Heater adjustment

PostPost by: blueseamonkey » Sat Nov 05, 2005 11:01 pm

One of the many jobs to do on my +2 is fixing the heater. The fans work very well, but I never get any hot air, just cold. I'm suspecting it might just be a case of adjusting the cables from the control sliders.
Looking at the workshop manual, it says removing the dash is the way to do this. However, this looks a long and difficult job I was hoping to save until I can afford a shiny new dash without cracks. Does anyone know of a way to adjust the cable without taking the dash off?
Just hoping to get this sorted before winter sets in, more for the demisting side of things although not having to wear a hat and coat for driving would be a bonus!
Thanks in advance
Rick
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PostPost by: chrishewett » Sat Nov 05, 2005 11:14 pm

I had a problem with no hot air. I discovered that I was not getting any hot water through the matrix. I was worried that the matrix was shot as I have been told it is about 40 hours to change it. I filled the system with radflush and spent some time flushing it out with a hosepipe. Having got rid of the residue of many years I now have an efficient heater and no leaks( touch wood).
You may have a similar, easily fixed problem.
Chris
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PostPost by: berni29 » Sun Nov 06, 2005 12:11 am

I agree with Chris. If the fan is blowing air into the box you would be getting some heat out even if all the controls were set to off and cold. In my opinion that is. Either the matrix is blocked or you are not getting hot water to it. More investigation required before dash out.

I have replaced the hearter before (change the martix for a modern aluminium one out of a fiesta same outlets slides right in) and it is a pig. Replace the dashboard at the same time if it comes to it.

Berni
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PostPost by: JJDraper » Sun Nov 06, 2005 12:38 am

When I changed the heater on my +2 (fan failed, 2nd Hand replacement unit) I found the pipes from the engine both (flow and return) had metal spirals inside the rubber tubing, making it kink and crush resisitant. I have not seen this in any of the manuals, but it seemed llike a good idea to me, so I kept them. Without them, the pipework looked like it would kink easily, given the long runs. Anyone else come across this?

40 hours seems like a long time to replace the heater, although the head was off at the same time when I did my heater.....

Jeremy
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PostPost by: tdafforn » Sun Nov 06, 2005 9:19 pm

Do you want to swap..
I have a heater that changes temperature really well, but the fan doesn't work at all..
no looking forwards to taking the dash off
Cheers
Tim
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PostPost by: berni29 » Mon Nov 07, 2005 2:11 am

Hi Tim

It could be that the fan has siezed up. I got mine going once by bending a clothes hangar and working it through the ventilation aperature (outside the car below the windscreen take the grille off first) and turning the fan to free it off. Depending on how patient you are you might even be able to get oil on the spindle. Once freed off mine was OK. Easier than having to take the dash out, although I did end up doing that anyway to change the matrix at a later date. I wonder if there is a better motor available off a modern car to improve heater performance?

Berni
Zetec+ 2 under const, also 130S. And another 130S for complete restoration. Previously Racing green +2s with green tints. Yellow +2 and a couple of others, all missed. Great to be back 04/11/2021 although its all starting to get a bit out of control.
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PostPost by: tdafforn » Mon Nov 07, 2005 11:55 am

Thanks for the tip,
I'll have a go
Cheers
Tim
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PostPost by: elansprint71 » Mon Nov 07, 2005 7:30 pm

I got some of the hose with the spiral wire from Demon Tweeks in the UK, it is blue silicon type and I fitted it without removing the dash on my Sprint, just removed the (dead) radio and under-dash trims. Don't know how this works for +2 ;-).

Both my +0 Elans have been plagued by air-locks in the "heater" system, the heater being the highest point of the system, and there being no bleed(ing) facility. I now have a fully pressurised system, including expansion tank, this seems to work OK. Also got rid of that horrible heater valve and fitted a hidden ball-type valve in the cockpit- can just reach it from driver's seat.

Cheers,
Pete
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