Plug leads?

[Grizzly]

I have a feeling this is a daft question but should i get Continuity between the Distributor cap and the Spark plug?

I've been trying to get my car to start but the Spark seems really weak considering it has a fully charged battery,New Coil and the grounds are all fresh, i stuck the Multi meter across the plug lead and i didn't get continuity? But with them being Carbon cored leads does it work like that?

[UAB807F]

If you mean between the distributor cap pillars and plug connector then there will be some resistance so what range have you got your meter set on ?

I have copper cored leads with NGK suppressed connectors and I think they are 5k. Presumably the carbon leads should be somewhere around that range ?

Brian

[Grizzly]

I think i've found my issue, with the Multimeter turned to 5k and 20k i'm getting nothing on the four plug leads but 15k on the HT lead.

They look like no make cheap leads so i might just go and buy some quality ones to save allot of messing about.

Thanks for your help.

[Galwaylotus]

I have copper cored leads with NGK suppressed connectors and I think they are 5k. Presumably the carbon leads should be somewhere around that range ?
Brian

5k ohms sounds right. I offer one caution. I installed electronic ignition and when the unit failed I contacted the supplier whose first question was whether I had copper core leads. He said they would contribute to unit failure. Now I can't say for certain whether or not they did but when I ordered a new module I bought a set of their (carbon core) leads in case they were a factor. The new silicone leads weren't very expensive so I thought it was good insurance.

[UAB807F]

5k ohms sounds right. I offer one caution. I installed electronic ignition and when the unit failed I contacted the supplier whose first question was whether I had copper core leads. He said they would contribute to unit failure. Now I can't say for certain whether or not they did but when I ordered a new module I bought a set of their (carbon core) leads in case they were a factor. The new silicone leads weren't very expensive so I thought it was good insurance.

Drifting off thread a touch, but yep, I've heard the same message about copper leads so when I first fitted the Pertronix I also changed to carbon leads from a UK supplier.

But I was never happy with them - the quality for one thing, but then I couldn't really get my head around the resistance; if it's down to the core then surely it's an "x ohms per inch" or whatever, so every lead showed a different resistance on my meter. In the end I went back to copper with a known resistor, every lead showing the same figure. Fingers crossed, it's been ok so far.

Brian

[Grizzly]

I think i've found my problem, i took my leads out of the Cap and the pointed screw hadn't pierced the lead in the center so i'm guessing it hadn't gone all the way through the Insulation (which is odd as the car does run just quite badly)

[Lyn7]

Hi guys, I am glad the issue is resolved. On the subject of copper leads I have been running them with Lumenition Optronic ignition for more than 20 years with no problem. Also run them on another car with Magnetronic ignition and also no problem. However I am about to change to silicon leads just to see if there is a difference in the running?
Regards Lyn...