Head to block oil leak

[AChen]

69 S4 Elan.

I replace the head gasket with copper/steel one because it was leaking oil between the head and block. After replacement, the interface still leaks. ARGH!!!

Most comments online point to the oil pressure feed channel between head and block as most likely source. What's the best solution?

i) Head gasket with larger oil feed crush seal that encircles the entire kidney shaped oil feed hole.
ii) Weld off the oil feed hole in the head, drill a slanted hole, and resurface head,
iii) or encircle kidney shaped oil feed hole with aviation sealant.

Thanks,
Tony

[rgh0]

Hi Tony
There are a lot of joins and gaskets that meet in that corner of the block with head and front cover. Clean the area and examine it very carefully as the leak starts to come through to verify the leak is truly from the head to block join adjacent to the oil passage and not from the head to front cover or block to front cover joins.

I would do the following if its from the pressurised oil passage.

1. Examine the head and block faces to ensure they are flat and with no corrosion in the area. If they need a light skim to get flat and with a good surface finish I would do that.
2. I would use a small bead of Loctite 515 master gasket or similar around the oil passage on both sides of the head gasket. You could use Loctite No3 aviation gasket sealant as an alternative. This should not be needed if the surfaces of the block and head are flat and with a good finish but could be added as extra insurance. Don't get the sealant near the cylinder fire rings as the higher temperatures in this area would cause a potential failure as the sealant degrades.
3. Ensure the head is assembled to the correct torque with the bolt threads and threads in the block clean and lightly oiled. Re-torque the head immediately after the first heat cycle and then again after a couple of hours running.

cheers
Rohan

[AChen]

Rohan,

As always, thanks for offering your technical expertise. I will try with the aviation seal, when I get some time.

Regards,
Tony

[AChen]

Just an update on my oil leak.

I checked the flatness of head and block again with a level and feeler gauges. Within spec. Less than 0.001" as it was when I previously checked. I replaced the head again with some aviation sealant around the oil pressure feed and the oil return holes. Also found a small leak in the core plug on the head. Put head back together. No leaks for now. YEA!!

Ran the Elan yesterday around the hills and the water pump pulley/flange fell off. Managed to get it (very loose) and the belt back on. Drove home slowly.

I guess the aluminum flange had worked loose, started slipping, and wore itself even looser. It was very loose on the water pump shaft. I received this flange as part of the water pump replacement kit I got DBE. I'll put the old steel one back today.

Tony

[rgh0]

Hi Tony

Normally you press the pulley flange on while supporting the pump shaft to prevent overloading the bearing race or moving the bearing in the housing.

You cant do this unless you dismantle the front cover or if you have a removable cartridge style pump, pull out the cartridge.

If you don't want to or cant do either it may work if you heat the front pulley and you may be able to slip it on with minimal force and get it into the right position on the shaft. I have never done it in situ but may be possible and worth a try.

cheers
Rohan