Timing case gasket

[collins_dan]

I had a fairly significant oil leak at the left front corner of the engine, where the timing case, cylinder head and block all come together. When I pulled off the camshaft cover, all the head bolts were correctly torqued, but the timing case bolts were at least half a turn loose. I tightened them to spec and then noticed that the gasket was protruding into the timing case. I carefully cut off the protrusion and removed it, so basically the gasket is now c-shaped, just the sides and front. I put the camshaft cover back on and drove the car and the leak is the same or worse and the timing case gasket seems to be pushing out the front a bit more. I think tightening the bolts just squeezed it out, instead of compressing it further. I really hate to pull the head, but do I have a choice? How many hours does it take? I'm at a bit of low point. It seems like I keep trying to fix something rather small and it causes a worse problem. It's summer, I just want to drive the car! Thanks. Dan

[alexblack13]

Hi Dan,
Don't despair my friend it is not too big a deal to fix. in terms of hours I would suggest an unrushed 8 hrs approx. Best over a couple of days. Off one day back on the next. There have been many discussions about migrating gaskets and how to prevent that happening with lots of superb ideas and methods mentioned. From gluing the gasket to one of the surfaces and wellsealing the other,to the excellent suggestion of making a gasket from silicone rtv gasket maker etc. Basically you takes your choice of the ideas and go for it. I once did the instant gasket thing and sat the nice cleaned head down on top.Left it overnight to go off then carefully and gently tightened the bolts a little. Applying recommended torque to the casing fasteners just ejected the gasket etc so I just nipped them up with some thread sealer on them. That held for quite some time, so its one of the methods I would use again. But.. So is gluing the thing to the timing case. Pref with some silicone again but whatever takes your fancy. One of the guys uses Evostick. A coat of silicone over the top then on with the head.

But as I said whatever method you use is up to you. chose the one you think will do the job the best and go for it.

I would do a comp'/leakdown test before stripping in case you need any valve work done etc and set the valve clearances when you have the head on the kitchen table....Err I mean 'bench'..

Have fun mate.. And keep us posted.

Alex B....

[rgh0]

I have had leaks in this location on occassion and sealed them buy pushing an epoxy putty into the join area without dismantling as a temporay fix until the next need for a rebuild.

I currently have a crack in the front cover of may race eingine in my Elan and have sealed it this way until I get a replacement engine built. Unfortunately earning a living, keeping the family happy and racing the Elan keeps getting in the way of my engine building projects currently

If the leak is from the high pressure paasage from block to head the sealing this way will not work but if its a leak through the join from the non pressurised spaces then it may.

cheers
Rohan

[collins_dan]

Thanks both for the support and suggestions. I like the idea of a temporary fix. It's certainly worth a try. I need to pull the header and water temp sender off this winter anyways, which would make me about half way there anyways. What is epoxy putty? Any brand suggestions? I seem to remember tubes of it next to the rtv sealant at the local auto parts store. Thanks again, Dan

[rgh0]

It comes as 2 part putty that you Kneed together. Typically sold as a sealant for fuel tanks. Also comes with a steel fibre filled epoxy for building up castings that have corroded.

The current pack I have goes under trade name off - "QUICKSTEEL"

regards
Rohan