauduit » Sat Feb 10, 2018 5:29 pm

Certified Lotus wrote:I think you are reading my response differently than I intended.

possibly... in any case, for the sake of completeness on spigots and bearings dimensions, materials etc. here is below the table from the late Dave Bean catalog
p1040973.jpg and
gearbox spigot bearing most common options
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PostPost by: Concrete-crusher » Sun Feb 11, 2018 8:39 am

The spigot bearing was the roller type supplied by Burton engineering. I think I just quoted the 6 bolt crank from memory. Anyway it did go back in eventually. I?m almost done reconnecting everything , the real time goes on disconnecting and connecting all the ancillaries , exhaust and engine mounts.

I found the exhaust side engine mount , top rear bolt a pain to fit as it needs to clear the exhaust manifold going in.
I ended up taking the inner section of again to get the bolt in.

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PostPost by: Craven » Sun Feb 11, 2018 11:42 am

Not sure if this is part of the spigot bearing fit, a note in the workshop manual.
? Commencing at Engine No 18500, a needle roller spigot bearing has been fitted in current production engines?.
To accommodate this change, the bore in the crankshaft has been increased from:-
0.8252 ? 0.8264 To 0.8269 - 0.8270 inch
The crankshafts can only be distinguished by measuring the spigot bearing bore.
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