How to renew oilpangaskets without engine change

PostPost by: lotusdonki » Sat Dec 26, 2009 12:03 pm

After fixing a new crank before 300 miles oil comes out from the bellhousing in this 6-bolt engine, may be I have had to much oil (millers 10/60) in the motor!
Like to change the rear cork pan gasket again, but without doing the engine from the car.

Has anyone a real instruction which works?
Do I have to use silikon or not an which one?
Found an older instruction where on have to put the rear square gasket peace overnight in water to make it smooth.

Like to do this work in the next months, so it?s time to clear.
Thanks :roll: :idea:
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PostPost by: Foxie » Sun Dec 27, 2009 7:15 pm

lotusdonki wrote:After fixing a new crank before 300 miles oil comes out from the bellhousing in this 6-bolt engine, may be I have had to much oil (millers 10/60) in the motor!
Like to change the rear cork pan gasket again, but without doing the engine from the car.
.
It also very possibly may not be the sump gasket, but the rear crankshaft oil seal. I had my crankshaft done last year, and replaced with a new rear oil seal. I was losing a litre every 20 miles. Engine out, no apparant damage to the seal, but replaced it anyway, now oil-tight :mrgreen:

After many years using Hermetite/Wellseal/Hylomar, I've started using Elring No. 705.707 DIRKO. Perfect seal, but puts up a good fight when opening up again !
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PostPost by: terryp » Sun Dec 27, 2009 8:35 pm

Sean Murray wrote: now oil-tight :mrgreen:



:mrgreen: :mrgreen: :mrgreen: :mrgreen: :mrgreen: :mrgreen: :mrgreen:
I wish mine was!

Terry
PS Sean did you ever get your car details from the DVLA?
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PostPost by: Foxie » Mon Dec 28, 2009 12:04 pm

terryp wrote: PS Sean did you ever get your car details from the DVLA?


Not yet ! I printed out and filled in the form, but never sent it in, it's lost in my filing system somewhere :roll:

Thanks for the reminder, I'll do it first thing in the New Year :mrgreen:
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PostPost by: lotusdonki » Mon Dec 28, 2009 5:37 pm

Sean Murray wrote:
lotusdonki wrote:After fixing a new crank before 300 miles oil comes out from the bellhousing in this 6-bolt engine, may be I have had to much oil (millers 10/60) in the motor!
Like to change the rear cork pan gasket again, but without doing the engine from the car.
.
It also very possibly may not be the sump gasket, but the rear crankshaft oil seal. I had my crankshaft done last year, and replaced with a new rear oil seal. I was losing a litre every 20 miles. Engine out, no apparant damage to the seal, but replaced it anyway, now oil-tight :mrgreen:

After many years using Hermetite/Wellseal/Hylomar, I've started using Elring No. 705.707 DIRKO. Perfect seal, but puts up a good fight when opening up again !



Dear Sean,
the crank problem by this engine was before when I bought it in Donington as total overhauled from people who told me before, that they work an TC and BDA for over 25 years
and have this engine made for herself and now over for sale.
After little driving it, oil comes out (used 20W50 Valvoline Racing) and more and more.
The workshop put the engine out and found out, the rear crank seal was total damaged from the rusty rear end of the crank.
One could not machine the rear from the rust any more, because a new seal then would not fit.
So I got a another crank machined +20 with perfect rear end and new sealing.

Hope now first it is not this new seal, so I think about changing the rear oil cork gasket (was also renewed before 500 km).

Which sealing compound should I use for this cork in the oil pan?

Would not fix the engine out yet, like first to try / change the cork.

Thanks for help. :shock:
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PostPost by: Foxie » Mon Dec 28, 2009 6:29 pm

lotusdonki wrote:
Which sealing compound should I use for this cork in the oil pan?

Would not fix the engine out yet, like first to try / change the cork.

Thanks for help. :shock:


Elring No. 705.707 DIRKO. (Made in Germany) Only fit the cork strips to the slots in the seal carriers, using the sealant. Use the sealant directly on the sump flanges.

Might save an engine-out :D
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PostPost by: lotusdonki » Mon Dec 28, 2009 6:45 pm

Sean Murray wrote:
lotusdonki wrote:
Which sealing compound should I use for this cork in the oil pan?

Would not fix the engine out yet, like first to try / change the cork.

Thanks for help. :shock:


Elring No. 705.707 DIRKO. (Made in Germany) Only fit the cork strips to the slots in the seal carriers, using the sealant. Use the sealant directly on the sump flanges.

Might save an engine-out :D



Sear Sean,
ok I?ll do it, but do I have also to smear the Dirko to the top of the cork ?
Thanks you. :lol:
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PostPost by: Foxie » Tue Dec 29, 2009 3:14 am

lotusdonki wrote:
Sear Sean,
ok I?ll do it, but do I have also to smear the Dirko to the top of the cork ?
Thanks you. :lol:


On the crankshaft seal castings: Dirko sealant under and over the cork seal strips. No cork on the sump flanges, just Dirko sealant.
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