Ignition timing

PostPost by: alfert » Sat Nov 17, 2012 2:14 pm

I just reinstalled my head and am trying to get the car started.... Everything went together rather easily and all of the marks lined up just as they were when I removed the head, but it doesn't want to start. So I move the timing mark on the crank pulley to 10 deg BTC, and then need to check the distributor. That is the problem as it has electronic gin. It can only stay turned on w/o car running for 2 or 3 minutes or the module will self destruct! It is either Pertronics or Luminition.

I need to get this right quickly, so how do I hook up a meter or test light to to see if the rotor position is activating the system at 10 deg BTC?

Thanks,
Brian
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PostPost by: billwill » Sat Nov 17, 2012 2:39 pm

The usual ignition timing light is a sort of mains powered flash tube, triggered by the spark on plug 1. Either by an adaptor on the top of the plug or just by wrapping a wire around the spark lead.

Not much use to your situation.

The kit for your ignition system must have included timing instructions, if you don't have them perhaps you can find it am the manufacturers website ?
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PostPost by: billwill » Sat Nov 17, 2012 2:43 pm

When you pushed the distributor in did you check that the rotor arm is adjacent to the spark lead for cylinder 1, within the distie cap?
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PostPost by: alfert » Sat Nov 17, 2012 3:38 pm

I did not have to remove the dist. and don't think the timing chain actually came off the crank sprocket. That is why I am surprised it is not starting. It is cranking although it does just seem to stop like it is fighting itself. Feels like timing is off. By the way it is a standard engine completely stock.
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PostPost by: PeterK » Sat Nov 17, 2012 3:59 pm

Was the engine rotated at all during your head off period and any chance that the timing is now 180 degrees out ?

If possible, try swapping the plug leads as a quick test.
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PostPost by: RogerFrench » Sat Nov 17, 2012 4:36 pm

Stopping like it's fighting itself sounds like it might be too far advanced, perhaps?
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PostPost by: Quart Meg Miles » Sat Nov 17, 2012 5:53 pm

If the distributor is still standard pull off the lead from the contact breaker and connect it to one side of a spare bulb (I use the remaining half of a broken twin filament bulb) and the other side of the bulb to the battery (at the fuse box, perhaps). You now have a permanent timing light and don't need to stress the electronic box! It's certainly worth taking the cap off the dist to check that it isn't too far out.

I don't know why people electronic ignition, I've done about 250,000 miles on TC engines and rarely look at the points.
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PostPost by: twincamman » Sat Nov 17, 2012 6:33 pm

1+ TO THAT MEG points and condenser every time -----cost 6 bucks and you can set them with cardboard and scrape them off on a rock to clean them if your stuck in Wawa Ont at 2 in the morning -before the bears get you --now-------with #1 piston at TDC and rotate the crank pulley to 10 degrees remove the distributor and place it back in the block ----it will rotate to the front so pull back on the rotor to set the advance ----- with the rotor about 10 oclock pointing to the rear and slightly at the block Take # 1 plug lead and insert a plug . lay the plug on the valve cover == replace the cap --ignition on --and rotate the distributor until it sparks said plug -----your ready to start ---DO NOT allow power to go through your fancy hi tech unit for more than 5 seconds without cranking or it will fail and never start --the other approach is use an ohm meter instead of the ignition --ed
Last edited by twincamman on Sat Nov 17, 2012 11:26 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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PostPost by: bast0n » Sat Nov 17, 2012 8:08 pm

I don't know why people electronic ignition, I've done about 250,000 miles on TC engines and rarely look at the points.


In that case you are not driving hard enough!! I have needed to burnish the points after 2000 hard miles to Italy to restore performance and smooth running and the same on the way home. Since fitting Luminition - more years ago than I care to remember - no more problems........... :D
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PostPost by: robertverhey » Sat Nov 17, 2012 8:43 pm

alfert wrote:I did not have to remove the dist. and don't think the timing chain actually came off the crank sprocket. That is why I am surprised it is not starting. It is cranking although it does just seem to stop like it is fighting itself. Feels like timing is off. By the way it is a standard engine completely stock.


I'm willing to bet that your dissy turned a bit when you pulled the chain taut to install the cam sprockets. My rule is always always check dissy timing when anything relating to timing chain is disturbed......
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PostPost by: alfert » Sat Nov 17, 2012 10:14 pm

twin cam, thanks, but your post said "with number one piston at TDC and the mark on crank pulley at 10 deg advance mark".... I dont think that can happen. I assume you meant set the mark at 10 deg advance and the look into the dist. and check for rotor position.

I did that and it looks like I may have too much advance. Cant decide if I have to pull the dist or if I can just rotate it a bit(retard) and save myself the grief?

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PostPost by: elansprint71 » Sat Nov 17, 2012 10:22 pm

Quart Meg Miles wrote:If the distributor is still standard pull off the lead from the contact breaker and connect it to one side of a spare bulb (I use the remaining half of a broken twin filament bulb) and the other side of the bulb to the battery (at the fuse box, perhaps). You now have a permanent timing light and don't need to stress the electronic box! It's certainly worth taking the cap off the dist to check that it isn't too far out.

I don't know why people electronic ignition, I've done about 250,000 miles on TC engines and rarely look at the points.



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PostPost by: billwill » Sun Nov 18, 2012 12:32 am

It's possible that the layshaft sprocket is one or two teeth differently placed on the timing chain now, relative to before. This will have rotated the distie relative to TDC.

You seem to be making a mountain out of a 5 minute job. Lifting out the distributor & putting it back takes only 5 mins.



There's a description of how to set the timing of a luminition at:
http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q= ... 5pAhTgI8ww

I couldn't find one for the Petronics.

It should be easy to tell whether it is a Petronics (which has a magnetic pickup in the distie) ot a Luminition, which has an optical pickup. The latter seems to have obvious vanes which rotate in the distributor between an LED and a photo transistor in a horizontal slot.
Last edited by billwill on Wed Nov 21, 2012 2:21 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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PostPost by: twincamman » Wed Nov 21, 2012 11:53 am

Blaston ....if your points are failing that quickly you may need a new condenser..ed
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PostPost by: bast0n » Wed Nov 21, 2012 12:52 pm

Blaston ....if your points are failing that quickly you may need a new condenser..ed


Can this be me??

I don't have any condenser or points - that's the point..............Oh dear a pun - never mind eh?
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