Cork or rubber

[gjz30075]

Trying to seal up a lipseal pan and I have a choice for the crank seal carriers at either end to be either cork or rubber. What do the experts like? Cork was removed, but.......

[stugilmour]

I am not sure what is better, but would like to try rubber as cork is like Exxon Valdez in the driveway. Where did you get the rubber our side of the pond? Is the other gasket available in rubber or equivalent as well?

Thx

[gjz30075]

Stu, I found some of the rubber ones in a box of gaskets I have. Origin unknown. According to the Bean catalog, the rubber is for '73 and later, but they both seem to fit in the groove in the seal carrier in the rear and front cover. I'm guessing it was realized that the cork ones weren't doing the job and the switch was made to rubber.

I pulled cork ones from my leaker and sounds like you have the same issue.

Greg Z

[stugilmour]

Thanks for that Greg. I will check with Beans & Ray.

I may have got it wrong, but I think I saw a post a while ago indicating some rubber gasket sets for the Ford X-flow from over the pond, but wasn't sure about fitment as some trimming was required Figured this was a bit complex for me if I can`t get a seal with stock parts! One thing I have done is convert to socket head screws (Allen key tightening), as recommended by Rohan, which makes access a heck of a lot easier for adjusting fastener torque as the gasket crushes down and seats over time. Alas, I think I over tightened things a bit, but the leaking from the rear seal is horrendous.

[mr.vman]

Stu,
The rubber oil pan end seals come in Felpro oil pan gasket sets. The pan rail gaskets are still cork. AutoZone, your local parts jobber or online sources list the gaskets (in the USA). Try, 1970-1974 Ford Pinto, 1.6L. Same gaskets also fit the Cortina of those years. I think Pegasus Racing has the pan rail gaskets made of fiber not cork. My rear main was also leaking. The spring that applies pressure to the lips on the rear seal, had removed itself! Engine is now out, replacing the rear main seal and pan gaskets. The spring falling out of the of the rear main seal is new to me, first time this has happened to me. What is next on this car? Hope this helps. By the way, how was the drive back from LOG? Steve V. +2 in Arizona

[stugilmour]

Stu,
...Hope this helps. By the way, how was the drive back from LOG? Steve V. +2 in Arizona

Big help Steve. I just posted a link to a trip write-up here on your old LOG31 thread:

post155315.html#p155315

Cheers!

[andyelan]

Hi Everyone

Rubber seals for the Twin Cam do exist (these are what are fitted in my Plus 2) but I've not been able to source any replacements here in the UK.
Although the Ford X-Flow gasket kits come with rubber seals these, although similar, will not fit the Twin Cam

Regards
Andy

[mr.vman]

Will this work?
I have a set of, "Felpro" gaskets for the oil pan, rear main seal and seal retainer. I placed the rubber ends in place and lowered the pan, appears they might work. Some way of holding the end seals in position might need to be used. Gasket adhesive? The rubber seals want to slip out of place.
Felpro; BS 16071 (rear main bearing set, contains the seal and gasket).
Felpro: OS 30254 C (oil pan rail cork gaskets).
Not having tried these gaskets, I don't know if they will work. I am going to give them a try this weekend. Steve V. +2 in Arizona

[bcmc33]

I've used rubber on my tall block (1700) engine as they're readily available. If you have them for a Twink - use them.

[gjz30075]

More infor, for those looking:
elan-f15/sump-seals-t14855.html

[gjz30075]

Well, as I asked in my original post as to using cork or rubber, and looking at the previously posted thread, I discover that I really don't have a choice. The answer depends on what rear seal carrier I have. I have the one on the right. No wonder the rubber seal doesn't fit! I plan to clean up the one on the left (which I found in my cache) and use it so I can use the rubber seal. Cork will have to remain in the front but it wasn't leaking there, so no worries.

[AussieJohn]

The wide grooved carrier is a crossflow one [ probably marked 711m ] and will do the job nicely, I still had to cut the edges down on the front one to get it to fit; the good sump gasket sets are "competition crossflow sump set" available from Burtons.

[gjz30075]

It's actually marked 681F and its mounting holes are a bit larger than the one on the right so I just have to be careful and be sure the seal is centered on the crank.

Aussie.. are you saying you used the rubber seal in the front cover, after cutting the edges of the seal down?

Greg Z

p.s. - I assume you're happy with the sealing of the pan?

[elancoupe]

This is all good info - Thanks guys. I have both rubber and cork end seals, as well as the fiber side gaskets, in anticipation of resealing my pan.

The rubber ones do not look like they will fit the TC groove, and 'fettling" them seems dodgy. It seems like the cork end seals are a must for the regular TC carrier.

[AussieJohn]

Hi Greg, you only have to trim the small lip either side of the seal to make it fit the bottom of the timing chest, others I know use this with success, my own experience is 15 miles on a newly built engine so a bit early for me to draw any conclusions but any way to get rid of the cork seems the only way to go.