Lotus Elan

Timing Chain Cork Gasket Access on TC

PostPost by: silver.bullet » Wed Jul 27, 2016 7:55 pm

Hello all, I was wondering if anybody knew whether the cork gasket that sits between the timing chain cover and the head could be accessed and replaced by taking off the timing chain cover only and adhering it from beneath with the head in place? (Gasket has expanded out and have an oil leak here). Would the back plate, paper gasket and water pump also have to come off at the same time? Or is it easier to just take the head off and replace all the upper gaskets? Also does any one have any suggestions on current cork gasket sealent to use? The manual suggests 3M EC776 one side and hylomar the other. Thanks David.
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PostPost by: englishmaninwales » Wed Jul 27, 2016 11:11 pm

I would only attempt to replace the timing cover to cylinder head cork gasket by removing the cylinder head. I use gasket adhesive ( ? EC776 is a gasket adhesive too) on the lower surface and Wellseal on the upper. I avoid Hylomar and silicone sealants as they harden, break off ang clog the gauze oil pick up.
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PostPost by: silver.bullet » Thu Jul 28, 2016 7:30 am

Many thanks for your advice, I'm also starting to think the head off route is the best solution. Hopefully I will see you on those nice North Wales roads soon (oil drip free) :)
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PostPost by: tvacc » Thu Jul 28, 2016 5:04 pm

I have tried it without removing the head. Of the 3 or 4 times I have only one was successful, One leaked and the other one I destroyed the Bean removable water pump insert by trying to force it in. Really stupid.

Take off the head.

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PostPost by: silver.bullet » Fri Jul 29, 2016 10:08 am

Thanks Tony, definately sounds the way forward.
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PostPost by: billwill » Fri Jul 29, 2016 12:45 pm

To successfully remove & replace the front timing case with the head on, you have to lower the sump, so it is just as much work as taking off the head.

Also you have to slice cork & other gaskets to fit and have to put extra sealant in the cut corner with risk of blobs getting into the oil.

So though I personally have done it once or twice I don't reccommend it.
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PostPost by: nomad » Sun Jul 31, 2016 1:18 am

My engine had the top of the chain case extensively stippled with a center punch to help hold that gasket. I deepened what was there and added some plus triple bond case bond on the case and grease on the head side. Engine not running yet so we will see. It looked like a trouble spot.

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PostPost by: john.p.clegg » Sun Jul 31, 2016 10:09 am

Like this....

2014_0216engine0004.jpg and


top and bottom to hold both gaskets

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PostPost by: nomad » Sun Jul 31, 2016 12:23 pm

That ought to work!

Similarly, there are products that will hold a gasket very well. The triple bond works well and I once tore down a BMC A series that the PO had used what appeared to be liquid nails to hold the timing case seal. I couldn't get the parts apart without a thin putty knife driven through the gasket. The gasket to metal bond never did let go and the parts went into the 'need if desperate' pile.
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PostPost by: Hawksfield » Sun Jul 31, 2016 12:49 pm

Data Sheet permatex 80019Aviation Form-AGasket No3.pdf
(139.45 KiB) Downloaded 263 times
Hi siverbullet

I use permatex as data sheet, works well
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PostPost by: nomad » Mon Aug 01, 2016 3:23 am

Hawksfield wrote:
Data Sheet permatex 80019Aviation Form-AGasket No3.pdf
Hi siverbullet

I use permatex as data sheet, works well


I bet I've used at least a quart of 'Aviation Form-a-gasket' in my life and its great stuff if you let it tack up first and don't apply it to heavily. The 'Three Bond' is specifically designed to harden anaerobically. It is very close to the Yamaha case bond that I used in my motorcycle days to seal cases without any gasket. I put together a few non leaking British engines in the past with it as well and I like it! :lol:

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