Engine/gearbox Removal
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Hi Everyone
Motor and box to be removed tomorrow morning, hopefully everything disconnected or removed and ready. Any advice on removing? Was going to remove engine then box. What's the best way to rig up ropes strops etc? Was going to raise front end of car to aid getting underneath. Any tips welcome.
Kev.
Motor and box to be removed tomorrow morning, hopefully everything disconnected or removed and ready. Any advice on removing? Was going to remove engine then box. What's the best way to rig up ropes strops etc? Was going to raise front end of car to aid getting underneath. Any tips welcome.
Kev.
- Wevster
- Second Gear
- Posts: 103
- Joined: 26 Feb 2015
Kev,
Lots of views but IMO taking the engine out first is best. Then go for the box. I raise the front on Axles stands under the VAC tank and this allows me to come in from the side with the wheels of the engine crane. Mind the wheel arch (put blanket on).I also lift the back with some wood under the rear wheels. I use a strop with a swivel link on the crane hook so you can spin and position the engine in the line of the car when lifting out and putting back in. Also use a little bottle jack and piece of wood under the sump to hold the engine with all the bolts out etc. I leave the Gbox cross member in place and just split the rubber mount centre bolt so it still supports part of the box. I also jack a piece of wood across under the chassis so the gearbox can not droop down as the engine come away. I do all this on my own.
I only tried to put an engine and box combined in a Plus 2 once (and had help) but it was a PITA and the car had to be lifted higher. People say it is easy but I found it stressful and the sandwich plate kept catching on the engine mounting brackets on the chassis. Also the angle with the gearbox tail hosing and getting it over the chassis entrance. I gave up in the end. Also think about coupling the prop shaft up when putting the kit back in. I find it easier just handling the gearbox on it's own at this stage.
I am sure I will be wrong. Good luck.
Mike
Mike
Lots of views but IMO taking the engine out first is best. Then go for the box. I raise the front on Axles stands under the VAC tank and this allows me to come in from the side with the wheels of the engine crane. Mind the wheel arch (put blanket on).I also lift the back with some wood under the rear wheels. I use a strop with a swivel link on the crane hook so you can spin and position the engine in the line of the car when lifting out and putting back in. Also use a little bottle jack and piece of wood under the sump to hold the engine with all the bolts out etc. I leave the Gbox cross member in place and just split the rubber mount centre bolt so it still supports part of the box. I also jack a piece of wood across under the chassis so the gearbox can not droop down as the engine come away. I do all this on my own.
I only tried to put an engine and box combined in a Plus 2 once (and had help) but it was a PITA and the car had to be lifted higher. People say it is easy but I found it stressful and the sandwich plate kept catching on the engine mounting brackets on the chassis. Also the angle with the gearbox tail hosing and getting it over the chassis entrance. I gave up in the end. Also think about coupling the prop shaft up when putting the kit back in. I find it easier just handling the gearbox on it's own at this stage.
I am sure I will be wrong. Good luck.
Mike
Mike
Mike
Elan S4 Zetec
Suzuki Hustler T250
Suzuki TC120R trailcat
Yamaha YR5
Suzuki Vstrom 650XT
Suzuki TS185K
Elan S4 Zetec
Suzuki Hustler T250
Suzuki TC120R trailcat
Yamaha YR5
Suzuki Vstrom 650XT
Suzuki TS185K
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miked - Coveted Fifth Gear
- Posts: 1191
- Joined: 29 Sep 2003
There are many topics on this forum about engine removal.
http://www.lotuselan.net/cgi-bin/search ... oom_sort=0
I recall that one member made a complete checklist of all the items that you have to disconnect, relatively recently i.e this year or last year.
lotus-twincam-f39/quick-engine-removal-and-replace-tips-tricks-wanted-t31028.html#p207873
lotus-twincam-f39/pulling-the-engine-transmission-spyder-frame-t25077.html
Opinion is split on whether or not to take the engine & gearbox together or undo them and take the engine out alone.
