Crankshaft front oil seal

[thorbs000]

Hi all
Before I put my engine onto my restored chassis I thought it my be wise to renew the front and rear crankshaft oil seals. I understand how to do the rear one but how do you remove the front one?
I have removed the pulley and it looks like the seal somehow comes out from the front. Is this correct & what do you use to get it out and put the new one in?
I was thinking you may have to prise it out, but thought I would ask first.

Thanks
Ian

+2. 1968

[alan]

with both the rear and front lipseals it's better if the alloy housings are removed. This enables you to gently warm the alloy housing which helps when tapping the seal into place without damage

[gearbox]

I just use a seal removal tool, basically a thin needle like tool with a bent tip. You can find them at any auto parts store or Sears. Slide the bent tip behind the seal and pull. You may have to work around the seal, but it does eventually come out. Then just tap a seal in place flush with the outside water chest. Don't go too far as I recall there is no land for the seal to seat home. A little oil helps the seal to slide in so you don't accidentally rip the rubber coating. Good luck, Allan

[Quart Meg Miles]

With the crank still in you don't have many options and Gearbox's suggestion is as good as any. It could be levered out but don't scratch the crank or casing.

The new seal should be smeared with oil on the seal face but Wellseal on the outside. Keeping it straight is difficult without a special tool, though it is reasonably tolerant, and striking through a block of wood will spread the load better than using a drift. Don't push it beyond flush, there's no flange to stop it.

[Chris]

I have removed this seal in the past by punching two small holes diametrically opposite, and screwing in two self tapping screws you can then lever under their heads. I would stress this is an emergency only operation, but it can work.
Word of warning! use a very sharp needle pointed punch to make the holes, an old 1/8" twist drill ground sharp will do. Also, as there is no backstop for the seal if it moves you are in trouble.
Fitting the new seal can be done by first lubricating it then pressing it in to place using the pulley and bolt as a press.
Good luck
Chris

[YellowS4DHC]

I just replaced my front oil seal a couple of months back. I lubricated it as others have mentioned (oil on the lips, Hylomar on the OD) and installed it simply using finger pressure, no tool required. As there is no interior lip for the seal to seat against, I used the contour of the front cover to align the seal. Mine went in very easily and I initially worried that it went in TOO easily, but I've and checked it often and it hasn't moved and has no leaks.

Rick

[512BB]

If you are carrying out just an engine rebuild, and then replacing the engine and away you go, then oiling the front and rear seals should be fine.

But even then, an engine rebuild can take longer than anticipated, and a car restoration certainly will, and the oil on both those seals will drain away to nothing, leaving the seal dry, resulting in damage to the seal on start up.

If you GREASE the crank pulley and the surface of the crank where the rear oil seal sits, no damage will be done to the seal if you do not start the engine for 100 years. The same for the input flange and output shafts on the diff. Grease will also stop the surfaces of those parts from rusting, before use.

Leslie