Update Engine + Box Removed

PostPost by: Wevster » Sat Oct 17, 2015 7:04 pm

Hi everyone

As promised update of engine removal, split lump from box, hoist reach not long enough from front, so as suggested whipped wheel off and up over the wheel arch. 2 man job pulling box + prop up and out. Took about an hour or so.
Thanks for all suggestions and advice.
Now the real work begins.

Kev.
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PostPost by: Europatc » Sat Oct 17, 2015 11:18 pm

Good day then, good job, well done
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PostPost by: Mr.Gale » Sun Oct 18, 2015 6:04 pm

OUCH! By the looks of your water pump housing you have a serious corrosion problem. I haven't done it but I understand a zinc sacrificial anode installed in the cooling system will significantly reduce corrosion. I plan on doing it soon I just need to figure out where to install it.

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PostPost by: Wevster » Sun Oct 18, 2015 6:47 pm

Good spot. I was surprised to see that too, hopefully not as bad inside! Housing can be replaced at cost,or i may also be able to get it repaired. The cars new to me and not sure of history, coolant was good when drained, suspect previous owner had it serviced before sale. The motor was fine before removal and never had any over heating issues, although various oil leaks has caused contamination every where! The 5 speed gearbox is the issue, suspect rebuild.
Anodes could be a good idea, however it is 43 years old.

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PostPost by: rgh0 » Mon Oct 19, 2015 11:01 am

What you see there is "crevice corrosion". it is not uncommon where hoses are clamped to alloy components or in similar circumstance such as under rubber gaskets in stainless steel plate heat exchangers. The microscopic narrow gap between the hose and alloy prevents circulation of fluid and the stagnant fluid allows a depletion of the corrosion inhibitors and build up of active corrosion cells until the components corrodes from the outside in.

Often you just see it in the inlet and outlet house connections to the engine with no significant corrosion anywhere else.

Removing the hoses every couple of years and cleaning any corrosion products off the alloy and sealing with silicone sealant and refilling with fresh coolant (which you should do any couple of years anyhow) can stop it effectively.

cheers
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PostPost by: l10tus » Tue Oct 20, 2015 7:56 am

Kev,

Good advice from Rohan,

I recently had to replace my broken heater valve ( the part that screws into the head next to the temperature sensor bulb) - it's only been on the car weeks, but was virtually blocked with heating water 'Gunge' !

Can't believe how fast corrosion starts taking effect!

I had drained the system and used neat tap water to temporarily refill, (as I knew I'd got to drain again in a few weeks.)

I drained the system, replaced the valve and refilled with Alphi 2 / tapwater mix.

As you say, this situation needs checking regularly by the looks of it ?

Good luck with the engine rip- down - and remember it's all rebuild able !

Regards,

Phil.
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Sometimes my Lotus makes me cry.
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PostPost by: Wevster » Tue Oct 20, 2015 11:11 am

Thanks for the advice, I will keep you posted on future rebuild. At the moment I need to sort gearbox. Will need rebuild, hoping Graham Boulton can do the job. Have to work out how to get box from Guernsey to Norfolk + back!

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