Loosening the fan belt

PostPost by: twincamman » Sun Nov 04, 2012 4:20 am

With winter so near I loosened. The fan belts onbothT C. motors, I am convinced this prolongs the life of the water pump. Ed
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Editor: On June 12, 2020, Edward Law, AKA TwinCamMan, passed away; his obituary can be read at https://www.friscolanti.com/obituary/edward-law. He will be missed.
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PostPost by: bast0n » Sun Nov 04, 2012 9:24 am

No need to do this!!

Have a look at this thread in August 2012 for the everlasting solution of twin pulleys..........

Removable Water Pump & Front Cover Assemblies
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PostPost by: fatboyoz » Sun Nov 04, 2012 11:28 am

Ed,
The route I have followed is to replace all pulleys with Gilmer Drive (toothed) pulleys, and a toothed belt to match. The belt can be run very loose with no slippage or loss of drive to waterpump or alternator/generator. The important thing though, is that there is minimal side pressure on the waterpump bearing.
I purchased pulleys and belt from Burton Power.
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twincamman wrote:With winter so near I loosened. The fan belts onbothT C. motors, I am convinced this prolongs the life of the water pump. Ed
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PostPost by: Chancer » Sun Nov 04, 2012 2:17 pm

I understand the results of excess or even moderate drive belt tension to the water pump but where does winter enter into the equation please?
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PostPost by: types26/36 » Sun Nov 04, 2012 4:20 pm

I'd take a guess that because its winter and the car does not get used much that he doesn't want it standing with any sort of side load on the bearing for a long time ?? ......whether that helps I have no idea :roll:
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PostPost by: Quart Meg Miles » Sun Nov 04, 2012 8:44 pm

Don't slacken it in any season if you've got a dynamo unless you're not driving it, it seems to slip more than the water pump and you can quickly lose your battery charge. If you run in winter, as I do, trickle charge for half-an-hour or more before starting up from cold. It makes a big difference.

I like the sound of the toothed belt apart from the authenticity.
Last edited by Quart Meg Miles on Sun Nov 04, 2012 9:08 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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PostPost by: billwill » Sun Nov 04, 2012 9:00 pm

A stick of Rosin (?), as used to be used on the old flat fabric or leather belts of the old steam driven machinery, applied to the sides of the fanbelt, probably aids grip and allows the belt to run slacker.

I've had a stick of it here for many many years, because of our old steam era lathe.
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PostPost by: Quart Meg Miles » Sun Nov 04, 2012 9:14 pm

Good tip, Bill, I'll try some violin rosin.
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PostPost by: billwill » Sun Nov 04, 2012 9:24 pm

Quart Meg Miles wrote:Good tip, Bill, I'll try some violin rosin.


I did think to mention musical instrument rosin, but I thought it might be expensive stuff.

My steam-machine rosin bar is about 2 inches diameter and used to be about 10 inches or more long, but has now been worn down to about 5 inches.
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PostPost by: rgh0 » Sun Nov 04, 2012 9:55 pm

It is useful to note the difference in tension on the belt between a hot and cold engine. I run my belt as loose as possible when cold so it just does not slip on start up. Once the engine is hot you find the belt is much tighter and no risk of slipping at all. I suspect many people set the belt tension when cold and then it gets to tight when the engine is hot.

When the engine is cold and stationary almost no belt tension load with how i set it so no real need to remove the load during periods of non use.


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PostPost by: elancoupe » Sun Nov 04, 2012 10:03 pm

rgh0 wrote:When the engine is cold and stationary almost no belt tension load with how i set it so no real need to remove the load during periods of non use.


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+1, have always done it this way.
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PostPost by: twincamman » Mon Nov 05, 2012 4:53 am

For the cost and 3 minutes it took I feel better about doing it..With the amount of snow and salt on the roads here in winter all my cars are idle until April ..Ed
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Editor: On June 12, 2020, Edward Law, AKA TwinCamMan, passed away; his obituary can be read at https://www.friscolanti.com/obituary/edward-law. He will be missed.
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PostPost by: Chancer » Mon Nov 05, 2012 10:19 am

Aha, so its while it remains stationary then.

Not sure if static belt tension causes the water pumps to fail but I understand you doing anything that you can to avoid problems, it wont do the belt any harm either.

When water pumps fail they leak so clearly the seal, but is that as a result fo bearing failure?

I assume so as I cant see otherwise why the belt tension in the Lotus set up causes premature failure.

Whilst on the subject why is it that the Lotus set up causes such premature pump failure compared to a normal Ford kent engine, aren't the loadings similar?

Is it just that failure on an Escort or Tincorner is a relatively simple job amongst other frequent failures whereas on the the Elan its a right pig?
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PostPost by: billwill » Mon Nov 05, 2012 2:31 pm

The water-pumps can fail several ways, The seal can fail allowing coolant into the 'dry' chamber, where it in theory dribbles out of the hole under the pulley and is noticed (?) Oh, Yeah.

If it isn't noticed and the hole gets plugged with road muck, the water accumulates and gets under the inner seal of the bearing, rusts the balls and they get rattly, exaggerating the situation until it is clearly noticeable outside.

Excess side load can also wear the balls until the shaft wobbles & destroys the front seal, lets water in from the outside, which finishes off the destruction.
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PostPost by: types26/36 » Mon Nov 05, 2012 4:20 pm

Chancer wrote:Whilst on the subject why is it that the Lotus set up causes such premature pump failure compared to a normal Ford kent engine, aren't the loadings similar?


The TC engine uses the same water pump bearing as the 105E Anglia and MK1 Cortina (basically the pre Xflow engine) but the water pump bearing in the Xflow is slightly larger.
I have heard of the conversion to fit the Xflow bearing and I have been looking at boring a TC front cover to accept the larger bearing but I am not sure there is enough "meat" without some modification.
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