Elan Sprint-Engine appears to sit very high *Bonnet*
61 posts
• Page 2 of 5 • 1, 2, 3, 4, 5
Has anyone else cocked up similarly and aside from reversing the temp gauge and heater control, how did you solve it, or God forbid, have I got to remove the head to fix it?
Regards
Bob
Regards
Bob
I've got a deadline, at 73, I want to finish it before I die!
-
bloodknock - Fourth Gear
- Posts: 598
- Joined: 04 Jun 2012
bloodknock wrote:Has anyone else cocked up similarly and aside from reversing the temp gauge and heater control, how did you solve it, or God forbid, have I got to remove the head to fix it?
Regards
Bob
Not sure what you mean by 'cocked up' here. My water valve has been in the front position since about 1983, its a far more sensible hole to put it in as the valve can be unscrewed there with the engine bolted into its normal mounts.
For some unknown reason they all came out of Lotus with the water valve in the rear position.
<later>
Oh, I see from the photos that you have put the head on before you put the water valve in and you want to be 'standard' with the water valve in the rear position.
I have heard, but never tried that if you put the engine on a jack and remove the left hand mount and loosen the right hand mount, you can jack up the engine high enough to insert the water valve.
Others have dismantled the watervavle to make it shorter, screwed the shortened valve into the block and then reassembled the valve.
Bill Williams
36/6725 S3 Coupe OGU108E Yellow over Black.
36/6725 S3 Coupe OGU108E Yellow over Black.
- billwill
- Coveted Fifth Gear
- Posts: 5064
- Joined: 19 Apr 2008
OK Bill, a couple of possibilities i'll look at
Thanks
Bob
Thanks
Bob
I've got a deadline, at 73, I want to finish it before I die!
-
bloodknock - Fourth Gear
- Posts: 598
- Joined: 04 Jun 2012
My biggest clearance issue is that with new engine mounts the air box fouls the bonnet edge lip. Quite bad now, presumably because the mount is stiffer/higher. Looking at the air box it probably always did to a certain extent.
It's worn paint off the wing and bonnet by pushing them together - fortunately not visible with bonnet closed.
I do have clearance available over the footwell so will be filing out the mountings to ease it a bit.
I will have to guess how much the rubber will settle so I don't get the problem in reverse later on!
It's worn paint off the wing and bonnet by pushing them together - fortunately not visible with bonnet closed.
I do have clearance available over the footwell so will be filing out the mountings to ease it a bit.
I will have to guess how much the rubber will settle so I don't get the problem in reverse later on!
- MarkDa
- Coveted Fifth Gear
- Posts: 1215
- Joined: 15 Apr 2017
What Fun!!!
I Decided to go with Bills second option, stripping the valve and assembling it in situ. So, in stripping it down I decided to give it a good clean and silicon grease. PING?The small (minute) e clip which fits on the actuation shaft end vanished into thin air. Two hours of crawling around on the garage floor and surrounds with a rare earth magnet failed to locate it. I have a Bermuda triangle in my garage for such parts!
Any way, thought I, I?ll try doing further work perhaps it will reappear. So, I examined the clearance I would need to reassemble the valve on the car and I estimate I?ll have to lift the exhaust side of the engine about an inch. (25.4 mm in foreign), it may be do-able. Whilst examining this aspect I noticed that the threads in the head could do with chasing?.. Any one know the size??? I?m thinking that they may be the same as the water tap off on the timing chest???
OK thought I, I?ll get a suitable tap and sort that. Meanwhile, lets just check the thread on the temperature sensor, a refurbished instrument from years ago. Low and behold, it?s a female fitting! Where I need a male fitting to go into the threaded hole in the head!!
That?s it , time for a beer and gentle sob!
So, can someone please:
? identify the thread sizes for me
? Advise on the temp sensor fitting ( I guess I?ll need a male to male adaptor?should it have one in the car from new?
? Have I got to buy one of the fleabay circlip kits just to find one minute E clip for the heater valve OR indeed buy a new valve?
I Decided to go with Bills second option, stripping the valve and assembling it in situ. So, in stripping it down I decided to give it a good clean and silicon grease. PING?The small (minute) e clip which fits on the actuation shaft end vanished into thin air. Two hours of crawling around on the garage floor and surrounds with a rare earth magnet failed to locate it. I have a Bermuda triangle in my garage for such parts!
Any way, thought I, I?ll try doing further work perhaps it will reappear. So, I examined the clearance I would need to reassemble the valve on the car and I estimate I?ll have to lift the exhaust side of the engine about an inch. (25.4 mm in foreign), it may be do-able. Whilst examining this aspect I noticed that the threads in the head could do with chasing?.. Any one know the size??? I?m thinking that they may be the same as the water tap off on the timing chest???
OK thought I, I?ll get a suitable tap and sort that. Meanwhile, lets just check the thread on the temperature sensor, a refurbished instrument from years ago. Low and behold, it?s a female fitting! Where I need a male fitting to go into the threaded hole in the head!!
That?s it , time for a beer and gentle sob!
So, can someone please:
? identify the thread sizes for me
? Advise on the temp sensor fitting ( I guess I?ll need a male to male adaptor?should it have one in the car from new?
? Have I got to buy one of the fleabay circlip kits just to find one minute E clip for the heater valve OR indeed buy a new valve?
I've got a deadline, at 73, I want to finish it before I die!
-
bloodknock - Fourth Gear
- Posts: 598
- Joined: 04 Jun 2012
The head threads are BSP orginally tapered but may now be corroded and or worn to some degree. I cant recall the diameter offhand and dinner is cooking so no time to check !!