I personally have always take both together. If so you need a high hoist as the engine+gearbox will be nearly vertical towards the end of the lift. Drain the gearbox of oil first or you will regret it, as once the propshaft has slipped out off the splines and the gearbox it tilted all the oil will pour out of the back end. If the hoist is in a fixed place, at the end of the procedure, you need one person to hold up the tail of the gearbox while another pushes the car out from underneath it.
Having seen a twin-cam engine in a scrapyard which had had a front collision pushing the engine back and noted that all four inlet pipes had sheared from the cylinder head I would no longer lift the engine with ropes merely around the inlet pipes and the thermostat housing. I alway rig a rope under the sump as well. I use a long rope and a steel ring and tie the rope to the ring at each pass around an engine part.
If you intend to strip the engine anyway. It is easier to take the head off the engine before taking the engine out of the car.
~~~~~~~~
edited to fix typing errors.
http://www.lotuselan.net/cgi-bin/search ... oom_sort=0
I recall that one member made a complete checklist of all the items that you have to disconnect, relatively recently i.e this year or last year.
lotus-twincam-f39/quick-engine-removal-and-replace-tips-tricks-wanted-t31028.html#p207873
lotus-twincam-f39/pulling-the-engine-transmission-spyder-frame-t25077.html
Opinion is split on whether or not to take the engine & gearbox together or undo them and take the engine out alone.
I personally have always take both together. If so you need a high hoist as the engine+gearbox will be nearly vertical towards the end of the lift. Drain the gearbox of oil first or you will regret it, as once the propshaft has slipped out off the splines and the gearbox it tilted all the oil will pour out of the back end. If the hoist is in a fixed place, at the end of the procedure, you need one person to hold up the tail of the gearbox while another pushes the car out from underneath it.
Having seen a twin-cam engine in a scrapyard which had had a front collision pushing the engine back and noted that all four inlet pipes had sheared from the cylinder head I would no longer lift the engine with ropes merely around the inlet pipes and the thermostat housing. I alway rig a rope under the sump as well. I use a long rope and a steel ring and tie the rope to the ring at each pass around an engine part.
If you intend to strip the engine anyway. It is easier to take the head off the engine before taking the engine out of the car.
~~~~~~~~
edited to fix typing errors.
Last edited by billwill on Fri Oct 16, 2015 2:09 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Bill Williams
36/6725 S3 Coupe OGU108E Yellow over Black.
36/6725 S3 Coupe OGU108E Yellow over Black.
- billwill
- Coveted Fifth Gear
- Posts: 4405
- Joined: 19 Apr 2008
I have found it easiest to remove the cylinder head first followed by the block and gearbox as a unit. With the head off you can use the tapped holes for the cylinder head bolts and secure locators for lifting gear. Going back in it is much easier to mate the block to the gearbox first. It can be a struggle to get the gearbox input shaft to align nicely if the gearbox is already in the chassis.
Russ Newton
Elan +2S (1971)
Elite S2 (1962)
Elan +2S (1971)
Elite S2 (1962)
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CBUEB1771 - Coveted Fifth Gear
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- Joined: 09 Nov 2006
If you are using an engine crane from the front of the car check to see if it has enough reach. I found with mine I had to remove the safety pin from the jib and extend the reach by about a foot. My crane is fairly substantial so this didn't cause a problem. As mentioned I found it easier to remove the engine first.
- Mick6186
- Second Gear
- Posts: 215
- Joined: 11 Mar 2014
Yes, I had the same issue - the engine crane didn't have enough reach from the front of the car, and that was on a 2-seater. I could pull the engine out with the ropes at an angle from the crane and in fact that encouraged the engine to separate from the gearbox. But it wouldn't go back in from the front. I had to use the crane at the side which is less than ideal as the crane wheels aren't designed to go sideways.
Mike
Mike
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TroonSprint - Fourth Gear
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