Sump Gaskets

[ardee_selby]

This has been prompted by a question about sumps being able to support engine weight...but what about the gaskets?

When I removed my engine assy I had no qualms about slinging under the sump, but when it was replaced I avoided it.

Having used the normal cork gaskets and carefully torqued all bolts evenly to 7 ft.lbs I didn't want the gaskets to see any additional, or uneven, compression.

Possibly unfounded but ye olde materials & design seems very sensitive to correct and even assembly. Overtightening doesn't necessarily improve sealing.

(My concern was prompted by Pinto engines developing oil leaks after being shipped across the pond. IIRC the cause was put down to how engines were supported in the containers. Not a good comparison, perhaps, but hey...)

Maybe alternative gasket materials with/without a sealant give no worries?

Cheers - Richard

[twincamman]

I use an old hot rod trick on cork and all other gaskets ----find the cheapest aluminium spray paint you can find and spray both sides of the gasket allow to almost dry and apply to the part and a fix the part to its home ---if you plan on removing the part and wish to save the gasket for reuse apply a slight application of silicon with a scraper to out side of the part ----NEVER leaks ----ed

[Chancer]

I grease all paper and cork gaskets, you never know if you may one day need to re-use them, they come off without breaking and can be re-used many times.

Will try the paint trick, what are they like to take apart?

[StressCraxx]

I use the "Right Stuff" by Permatex that comes in an aerosol can. It works great at sealing but the gaskets are done when I pull parts off.

Sounds like some great ideas for my FF valve cover gasket. I pull that every race weekend to check valve clearances.


Thanks!

[twincamman]

With a line of silicon the gasket stays in place and lifts on and off readily

[bcmc33]

This has been prompted by a question about sumps being able to support engine weight...but what about the gaskets?

When I removed my engine assy I had no qualms about slinging under the sump, but when it was replaced I avoided it.

Having used the normal cork gaskets and carefully torqued all bolts evenly to 7 ft.lbs I didn't want the gaskets to see any additional, or uneven, compression.

Possibly unfounded but ye olde materials & design seems very sensitive to correct and even assembly. Over tightening doesn't necessarily improve sealing.

(My concern was prompted by Pinto engines developing oil leaks after being shipped across the pond. II RC the cause was put down to how engines were supported in the containers. Not a good comparison, perhaps, but hey...)

Maybe alternative gasket materials with/without a sealant give no worries?

Richard,

My experience on sump gaskets is that it takes about 4 tightenings (over say 4 days) to get the cork layers to compress completely to retain the torque settings.
I coat the gaskets with a liberal amount of gasket sealer (in my case it's old fashion Wellseal) and fill the depressions in the sump flanges. Place the gaskets on the sump and then the sump on the block.
I use cap screws and lock washers for ease of application, and ongoing maintenance when the engine is in the car.

I seem to have remember something about the Pinto situation - (it's a long time ago, now), and I thought the root cause was the engine assembly sitting on the sump and compressing the gaskets over time. No gasket sealer, of course.

AAMOI, I have my old (500 mile) engine sitting sitting on the sump in my workshop. Should I ever need to use it (or sell it), I would retorque the screws.

[billwill]

Yes, I've taken to using silicone sealer on most gaskets now. I just use stuff sold for bathroom usage.