The male to male adapter is original from new and sold by the usual suppliers. The thread forms are different each end I cant remember the exact details but I think one is tapered to match the head and the other straight to match the temp gunge fitting.
cheers
Rohan
The male to male adapter is original from new and sold by the usual suppliers. The thread forms are different each end I cant remember the exact details but I think one is tapered to match the head and the other straight to match the temp gunge fitting.
cheers
Rohan
-
rgh0 - Coveted Fifth Gear
- Posts: 8847
- Joined: 22 Sep 2003
Thanks Chaps
Today Ive conducted further searches for that damn e clip, nada! so resignation to shelling out ?20 ish for a new valve, shame, the old one was pretty good.
Anyway, ive now resorted to option one of Bills suggestions and low and behold the prerequisite clearance can be obtained. Just removed C40L to get better access, held engine with trolley jack, then removed the two chassis mounting bolts. Couple of pumps whilst using original valve body as a gauge and there you go.
Wow its tight down there!
Thanks for the help.
Bob
Today Ive conducted further searches for that damn e clip, nada! so resignation to shelling out ?20 ish for a new valve, shame, the old one was pretty good.
Anyway, ive now resorted to option one of Bills suggestions and low and behold the prerequisite clearance can be obtained. Just removed C40L to get better access, held engine with trolley jack, then removed the two chassis mounting bolts. Couple of pumps whilst using original valve body as a gauge and there you go.
Wow its tight down there!
Thanks for the help.
Bob
I've got a deadline, at 73, I want to finish it before I die!
-
bloodknock - Fourth Gear
- Posts: 598
- Joined: 04 Jun 2012
PS whilst under the beast checked gearbx spacers were in place
I've got a deadline, at 73, I want to finish it before I die!
-
bloodknock - Fourth Gear
- Posts: 598
- Joined: 04 Jun 2012
Read about my trials and tribulations with the temp gauge sensor and water valve from here:
lotus-elan-f19/getting-ogu-roadworthy-again-t26101-15.html#p172491
In my rebuild topic, here:
lotus-elan-f19/getting-ogu-roadworthy-again-t26101.html?hilit=head%20sas
The bit about thread sizes of the adaptors starts on Page 3 lotus-elan-f19/getting-ogu-roadworthy-again-t26101-30.html#p172633
It seems the adaptor is a standard plumbing part.
lotus-elan-f19/getting-ogu-roadworthy-again-t26101-15.html#p172491
In my rebuild topic, here:
lotus-elan-f19/getting-ogu-roadworthy-again-t26101.html?hilit=head%20sas
The bit about thread sizes of the adaptors starts on Page 3 lotus-elan-f19/getting-ogu-roadworthy-again-t26101-30.html#p172633
It seems the adaptor is a standard plumbing part.
Bill Williams
36/6725 S3 Coupe OGU108E Yellow over Black.
36/6725 S3 Coupe OGU108E Yellow over Black.
- billwill
- Coveted Fifth Gear
- Posts: 5064
- Joined: 19 Apr 2008
Rohan, I think youre right.
Now ive put it all back and tightened the manifold bolts No2 just touches the chassis rail.
??I never had this issue before I stripped it, and it is a genuine replacement galvanised lotus chassis purchased in1982.?? Is this another LOTUS phenomena? So, how much does the chassis have to be fettled? metal removed or bent? Will metal removal be detrimental?
The real pisser here is that I'm striving for originality!
So, how much, where and how?
Regards
Bob
Now ive put it all back and tightened the manifold bolts No2 just touches the chassis rail.
??I never had this issue before I stripped it, and it is a genuine replacement galvanised lotus chassis purchased in1982.?? Is this another LOTUS phenomena? So, how much does the chassis have to be fettled? metal removed or bent? Will metal removal be detrimental?
The real pisser here is that I'm striving for originality!
So, how much, where and how?
Regards
Bob
I've got a deadline, at 73, I want to finish it before I die!
-
bloodknock - Fourth Gear
- Posts: 598
- Joined: 04 Jun 2012
Originality requires a header to the original Lotus design that used smaller diameter primary pipes bent tighter against the block than is typically obtained from suppliers these days. These original headers look too skinny these days
There was a thread a while ago with pictures of the various style cutouts people have done to the top flange to clear the typical header you get these days.
I did my mods using panel beating hammers to bend down the edge of the top lip to create an elliptical shaped clearance space around the headers. The maximum depth of the ellipse was about 15 mm to give the needed clearance with the large pipe TTR headers I use in my Elan.
cheers
Rohan
There was a thread a while ago with pictures of the various style cutouts people have done to the top flange to clear the typical header you get these days.
I did my mods using panel beating hammers to bend down the edge of the top lip to create an elliptical shaped clearance space around the headers. The maximum depth of the ellipse was about 15 mm to give the needed clearance with the large pipe TTR headers I use in my Elan.
cheers
Rohan
-
rgh0 - Coveted Fifth Gear
- Posts: 8847
- Joined: 22 Sep 2003
I had the same problem with my Sprint Lotus galvanised Chassis. When i fitted a stainless exhaust manifold I chose to make a cut out but imho i think what Rohan did is better to bend the Chassis flange.
Alan
Alan
Alan.b Brittany 1972 elan sprint fhc Lagoon Blue 0460E
- alan.barker
- Coveted Fifth Gear
- Posts: 3738
- Joined: 06 Dec 2008
61 posts
• Page 2 of 5 • 1, 2, 3, 4, 5
Total Online:
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 8 guests