Lotus Elan

Elan Sprint-Engine appears to sit very high *Bonnet*

PostPost by: bloodknock » Thu Sep 28, 2017 9:23 pm

By the time Ive finished assembling and dis assembling this machine, it'll do it on its own.....but then they do the disassembly bit themselves as i remember it - dont they?
I've got a deadline, at 73, I want to finish it before I die!
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PostPost by: john.p.clegg » Fri Sep 29, 2017 7:43 am

My relieving... ( from below )

2014_0313engineout0005.jpg and


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PostPost by: bloodknock » Fri Sep 29, 2017 8:19 am

Hi John,
Looks very similar particularly the depth. Did you do it with engine in situ, if so have your fingers regrown yet?
Did You find that it helped get the down pipes in more easily? Thats my next task, re threading them! It took me ages the first time.
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PostPost by: bloodknock » Fri Sep 29, 2017 8:32 am

Rohan, Alan,
The car came off the road in about 1975/6 Here is a picture of the surface of the down pipes showing surface corrosion that existed prior to cleaning and ceramic coating.
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exhaust-pipe-surface-pitting.jpg and
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PostPost by: john.p.clegg » Fri Sep 29, 2017 8:34 am

Bob
From memory did it with a burr in the drill ( engine in situ ) and as for the threading in the exhaust...it's a little like the diff...sometimes it's a struggle , sometimes it falls out.

Good luck

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PostPost by: alan.barker » Fri Sep 29, 2017 9:28 am

john.p.clegg wrote:My relieving... ( from below )

2014_0313engineout0005.JPG


John :wink:

Exactly the same as the cut out i did on my Sprint Chassis.
When i remove the Engine before putting it back i put the exhaust manifold in the engine bay. Tied to the side with some string.
Before refitting the head always put manifold loose in engine bay.
A friend of mine visited Miles Wilkins years ago and watched him fit a head in an Elan.
After my friend said to Miles i think you have forgotten to put the manifold in place first.
Miles was very mad and the air was blue :evil: :evil: :mrgreen:
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PostPost by: MarkDa » Fri Sep 29, 2017 10:39 am

Bob
You'll have to reckon that if you got them off without the extra room on the chassis then going back should be easier!
I thought perceived wisdom was to attach before engine installation, they don't actually a get in the way when doing it.
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PostPost by: bloodknock » Fri Sep 29, 2017 8:28 pm

Done it!
Last edited by bloodknock on Fri Sep 29, 2017 8:37 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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PostPost by: bloodknock » Fri Sep 29, 2017 8:35 pm

Yes that makes sense, however the block and box went into the chassis even before the shell went back on. However, before I discovered the interferrence snag I had assembled them with the head when i put it on.
To get the space to do the chassis mod I jacked the engine as I removed the NS engine mount completely, jacked the engine to a safe maximum, removed the dynamo and then th manifold.
Its true that the relief makes reassembly easier but its still a bugger, there is certainly sufficient clearance for the manifold now.
Attachments
manifold-refitted.jpg and
manifold-refitted-2.jpg and
exhaust-manifold-to-chassis-better-clearance.jpg and
After
exhaust-manifold-not-much-space-2.jpg and
Before
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PostPost by: mbell » Fri Sep 29, 2017 9:59 pm

It's interesting that the header for the 4th appears shaped to give extra clearance for the chassis but it wasn't enough. It looks like if the rear of the engine was slightly higher there might have been more clearance and the problem avoided.

Is that possible or am I just seeing things in the photo's?
'73 +2 130/5 RHD, now on the road and very slowly rolling though a "restoration"
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PostPost by: alan.barker » Sat Sep 30, 2017 7:26 am

Well done :D 71 is approaching fast :wink:
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PostPost by: bloodknock » Sat Sep 30, 2017 8:20 am

I think that the photo is misleading, the fourth was always clear albeit by about 5mm, it was the No3 which gave trouble.
exhaust-downpipes.jpg and

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PostPost by: MarkDa » Mon Oct 02, 2017 3:53 pm

Going back to the location of the heater valve and why the factory installed it at the rear.
Presumably so the hose could be connected easily to the rear facing outlet.
Swapping round with temp sensor gets everything in the way of each other - valve fouling capillary and bowden against footwell?
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PostPost by: bloodknock » Mon Oct 02, 2017 7:12 pm

Thats the way I saw it.
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PostPost by: billwill » Mon Oct 02, 2017 11:31 pm

MarkDa wrote:Going back to the location of the heater valve and why the factory installed it at the rear.
Presumably so the hose could be connected easily to the rear facing outlet.
Swapping round with temp sensor gets everything in the way of each other - valve fouling capillary and bowden against footwell?



That's a bit of "Greek Philosphy" !
In practice swapping the two over is not a problem, except that the heater hose pipes might be too short.
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